old grumpy men in hats - whats a wet turbo gonna do? am i gonna die?

"The "style" of turbo has nothing to do with whether or not an intercooler/charge cooler is in the circuit between the turbo and the engine." - CBODY67


so YOU'RE the guy that blew up at the track???


you CANT INTERCOOL a drawthru turbo stop saying that your gonna blow someone up.
 
Y'all overthinking it.

Universal-Car-Electric-Turbine-Power-Turbo-Charger-Tan-Boost-Air-Intake-Fan-12V.jpg_640x640q70.jpg
 
Late to the party but...
The draw through seemed to have serious lag problems and fuel suspension/ puddling problems at lower speeds, at least that is what the scuttle butt was when I asked about them.
It would be different yea, but damn dude, you really want to cut a hood?
LS swap it , be different.
 
well I'm late to this party, tho I see everyone crapped in their pants in the meantime...

Draw thru has lots of daily driver problems like icing in colder weather. Limited power potential. It has some alluring aspects to the beginner but from who I've talked to that have ran one (just one guy, a draw thru Pinto), it was not the bees knees.

Blow through carb can be made to work, especially for racing. Definitely more work for the street to get power enrichment circuits correct as well as enough fuel at WOT. Several companies offer 'blow thru carbs' now or you can google 'hangar 18 mod' to do it yourself.

EZ way these days is the newer crop of TBI systems that can handle boost. When I did mine in 2009, there was no such thing. Most guys don't really need MPI (giving individual cylinder spark and fuel trimming), they just need a computer controlling the fuel and timing maps.

Even back in 2007-8 when I was shopping for my EFI, I decided it was worth the coin vs trying a BT carb.

Herb's book is good. Corky Bell's Maximum Boost is another staple to understand how to build a DIY system rather than bolt on a kit (very few for mopars anyway).

You don't need forged pistons, coatings, or any of that nonsense at 'hobby' power levels. I've applied 12psi to a stock 383 and it was happy (even though I had thought I hurt it last fall after a decade I hadn't).

Take it for what you will from a guy who's built one and had it survive.
 
naysayers...
20200201_131223.jpg

for you old people that cant see, it says 13.3 on the chingadera

tilting my phone up over the dash faded it out. and im sorta tryin to drive mostly sorta
 
tbh 78 - I do owe you a beer, while we are enjoying the sammiches you bring - today during this exercise I noticed that applying my BRAKES suffers a HUGE voltage loss. I didn't see it this whole time.

so now I chase that.

20200201_132017.jpg
 
tbh 78 - I do owe you a beer, while we are enjoying the sammiches you bring - today during this exercise I noticed that applying my BRAKES suffers a HUGE voltage loss. I didn't see it this whole time.

so now I chase that.

View attachment 349721

:thumbsup:

All in good fun! Chase it down. You really need 14.2 BTW. Gotta be there somewhere! Go find it!
 
gleefully stolen from another website:

On the genuine Carter AFB's used by Studebaker (not the ones for the airbox, different story):

(1) accelerator pump shaft seal was accomplished by adding a brass fitting with a cavity inside the airhorn. The accelerator pump shaft ran through the cavity and had two teflon washers, one on either side of the cavity, held in place with a spring. The shaft ran through the bottom of the cavity, washer, spring, washer, top of cavity.
(2) the idle mixture screws were sealed by milling a cavity into the body around the screw, into which was pressed an O-ring, with the idle mixture screw going through the O-ring. The O-ring was held in place by a steel washer which in turn was held in place by the idle mixture screw spring.
(3) the throttle shafts were sealed by milling a groove around each throttle shaft inboard of where the shaft exited the carburetor body. Distance was maybe 3/8 inch. Don't remember exactly, and not critical for this discussion. Grooves were then milled in the carburetor body intersecting the grooves in the thottle shafts and going to a low pressure area by the outboard edges of the secondary air valve area. Thus the seal was actually a vacuum seal, as the pressure inside the groove was less than in the throttle area.

Carter also placed aluminum baffles inside the brass floats, but the stock floats without the baffles seem to be good for up to 5 pounds boost. We had MUCH better luck with the baffled brass floats than the phenolic. The pressure caused the phenolic floats to absorb fuel and become heavy.

Also, if the pressure gets above 4~5 pounds, you will have to boost reference the fuel pump rather than atmosphere reference, so the pump can pump fuel into the carburetor.
 
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