intake and 4 barrel carb options for 70 newport?

BAD69FURY

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Looking to upgrade my 70 newport with an edelbrock 4 barrel carb and matching intake.

Anyone done this already? what carb and intake should I get? part numbers?

my 1970 newport has a stock 383 motor

thanks
Mike
 
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Mike, nice car. I’m a sucker for the hard tops. The Edelbrock #’s you’re looking for are carb-1406 intake-2186 I’ll have to look, but I’m pretty sure I have a 1406 that I could rebuild or restore for you. It would save you dough. PM me if interested.
 
Looking to upgrade my 70 newport with an edelbrock 4 barrel carb and matching intake.

Anyone done this already? what carb and intake should I get? part numbers?

my 1970 newport has a stock 383 motor

thanks
Mike

The other choice if you want to keep a more stock appearance, would be a factory cast iron manifold with an AVS carter. The '70 383 with 2BBL had a lower compression ratio than the 4BBL versions but you should still get a performance boost.

Dave
 

That's a really nice clean car! The intake and carb are the easy parts. It's the fuel line, choke and transmission kickdown parts you'll need to get right. My brother had a similar situation on a '68, he used an Edelbrock DP4B (if your car has A/C, you'll lose an A/C brace w/ the DP4B) and an OEM Holley 4 bbl, don't recall what it was from anymore. And a roadrunner air cleaner without the pie pan, those were easy to come by in the mid seventies.

If you use an older AFB, remember the air horn is smaller than the AVS, Thermoquad, Quadrajet standard 5.1/8", 4.7/16" for the older AFB if memory serves.
 
2186 intake with 750CFM Eddy carb. 68 383 Newport Custom
My car was a 2bbl car.
For a stock look I grounded off the Edelbrock name off the intake and painted engine color,and use a factory 4bbl air cleaner.

You can get away using the 2bbl throttle cable but can use a slant six cable from any Mopar (it is longer) or the correct 4bbl throttle cable.
I did install the correct 4bbl trans kickdown linkage and adjusted it accordingly.

Get a carb with electric choke.
Use the switched side of the ballast resistor (blue wire) to power the choke up.
With electric choke,the exhaust heat crossover passage is not needed so I recommend blocking it when installing the turkey pan and intake. Reason is keep the temps down at the base of carb to eliminate fuel perculation.

Make sure you get the throttle adapter for the carb to work on Mopars.

Hope this helps.
boab 2018 006.JPG
 
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I used the Edelbrock Performer Intake on my '70 with a 440. Added a 750 cfm Eddy carb; runs good. Although, I would not run a 750 on a 383.

Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds 2186

Snotty,you are right to a certain point.
It is just a matter of matching the right components that will work well togther.
For example;
On the 66 300 383 4bbl car that I revived,I used a 625 CFM carb since the motor retained its stock bore and cam,lo-po exhaust manifolds,with TTI system, and stock torque convertor with 2.76 gears and 14 inch tires 26 inches tall.

On the BoaB,I am running a 750 which works very wellon my .40 over-bored 383 with the 268 H Comp Cams, the mild headwork done on the 906 heads,HP manifolds,TTi system,2.94 gears and mild stall in convertor,and 28 inch tall 15 inch tires.

Both cars perform very well since both were well thought out before the work was done. Both are perfect highway cars but the BoaB has quicker acceleration obviously.

A 750 can be tuned to run on a stock lo-po 383 since Ma used 800/850CFM Thermoquads on low compression 400/440's,LOL
Regardless of what set-up is used,the fine tuning is where itt will make a huge difference.
Throwing parts at it can make improvements--fine tuning will Make it work!!
Cheers.

20190504_170113_resized.jpg
 
750 Edelbrock/800 Thermo quad
Apples/Oranges
 
I run an 800 CFM Thermoquad on my 73 Satelitte wagon's 318!
Runs great! Pulls hard!
Yet when driven properly I can get 24 MPG thanks to the smaller primary jets.
20191020_134729.jpg
 
Snotty,you are right to a certain point.
It is just a matter of matching the right components that will work well togther.
For example;
On the 66 300 383 4bbl car that I revived,I used a 625 CFM carb since the motor retained its stock bore and cam,lo-po exhaust manifolds,with TTI system, and stock torque convertor with 2.76 gears and 14 inch tires 26 inches tall.

On the BoaB,I am running a 750 which works very wellon my .40 over-bored 383 with the 268 H Comp Cams, the mild headwork done on the 906 heads,HP manifolds,TTi system,2.94 gears and mild stall in convertor,and 28 inch tall 15 inch tires.

Both cars perform very well since both were well thought out before the work was done. Both are perfect highway cars but the BoaB has quicker acceleration obviously.

A 750 can be tuned to run on a stock lo-po 383 since Ma used 800/850CFM Thermoquads on low compression 400/440's,LOL
Regardless of what set-up is used,the fine tuning is where itt will make a huge difference.
Throwing parts at it can make improvements--fine tuning will Make it work!!
Cheers.

View attachment 346788
I would point out that in your modified motor you're using the larger CFM Carb. I still wouldn't on a stock 383.

I am using one on the AMC 401 we built for the Gremlin. However, like the 383 you describe for the BoaB, it is not stock: .030 over, Isky 270 cam, 9.5:1 Speed-Pro pistons, Eddy Performer intake, Hedman Hedders, electronic ignition.
 
I would point out that in your modified motor you're using the larger CFM Carb. I still wouldn't on a stock 383.
Which is why I used a smaller Eddy carb on the stock 383 in the 66 300.
We are on the same page,LoL
 
2186 intake with 750CFM Eddy carb. 68 383 Newport Custom
My car was a 2bbl car.
For a stock look I grounded off the Edelbrock name off the intake and painted engine color,and use a factory 4bbl air cleaner.

You can get away using the 2bbl throttle cable but can use a slant six cable from any Mopar (it is longer) or the correct 4bbl throttle cable.
I did install the correct 4bbl trans kickdown linkage and adjusted it accordingly.

Get a carb with electric choke.
Use the switched side of the ballast resistor (blue wire) to power the choke up.
With electric choke,the exhaust heat crossover passage is not needed so I recommend blocking it when installing the turkey pan and intake. Reason is keep the temps down at the base of carb to eliminate fuel perculation.

Make sure you get the throttle adapter for the carb to work on Mopars.

Hope this helps.
View attachment 346723

Hey cbarge, was going through some of my old posts. I recently rebuilt my 383 engine from my 70 chrysler newport and changed my intake to a #2186 edelbrock and changed from the stock 2 bbl to a 4bbl edelbrock #1406. I need help sorting out the kickdown linkage situation. I did buy this one, what do you think? its from a Mopar 440 4BRL Passing Gear Kick Down Linkage Set B E Body Coronet Charger



heres a link to where my latest discussion is: “Jackie Blue” will get a fresh engine rebuild!

Also if I could get some close up pictures of you linkages to your carb and to kickdown area would be helpful. Thanks In advance!
Bad69fury
C295E822-6C95-4C4B-96C6-0EC1BBCBA7DD.jpeg
s-l1600.jpg
B46DBFDB-D7D8-4161-A7CD-9F177490F35E.jpeg
 
Hey cbarge, was going through some of my old posts. I recently rebuilt my 383 engine from my 70 chrysler newport and changed my intake to a #2186 edelbrock and changed from the stock 2 bbl to a 4bbl edelbrock #1406. I need help sorting out the kickdown linkage situation. I did buy this one, what do you think? its from a Mopar 440 4BRL Passing Gear Kick Down Linkage Set B E Body Coronet Charger



heres a link to where my latest discussion is: “Jackie Blue” will get a fresh engine rebuild!

Also if I could get some close up pictures of you linkages to your carb and to kickdown area would be helpful. Thanks In advance!
Bad69fury View attachment 412605 View attachment 412603 View attachment 412604
My kickdown is the period correct 3 piece rods. So pics will not help you.
The kickdown set up you bought is for later model cars.
Nothing wrong with your set up,it makes adjustments easier.
Just make sure you have the rest of the matching linkage from the trans to the new rod.
Hope this helps.
 
My kickdown is the period correct 3 piece rods. So pics will not help you.
The kickdown set up you bought is for later model cars.
Nothing wrong with your set up,it makes adjustments easier.
Just make sure you have the rest of the matching linkage from the trans to the new rod.
Hope this helps.

Oh but there is. There's not enough room from engine to firewall on a slabside to use the fusie linkage.
 
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