ALUMINIUM RADIATOR (Plus a Long Boring Rant)

[69PHOENIX]

Hi Fellas,
And Yes that is the Correct way to Spell it.LOL
In the Process of Doing Up a 69 Phoenix / Plymouth Fury Sedan. Its a bit of a Wreck & will mostly stay that way.(I have seen too many blokes who have spent a $Million building a Magnificent car who are then too afraid to drive it, who won't go on a run because it might rain. What's the Point of owning a Car if you can't Drive it.) Body will be Rough but I 'm not going to shed tears of blood if some LOL rams it with her Shopping Trolley, Mechanicals will be BB on LPG/ HD T/F with Gear Vendors, 3.73 Truetrac, 4W Discs, 235 x 15 on 8" Front, 295 x 15 on 10" rear. Complete Suspension Rebuild Etc (A Retirement Present to Myself. I hope to Live long enough to Finish it But if not I'll have a lot of FUN Trying. Anyway, one of the Items I have Purchased for the Project is an Aluminium Radiator comp with Shroud & Thermo's. However I now have People telling me that I will have Problems in the Long Run Because the Steel in the Motor & the Radiator will Corrode each other????
Anyone Experienced this Problem?
Again Thanks in Advance & Apologies for any Spelling Mistakes LOL Tony.M

 

[LeBaron1973]

If that were true, aluminum radiators wouldn't be offered for sale. I would suggest that corrosion is dependent upon the coolant used.

Use the correct one, and you'll be fine.

Also consider the engines/motors with steel blocks and aluminum heads, must be millions of them, they wouldn't be made if there were issues, lots of testing before production is approved.

I wish you much joy and happiness with your project.

 

[CBODY67]

From the introduction of the '82 Camaro, GM started using aluminum radiator cores with composite tanks. VW had already been using them on some of their cars, too. The VW radiators became the darling of many big block Chevy drag racers, as they'd keep the engines cool at the drag strip AND weighed much less than any larger copper radiator.

ACDelco had some "upgrade" replacement radiators in the '90s. They were the composite radiators. I put one on my '77 Camaro, replacing a 3-core copper Modine radiator. Took 45 minutes for it to open the 180 degree F thermostat on a spring day! NO corrosion issues at all.

The benefit, other than cooling performance, and the reason the OEMs went in that direction was that ethylene glycol and radiator solder don't like each other. Which is part of the need to change coolant as the additive package to counter-act that situation became depleted. Read that in a BASF coolant flyer back in the '80s. Which then, with the similar aluminum/composite tank heater cores, allowed the OEMs to have "Long Life" coolants and such, with changes every 100K miles rather than bi-yearly.

Still, keep quality coolant in the system at the correct concentration for best results.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

As a side note, back in the '60s when some OEMs were experimenting with optional or standard equipment aluminum engine blocks (Chrysler /6 and some Buick small blocks), it took a special coolant for those engines, but that was back then. By the middle '60s most of the name-brand coolants proudly rated that they were approved for use in engines with aluminum blocks and such. In the present time, it seems that aluminum blocks and heads are the norm rather than the exception in most cars and such.

CBODY67

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Use G-05, the orange stuff that new Chryslers, Ford's, and MB use. It is designed for dissimilar metals.

 

[1978 NYB]

No problems here.....

 

[commando1]

now have People telling me that I will have Problems in the Long Run Because the Steel in the Motor & the Radiator will Corrode each other

Now that's about the biggest stretch of bullshit I've ever heard come down the road. What goes through their minds?

 

[stubs300]

Now that's about the biggest stretch of bullshit I've ever heard come down the road. What goes through their minds?

Drugs!

 

[Davea Lux]

Iron in the motor is not the problem. If you retain the original brass heater core that can be if proper corrosion protection is not maintained. If you run straight water or a very weak anti freeze mix, an ion transfer takes place between the aluminum radiator and the brass heater core, this starts an aggressive corrosion process which eats up the metal. As long as a good quality antifreeze, such as noted above, is maintained you should not have a problem. If you are really worried, a sacrificial cathode can be installed in place of the radiator drain which stops the corrosion of the radiator.

Dave

 

[rags]

and don't use salt water as coolant.

 

[LeBaron1973]

Also consider that your car is 51 years old and the technology related to metallurgy and coolants and lubricants and fuels has changed for the better over the years.

Probably the major concern for engines is the reduction in the amount of Zinc (ZDDP) in oils which WILL affect engines with flat tappets (NOT AN ISSUE FOR YOUR DODGE) capitals just for emphasis.

Join a Mopar club and you'll find folks who know about, or who can point you to competent professionals whether body/paint, electrical, upholstery, mechanical etc. They'll advise and assist you to get the old girl in tip top shape for many kilometers/miles of happy motoring.

When I lived in Adelaide I ran my Studebaker's and Lincolns on BP Ultimate 98 Octane premium, (94 Octane for the USA as we use RON and they use MON to rate Octane). Not that they required it, but considering the cost of acquiring, restoring, and maintaining an older vehicle, why not use the best fuel?

Keep us updated with your project, my comments are based on what I've learned from car forums over the years, there are many competent guys/gals on FCBO who will help you with your car.

 

[LeBaron1973]

On rereading your post, I note you intend to rebuild the suspension. Be aware that Chrysler Corporation vehicles ARE different to what Ford and GM and others did back then. Rebuild your suspension AS IT WAS DESIGNED AND INTENDED TO BE and you'll be fine, lots of folks intend doing wonders but end up destroying their vehicle by trying to "improve" on the engineering skills and millions of dollars spent designing and perfecting Chrysler Corporation vehicles- don't be one of them.

 

[stubs300]

View attachment 355558 and don't use salt water as coolant.

Why would anyone want to do that unless your stupid!

 

[rags]

Why would anyone want to do that unless your stupid!

fa·ce·tious
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adjective
adjective: facetious
treating serious issues with deliberately inappropriate humor; flippant.

 

[Davea Lux]

Why would anyone want to do that unless your stupid!

Probably no one is that stupid, though some of the folks that have spent their entire life playing video games in their parent's basement might qualify. A more common problem is to use fluoridated and chlorinated city water as coolant, every bit as destructive over the long term. Both are highly conductive ions.

Dave

 

[Gerald Morris]

Probably no one is that stupid, though some of the folks that have spent their entire life playing video games in their parent's basement might qualify. A more common problem is to use fluoridated and chlorinated city water as coolant, every bit as destructive over the long term. Both are highly conductive ions.

Dave

Down here we get Ca(CO3) and [OH]- in addition to sundry halides and metallic anions. To wit: use DISTILLED WATER ONLY plus whatever organic polymers you're going to add to water to reduce the freezing temperature and raise the boiling point. I use Zerex Green at about 60% during the coldest part of winter, and cut this down to ~40% by summer solstice. One can always use a little pH paper and/or a sensitive voltmeter to check the active chemistry of the coolant. Given that I use brass "freeze" plugs with my aluminum radiator, I deem it best to maintain a scrupulously pure coolant solution, as a matter of principle. Thus far, I've kept the green soup pretty CLEAR, with very little rust or other metallic oxides clouding the coolant up.

If your city water is as bad as mine, you should take care to remove ALL of it from your coolant jacket before adding in your coolant solution. A good shop vacuum has 1.5" hoses which make good connection to the upper radiator hose. This, combined with some compressed air blowing through the cooling jacket does a good job of removing just about all moisture from the system before adding in the proper coolant. I simply don't care to trust this toxic soup we get from the hoses in my engine any longer. I don't even allow my animals to drink the stuff.

 

[Ccas]

I've seen an occasional aluminum radiator turn to mush because of electrolysis. If a car is setup incorrectly and a charge ends up consistently passing through the radiator this will happen and happen somewhat quickly. However, it is rare and due to poor grounding and/or bad wiring.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I've seen an occasional aluminum radiator turn to mush because of electrolysis. If a car is setup incorrectly and a charge ends up consistently passing through the radiator this will happen and happen somewhat quickly. However, it is rare and due to poor grounding and/or bad wiring.

Sure, it CAN happen and Al is a somewhat reactive metalloid. Strong hydroxides will turn aluminum into smoldering rubbish in minutes. I've done it. Thank the Lord NOT to any radiator!

Still, I take plenty care with the fine product you all made for me a couple yrs ago. I would like to try the 18 x 21 inch one from you when I can afford it. That will fill out the space in my 66 better and give a couple more sq inches of surface area to cool even better!

 

[jct]

Only reason i don't drive my car in the rain, water leaks into the cabin from the front windshield area and I've yet to get it fixed,

 

[stubs300]

Only reason i don't drive my car in the rain, water leaks into the cabin from the front windshield area and I've yet to get it fixed,

My A100's like that as well, only I can see light through the gasket too. It's all cracked up!