Pulled out rear axles to inspect bearings and found this...

I have the original stock sacked-out springs and kyb shocks. And i run cal-tracs.
 
I like your original question...how the hell did a thrust spacer get into the axle tube? That shouldn't be able to just stick to the end of the axle,should it?
Now that I see this thread lol...
I can see the advantage of roller bearings taking less power to roll and can handle the side loads in light duty applications however, they will never handle the same sideloads as a equal taper bearing. Chrysler just overbuilt their stuff for a few reasons but fact is nobody uses roller bearings up front for a reason.
 
Watch what size 255's you get. I ran 255-60-15's on all four corners of my road runner. Both Good Year Eagle GT II and bf goodrich.8 tires and all of them were out of round. Like the internal belts were overlapped. I thought I was nuts. Swapped to 17s and 255-50-17s smooth as silk.
 
I like your original question...how the hell did a thrust spacer get into the axle tube? That shouldn't be able to just stick to the end of the axle,should it?
Now that I see this thread lol...
I can see the advantage of roller bearings taking less power to roll and can handle the side loads in light duty applications however, they will never handle the same sideloads as a equal taper bearing. Chrysler just overbuilt their stuff for a few reasons but fact is nobody uses roller bearings up front for a reason.
The pin that holds them together crapped out and the end result is either open the rear end and repin it, or go with non-adjustables and leave it out.

Thanks for the advice on the tires. I'm getting close to ordering them. Never heard that happen before unless the seller has shitty batches.. but it does happen
 
Yeah I wished I'd have taken them back when first saw it on the balancer. I didn't know any better, so I'd suggest checking them by eye as they have the on the machine. Just rotate by hand and you'll see a definite bump in the tread.
 
to properly repack your stock bearings first you cut them off and buy new ones---pack the new ones them and reinstall---dont really trust the old smear some lube on them they are good as new guys......that isnt re- packing.....and nothing wrong with green bearings---everyone else using ball bearings or straight rollers......
 
to properly repack your stock bearings first you cut them off and buy new ones---pack the new ones them and reinstall---dont really trust the old smear some lube on them they are good as new guys......that isnt re- packing.....and nothing wrong with green bearings---everyone else using ball bearings or straight rollers......

A lot of times I get on forums and as a noob I don't like to be the guy that points out what people say is wrong. But thank you for saying this for me... I've been an Aircraft Mechanic for 27 years, keeping the heavies flying for that long. When I was in A&P school I learned how to repack a bearing with the usual basic but very effective hand-cup method, and have done it ever since. The first part of repacking a bearing comes from being able to properly clean it and thoroughly inspect it. If you can't... it's replaced. Period. A bearing pressed on to a shaft is a bearing that get replaced if it's in any form of doubt, which mine are.

And I sign my name/certify all my work. So I don't play games with something as cheap as a bearing. If I don't like it...it's gone. Preventive Maintenance and Positive Maintenance Action are the cornerstones of any good mechanic.
 
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