Aftermarket disc brake kit

mag162

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Need to add Disc brakes up front to my 67 BB Wagon.
Is there a goto kit that you guys have used?
 
There are several threads about the subject on the forum it’s easy to do a search and read up about it. Many , many members here swapped over to the 73 disc brake set up and I highly recommend the same due to cost and consumable parts availability.Good Luck and post some pictures.
 
From the photo, that looks like a great Fury wagon. I can tell you personally that sticking with "strictly stock" disc brake set-up is an expensive/exhaustive proposition for a '66 - '68 C-body. From Budd calipers, to rotors, to those $#*& D-10 pads, it isn't easy. I have managed to stockpile a few replacements for what I have, but it has taken YEARS to find, and I started ages ago when parts weren't so expensive. Good luck with the conversion project, and feel free to post photos. Can anyone tell me what BB wagon stands for?
 
From the photo, that looks like a great Fury wagon. I can tell you personally that sticking with "strictly stock" disc brake set-up is an expensive/exhaustive proposition for a '66 - '68 C-body. From Budd calipers, to rotors, to those $#*& D-10 pads, it isn't easy. I have managed to stockpile a few replacements for what I have, but it has taken YEARS to find, and I started ages ago when parts weren't so expensive. Good luck with the conversion project, and feel free to post photos. Can anyone tell me what BB wagon stands for?

The only reason to go with Budd discs is if it's a concours restoration. 69-73 disc is the only practical way to go for any drum to disc conversion for a C-Body.

If you have a 66-68 C with Budd discs and you aren't OCD about originality and actually drive the car, you just change the lower ball joints and then the 69-73 spindles and stuff bolts on.

Kevin
 
Nah this is not a concours restoration at all far from it. This is a great driving 67 fury wagon with a worked 440 that I’d feel much safer if it had disc brakes.
 
I went with a Willwood kit, I don't put on many street miles, but the kit was well thought out, nice parts.
Stops well from high speeds with no fading.
 
I went with a Willwood kit, I don't put on many street miles, but the kit was well thought out, nice parts.
Stops well from high speeds with no fading.
Was it Bolt on or did you have to change the spindles? Do you have any more information about it?
 
i used ECI brakes. bolt on. love it. 2nd cheapest to scarebird as far as price.
like said above ^^ its all posted up and documented here in the forums.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
I can say that the Willwood kit bolts up real easy and slides right onto the drum spindle. I cant speak of their stopping capabilities, because I'm building the engine and trans right now.
 
Hi Fellas,
Where we can here in the Mystical Land of Aus, we use the 69-72 Disc Assemblies to convert our 65-68 Phoenix's.
I have always loved the Single Piston Floating Caliper Setup. The Harder you Press the Quicker you STOP!. Brilliant Brakes for a Big Car. I had an 80yo Club Member whose reactions were starting to slow a little, so I convinced him to go to Discs. Very shortly afterwards, while out Driving with him, a young bloke in a motorised Rollerskate decided to cut him off. Apart from having to wonder 30 yards down the road to pickup my false teeth there was no Problem whatsoever!
A Very Worthwhile Conversion & I assume Reasonably Economical for you Fellas, Tony.M
 
Thanks for the thread.
After a bunch of research (scarebird, Leed, PST, scavenging parts, etc) y'all have convinced me to go with a Wilwood kit from PST and 15x7 wheels.
Yes it's a bit more expensive but with the 10% discount and free shipping it's a little less than Leed.
1967 Plymouth Fury III (Arizona car, second owner) - rebuild in progress.
 
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