WANTED Drivers side frame rail for 1966 Chrysler

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Right, the front driver side frame rail and transmission crossmember are the only parts of the stub frame compromised, as far as I can tell. Pity is that is just the rearmost 24" of the rail and the left corner of the X-member.
Most folks will replace the sub frame as a unit rather than try patch a bad one. It's really quite easy and there's several threads on here showing how it's done. And when c body folks talk "frame rail" they speak of the rear rails as shown in earlier photos, not the sub frame, I was reading between the lines to figure out what you wanted.
 
Most folks will replace the sub frame as a unit rather than try patch a bad one. It's really quite easy and there's several threads on here showing how it's done. And when c body folks talk "frame rail" they speak of the rear rails as shown in earlier photos, not the sub frame, I was reading between the lines to figure out what you wanted.

I well might have to replace the whole thing then, despite the relatively confined nature of the corrosion. For now, I think I can brace the rotten corner with 2.5" square steel tubing of 1/8" steel. (Thought at first it was 3/16" but after cleaning it up a little on the ends, I re-measured the thickness at 125 thousandths. Still good stuff!) This and a good bit of 1 5/8" channel strut and some 1/2" x13 bolts will hold the corner firmly square and support the crossmember, which is what that front frame rail is for at that part. The crossmember firms up before the arch for the left exhaust tube, so my torsion bar and tranny will still be supported well once the repair is complete.

This should buy me time for replacing the entire stub frame. I agree it doesn't look to be TOO involved a job. I WILL read every bit of relevant lore on this forum, rest assured.
 
My front stub frame on my '68 300 was rotted in the same place. Someone told me that they all rotted there. Something about the battery leaking down into the frame and collecting in that rear corner.
 
My front stub frame on my '68 300 was rotted in the same place. Someone told me that they all rotted there. Something about the battery leaking down into the frame and collecting in that rear corner.

That makes GOOD sense! The deposits of SOME mineral inside the sheetmetal certainly came from a non-ferrous source. Think I'll use a good plastic battery box up front to eliminate that source of grief.

I'm pretty happy with the material I've put together to repair that corner. Channel strut can reinforce the crossmember, while the 2.5" square tubing will do nicely on the frame rail itself. I plan to cut away the rubbish on the bottom at least a foot up, which has very little strength, then clean out the inside of the rail and paint/coat it well before introducing the square tube. This can then be fastened to the frame rail and crossmember with several 1/2" bolts, L brackets, straight brackets et al to insure that both crossmember and frame rail maintain their proper exact positions and bear their loads and torques at least as well as the original 14 gauge sheetmetal frame did.

This should buy me enough time to prepare a replacement stub frame, to be installed when the engine gets swapped. That shouldn't occur for several years yet, as that 383 still holds its fluids in all the proper places, including the cylinders. Heads may have to be pulled, worked over or just replaced but I think the motor is pretty sound yet.

If I see a really compellingly good deal, we plan to purchase it, then save it until ready to install, given the confined nature of the corrosion, horrible though that is.
 
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