Should i spray anything?

carguy300

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I got my new engine compartment harness for my 300. Is there any kind of grease or protectant that i should apply to the bulkhead connection when i install the new plugend assembly?
 
I got my new engine compartment harness for my 300. Is there any kind of grease or protectant that i should apply to the bulkhead connection when i install the new plugend assembly?
The bulk head connector usually has a rubber gasket to keep water out, the gasket should be replaced when replacing the connector. Some models also had a plastic shield above the connector to deflect road splash, be sure that is in place. I am not a big fan of putting a lot of gunk on connectors because at some point the connector may need to come apart and all that stuff has to be cleaned off. If you are going to use anything, use some WD 40. WD does a pretty good job of displacing moisture.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. I was thinking WD40, just wanted another opinion. I have not unplugged the old one yet to see about the rubber gasket but i will ck it for sure.
 
I would first clean the connections with denatured alcohol and pipe cleaners. I personally would not use WD-40, but that's just my opinion.

After cleaning I agree with dielectric grease, a little goes a long way.
 
Dielectric grease on ALL connections..
boab september 2017 004.JPG

boab september 2017 002.JPG
 
I agree use only dielectric grease. Years ago I took a gunsmith course and we talked about using WD40. We were discouraged from using it entirely and since then I have only used it infrequently when nothing else was available. It temporarily helps but is not for long term usage.
Dielectric grease is designed for this type of application and you don’t require much.
 
Not a fan of dielectric grease myself. IMHO, most people use it incorrectly. The word "dielectric" roughly means "insulator". Look it up...

What I do is to clean the contacts with De-Oxit. It cleans and helps protect the connectors. This bottle will last you years.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-Labor...=sr_1_6?keywords=deoxit&qid=1578877024&sr=8-6


If you want to use dielectric grease, the correct way is to coat the outside of the insulator where it plugs into the connector to seal the connections.
 
Not a fan of dielectric grease myself. IMHO, most people use it incorrectly. The word "dielectric" roughly means "insulator". Look it up...

What I do is to clean the contacts with De-Oxit. It cleans and helps protect the connectors. This bottle will last you years.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-Labor...=sr_1_6?keywords=deoxit&qid=1578877024&sr=8-6


If you want to use dielectric grease, the correct way is to coat the outside of the insulator where it plugs into the connector to seal the connections.

I'm with Big John on this. De-Oxit is the way to go. It will clean any corrosion that is present and prevent future corrosion. This is by far the way to go. We use it on all of the high voltage grounds of dissimilar metals on our products, high voltage I mean lightning strikes.
 
Not a fan of dielectric grease myself. IMHO, most people use it incorrectly. The word "dielectric" roughly means "insulator". Look it up...

What I do is to clean the contacts with De-Oxit. It cleans and helps protect the connectors. This bottle will last you years.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-Labor...=sr_1_6?keywords=deoxit&qid=1578877024&sr=8-6


If you want to use dielectric grease, the correct way is to coat the outside of the insulator where it plugs into the connector to seal the connections.

DeOxit is the best sh*t there is for cleaning electronics and contacts. I’ve seen it resurrect pots that I thought were done for. Not sure how it would work for keeping moisture out in harsh automotive applications. I like dielectric grease myself.
 
Not a fan of dielectric grease myself. IMHO, most people use it incorrectly. The word "dielectric" roughly means "insulator". Look it up...

What I do is to clean the contacts with De-Oxit. It cleans and helps protect the connectors. This bottle will last you years.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-Labor...=sr_1_6?keywords=deoxit&qid=1578877024&sr=8-6


If you want to use dielectric grease, the correct way is to coat the outside of the insulator where it plugs into the connector to seal the connections.

Bingo !!!

This is one our biggest problems w big gen sets at crushers sites. The powdery nonconductive material gets into those connections & the grease only exacerbates the situation. We’ve brought “I’m done write it off” gen sets back to life w just a good cleaning. I know cars aren’t usually in that kind of stuff but if you’re living in a fairly dry area I’d skip it. Just my 2 cents (and tens of thousands of customer dollars into our shop’s coffers Lol!!!)...
 
This is why i love this place! All the imput. Can i get this De-Oxit at any of the parts houses? I have never heard of it.
 
This is why i love this place! All the imput. Can i get this De-Oxit at any of the parts houses? I have never heard of it.
Big John posted an Amazon link. I buy mine from Amazon. If Radio Shack still existed they would probably sell it, or an Archer branded version :)
 
I ckd out the site, was just hoping i could pick some up local. My car has been down a month waiting on parts and i'm missing out on warm texas driving time!
 
I ckd out the site, was just hoping i could pick some up local. My car has been down a month waiting on parts and i'm missing out on warm texas driving time!

I feel you. My Fury is down a week now and wife wants her basement garage back.

Amazon ships pretty quick. 2-3 days?
 
Rather than using WD-40 to spray the exterior of the connectors, what about some of the new silica dioxide paint protectants (see YouTube videos)? I concur on making sure any OEM gaskets are replaced with new ones. Might do a test fit to make sure all of the connections will be firm and tight when in the car.

My machine shop operative used to use WD-40 was a protectant on freshly honed blocks and such. When I tried it in my shop, light surface rust happened. So any protection probably evaporates over time. By observation, dielectric silicone will become waxy-looking and dry out over time, as it might also shrink a bit, too.

I suspect that if you put everything back "dry" to OEM specs, with new gaskets and such, you'll have a good 20 years or so before any problems might surface? Sometimes in trying to make things better, other issues are created also. Your judgment call.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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