Pulled out rear axles to inspect bearings and found this...

James Romano

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I looked down the tubes and there was this spacer sitting in the carrier. The other half is still in the carrier.

What is it and do i need it? It looks like a spacer that just sits in there. I'm happy to pull the carrier as i need to change the fluid anyway, but was wondering thy this came out

Thanks as always

IMG_20200228_120917762.jpg
 
Thank you!

I'm going to just replace my rear bearings with a set of Greens. Might as well as the thrust bearing is already out I'm in the "while I'm there" range of working on the rear.

Thanks again for the advice. What's simple to others is a death march for the noobes. Lol.
 
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If you drive this car at all hard, the green bearings might not be a good option as they are considerably weaker that the stock tapered units. "On around the corner burnouts" they have been known to split the race for the ball bearing and eject the rear axle. That will trash your rear quarter and possibly cause a serious accident. Green bearings work pretty well on B-Body cars, but with those, you are pushing a lot less weight.

Dave
 
I wondered about these 'Green' bearings searched awhile back for a explanation all I came up with is that these are the 'cats pajamas' and people pay $$$$ for them.

Now that I know they are ball bearings vs tapered bearings why oh why would anyone use them?
Oh yea the backlash adjustment I guess. :realcrazy:
 
I've read both arguments. It really depends on your driving and use of the vehicle.

I'm interested in doing it once and being done with it. Apparently when they first came out, they weren't as reliable, but that's changed since then and many guys are raving about it he quality
Tomato... Tomato... I guess
 
Wondering if it might depend upon who's doing the installing/replacement and their own preferences? OR if the car might have factory fender skirts installed (to contain the released wheel/axle unit)?
 
I'm going to have a proper machine shop install the bearings. The rest is on me. I haven't read anything anywhere about these things having catastrophic failure like that. However....there is a ton of stuff on counterfeit bearings out of China (no surprise there).

I don't intend on beating on this car. It's not set up for that. It's all stock, and i want to keep it that way.
 
Green bearings are fine. Mine would have failed a long time ago if they were not.





 
What indication do you have to change the original bearings. 98% of the time clean repack with grease, change the inner seal and reinstall. Left side first then right, adjust down to a nice little shake.
Done.
 
I had a lot of noise in the rear. Already found a crappy u joint, and while inspecting the wheel bearings, the thrust washer ( in my original post) came out.

So I figured might as well just put a new set in, and have all around peace of mind.

I'm also not all that keen on driving around on 54 year old bearing i have no knowledge of history on, and have 84k on them
 
Green bearings are fine. Mine would have failed a long time ago if they were not.

Wow, nice ride! What size rims and tires you have in the rear that allow you to keep the skirts on? I'm looking to do the same on my 65 Fury
 
Most mopar myths haven't been updated since the early 70's, the Green Bearings being one of them. There are several options now (fixed flange and separate flange with a snap ring) AVOID the early RP-400 style (fixed flange) and look for the later street approved MO-400 style (available from Doctordiff.com)

I've used the MO-400 in a few street cars (one a 68 Plymouth 2dr VIP, a 1970 Plymouth Suburban and a 1965 Plymouth Belvidere) with plenty of miles and corners taken. Don't let the myths spook you, do your research. Here's a link

Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain

green-bearings.jpg
 
Water seepage and adjustment difficulties, sure. The argument against weakened center and less than total spline engagement isn't fixed with the bearing swap though.
 
Water seepage and adjustment difficulties, sure. The argument against weakened center and less than total spline engagement isn't fixed with the bearing swap though.

Most mopar myths haven't been updated since the early 70's, the Green Bearings being one of them. There are several options now (fixed flange and separate flange with a snap ring) AVOID the early RP-400 style (fixed flange) and look for the later street approved MO-400 style (available from Doctordiff.com)

I've used the MO-400 in a few street cars (one a 68 Plymouth 2dr VIP, a 1970 Plymouth Suburban and a 1965 Plymouth Belvidere) with plenty of miles and corners taken. Don't let the myths spook you, do your research. Here's a link

Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain

View attachment 357237


Part of the reason for running tapered bearings was that when they were properly adjusted, the axles were fully engaged in the splines. Also properly adjusted and packed, they were good for at least 100k. They also have about twice the surface wear area of the green ball bearings. It comes down to a matter of what the vehicle owner is comfortable with. I stay with stuff that I know works, you are free to do as you please with your vehicle. Mine all have tapered rollers and will stay that way. FYI it was no myth that some of the green bearings did launch the axles. Your choice, good luck.

Dave
 
I said "the myth hasn't been updated"

Clearly, you didn't read the attached article written by a man who has built or sold parts for more differentials than you and I have. I worked at Strange Engineering in the set up department for 5 years, so I've probably assembled and repaired more differentials than most regular 'mechanics'.

There is more than one way to keep these cars rolling.

This option is an acceptable street option, regardless of your opinion, and thousands of cars are currently rolling with these bearings installed out back.
 
I said "the myth hasn't been updated"

Clearly, you didn't read the attached article written by a man who has built or sold parts for more differentials than you and I have. I worked at Strange Engineering in the set up department for 5 years, so I've probably assembled and repaired more differentials than most regular 'mechanics'.

There is more than one way to keep these cars rolling.

This option is an acceptable street option, regardless of your opinion, and thousands of cars are currently rolling with these bearings installed out back.
So why are these better?
Or for that matter how are the original type bearings bad?
I never understood the logic except that someone made a product for lazy or (no other way to put it) stupid people.
Don't get me wrong i have used them. Usually when they came on the axles already. I have never changed them over from the originals.
I'm not one to change things because other people have done it.
Also changing parts and not knowing the source of the noise is not a repair.
84k is a drop in the bucket for these bearings. Without pitting, bluing, or rust. The bearings are not your noise.
The bearings do not know they are 54 years old and have turned 84k miles.
 
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15x8 all the way around with 4.75" backspace. The rears are 275/60's
 
I have the green bearings and a detroit locker locking differential and launch with super sticky drag radials. I drive it daily. All of those videos i posted are with that setup.
 
15x8 all the way around with 4.75" backspace. The rears are 275/60's

Thank you. I really like you car and watching those vids of you tearing up a track with it was great. I imagine that Mustang owner was shitting himself watching you blow past him. Lol

I'm looking to do 255's in the rear with the skirts. I figured it was down to BS on the rims. I just picked up a new set of Espo springs with a 1"a lift. Going with all new shackles and KYB gas shocks. That will give me the height and width clearance I need for the wheels.
 
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