Disk Brake conversion 1968 Town and Country

dh23t

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I am currently working on a 68 T and C with 4 wheel drum brakes, 11 x 3 inch all around. I am considering installing disc brakes and have access to a single piston set up from a 1970 fury. Has anyone done a similar swap? What issues might come up? I am concerned about suspension geometry with the newer spindles, and hydraulic hose lengths and fitment.
 
I am currently working on a 68 T and C with 4 wheel drum brakes, 11 x 3 inch all around. I am considering installing disc brakes and have access to a single piston set up from a 1970 fury. Has anyone done a similar swap? What issues might come up? I am concerned about suspension geometry with the newer spindles, and hydraulic hose lengths and fitment.

Suspension geometry stays the same as the upper and lower control arms are universal fit.. You will need a '68-'70 Bendix dual diaphragm booster unit to power the discs and the appropriate master cylinder. Calipers are the same from '69-'73. You will also need to install a brake proportioning valve and the appropriate tubing. Front disc brakes also take different hoses. The car will need wheel alignment. Disc brake rotor supply has been spotty but they are generally still available, you just might need to do some digging to find them. Be sure to install Timken bearings as the Chi-Com bearings are mostly crap.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. The car has the bendix booster already, and I have 2 more on the shelf rebuilt and ready to go. Ball joint shaft diameters are the same on the 68 and 70? I remember upper ball joints being different on something, but thinking thats an a body, right?

20170905_184549.jpg
 
Thanks Dave. The car has the bendix booster already, and I have 2 more on the shelf rebuilt and ready to go. Ball joint shaft diameters are the same on the 68 and 70? I remember upper ball joints being different on something, but thinking thats an a body, right?

View attachment 349082

'65-'73 upper and lower ball joints are the same.

Dave
 
GREAT T&C wagon...… good luck with the swap, and those LOOK like disc brake wheel covers.
 
and those LOOK like disc brake wheel covers
From what I can tell, the outer rings are the same as the Disc brake covers. I will just need to change the centers which denote Chrysler Disc Brakes with a red ring, IIRC.
 
From what I can tell, the outer rings are the same as the Disc brake covers. I will just need to change the centers which denote Chrysler Disc Brakes with a red ring, IIRC.

I hope yer wheels are 15". . . Huh?
 
I hope yer wheels are 15". . . Huh?
Hubcaps on his T&C denotes 15 inch.
Those hubcaps and 15 inch wheels were optional on all models with drum brakes.
The towing package came with 11X3 drums all around and did not have the self adjuster cables.
The drums & backing plates are worth some money to a guy building a Hemi Road Runner,Charger,or Super Bee.
 
That's right - you could get 15" wheels with DRUM brakes and you got a VERY similar wheelcover with them. Beautiful T&C that looks great with those wheel covers. When the conversion it will stop just as nicely as it looks.
 
14 inch standard hubcaps,left;optuional 14 inch middle/standard new yorker;optional 15 inch wheel cover with drum brakes far right..
BARGE ON A BUDGET 248.jpg
 
Hi dh23t,

I am interested in your disc brake conversion project. I have a 1968 Plymouth Custom Suburban Station Wagon with a Trailer Pack (3" x 11" Drums).

Did you need to change your wheels? I was told by a Mopar fan that the conversion to from Mopar Drum to Mopar Disc brakes requires "wheels designed for disc brakes" for clearance reasons.

I have the original steel wheels.

Blue_flagEmail2.jpg


Thank you.
 
Hi dh23t,

I am interested in your disc brake conversion project. I have a 1968 Plymouth Custom Suburban Station Wagon with a Trailer Pack (3" x 11" Drums).

Did you need to change your wheels? I was told by a Mopar fan that the conversion to from Mopar Drum to Mopar Disc brakes requires "wheels designed for disc brakes" for clearance reasons.

I have the original steel wheels.

View attachment 373730

Thank you.

Mopars with disc have 15" wheels, a lot of the rest of them had 14" wheels. You have to run 15" wheels if you are doing a disc conversion with factory parts. 15" wheels are the same with or without discs.

Dave
 
i Dave,

I have 15 inch wheels. They are just "standard" steel wheels (a little wider as I have the Trailer Pack option).

Sounds like the Mopar Disks will fit my car. You can see my wheels better in the picture below.

Please let me know if I'm missing something. Would be disappointing to do all the work and find my 15" wheels didn't fit. ;-)
BlueEmail2.jpg


Next questions:

1) I've read some debate on the location of the tire/wheel when changing to the 69-72 or 73 spindles. Does anyone know if the wheel location changes?

2) I would plan for a front-end alignment after the spindle swap. Do they align to my 68 specifications, or do they need to match to spindles year (69-72, or 73)?

3) I currently have "manual" (non-power) brakes. Does anyone know if there is a master cylinder for manual disc brakes?

4) I'm told if I go to power brakes, I might need a new brake bracket and pedal. Any thoughts on this?

Thank you.
 
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Thanks Dave. The car has the bendix booster already, and I have 2 more on the shelf rebuilt and ready to go. Ball joint shaft diameters are the same on the 68 and 70? I remember upper ball joints being different on something, but thinking thats an a body, right?

View attachment 349082

If it's a drum brake car you don't have the right booster if it's still got the original. Disc require the tandem version of what the car came with.

Kevin
 
Spindle location is the same, so the wheel position will not change. The alignment should at least be checked as the replacement spindles might show some tweaking from use just as you drum spindles have some too. This would be a good time to inspect the upper control arm bushings and replace them if they are weathered. The 15" wheels were the same for both drum and disc cars. As noted, be sure if you are converting to discs to locate a disc brake master cylinder and a disc brake power booster unit as the discs require a different booster, usually a Bendix dual diaphragm unit. If your car has the heavy trailer option, it might have this booster already installed. In that case you would just need the disc brake master cylinder. The '70 Fury disc brake booster will fit your wagon. Be sure to have it rebuilt. www.boosterdeweyexchange.com does a good job of servicing these boosters. You will also need to find a disc brake proportioning valve as the drum brakes do not use this item. It is used to balance the front and rear brakes so that the car stops straight. The one of the '70 Fury could be adapted. Chrysler called it a metering valve and it is located at the split for the front brakes at the crossmember. It is a small brass block

Dave
 
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Thanks Kevin and Dave for your input and links.

It sounds like I need to convert to a booster for disc brakes. I was hoping there was a non-booster option like I have with my drums. I'm used to "the feel" of these.

What I have now.

EngineAndBrakeMasterCyl.jpg
 
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