To drill or not to drill -or how to find my original trim holes '68 Polara

HWYCRZR

Old Man with a Hat
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Messages
5,005
Reaction score
6,662
Location
Fargo, ND
Not that the kind of car matters for this one, but '68 Polara.
As some of you know I am restoring my lower aluminum sill plate trim.
Restoration of aluminum lower sill moulding’68 Polara

The original trim clips were screwed into the lower sill of the car. However after the body an paint those are obviously covered up.
What I really want to do is find the original holes, knowing that wanting might not be a reality and I will have to drill new ones.
An Ultrasound or x-ray of sorts could maybe scope them out, but I don't have that technology laying around in my garage.
I have also thought about double sided adhesive, but in the end is that any better than drilling new holes?
Any body have some solid tips?
image-jpg.jpg
dcda9076-700f-4260-84dd-5f6957834b8e-jpeg.jpg
 
Too bad the body shop filled them in... was it originally intended that the trim NOT be put back on? If so, it's understandable. If the trim was to go back on, that's a big NO-NO by the body shop.

That being said, I would simply drill new ones. The trick will be getting them at the correct height to sit the trim properly, and allow it to be screwed down on the bottom edge after it wraps under the body. The holes would have been done with some sort of template or jig originally. There will be the screw hole, and the allignment peg hole for each clip and the holes on the underside of the rocker for the lower screws.

You'll need to make a jig, and use lots of masking tape and a pencil.

So, my idea as I think of it is to put a clip in the trim on the bench, measure the distance to the screw hole from the OUTSIDE upper edge of the molding, then measure the distance (following the exact contour of the inside of the molding) from the bottom screw holes of the trim up to the screw hole of the clip. Make a jig with a lip that can wrap under the body, at the same time being wide enough to hold it up to the rocker with one hand and not move around. The jig will need to have two marking holes in it that equate to the screw hole and allignment peg of the trim clip, using your measurements to put them in the right place on the jig.

Mask off the whole area of the body including the underside of the rocker panel edge. Move along the rocker and mark the clip's holes on the masking tape with something that will be easily seen. Mark the holes for the underside too, by having a trusted helper mark them while you hold the molding up - be careful to ensure the molding is not overly tight to the body or you'll distort the profile, which when it's screwed down will make it look wavy. It really just needs to sit in place. The clips and screws will keep it there.

Now comes the scary part. Drill the underside holes as marked, and fasten the trim to the undersid, making sure not distort it as you go... then, since the body is masked off along where the upper edge of the trim will be, carefully draw a line along the masking to delineate the upper edge. Remove the molding, and use your jig to mark the holes for the clip. Now comes the scary part - LEAVE THE MASKING TAPE ON, and drill the holes and mount the clips. Put the upper edge of the molding into the clips and then fasten it down into the bottom holes.

AFAIK (and I may be wrong), the upper edge of the trim should align perfectly with the door opening edge. From your picture, it looks just a tad low to me, however, I know it's just held up there with a zip tie and possibly some tape.

Good luck!
 
If the body guy used plastic filler to close the holes you might, using a magnet just strong enough to detect metal under the paint, Locate the original holes by a "no stick" zone. If they were welded.... never mind.
But what's the point? Careful measure and then drilling will do the job. I have confidence you can get it done Marty.
:thumbsup:
 
Do you have a scroll saw? I'd make a jig out of a piece of 2x. I'm going to have to go through this same process when I add the lower moulding to my NYer. It only came with the thin moulding. IMO the wide lower moulding makes all the difference in the looks of the car.
 
Too bad the body shop filled them in... was it originally intended that the trim NOT be put back on? If so, it's understandable. If the trim was to go back on, that's a big NO-NO by the body shop.

That being said, I would simply drill new ones. The trick will be getting them at the correct height to sit the trim properly, and allow it to be screwed down on the bottom edge after it wraps under the body. The holes would have been done with some sort of template or jig originally. There will be the screw hole, and the allignment peg hole for each clip and the holes on the underside of the rocker for the lower screws.

You'll need to make a jig, and use lots of masking tape and a pencil.

So, my idea as I think of it is to put a clip in the trim on the bench, measure the distance to the screw hole from the OUTSIDE upper edge of the molding, then measure the distance (following the exact contour of the inside of the molding) from the bottom screw holes of the trim up to the screw hole of the clip. Make a jig with a lip that can wrap under the body, at the same time being wide enough to hold it up to the rocker with one hand and not move around. The jig will need to have two marking holes in it that equate to the screw hole and allignment peg of the trim clip, using your measurements to put them in the right place on the jig.

Mask off the whole area of the body including the underside of the rocker panel edge. Move along the rocker and mark the clip's holes on the masking tape with something that will be easily seen. Mark the holes for the underside too, by having a trusted helper mark them while you hold the molding up - be careful to ensure the molding is not overly tight to the body or you'll distort the profile, which when it's screwed down will make it look wavy. It really just needs to sit in place. The clips and screws will keep it there.

Now comes the scary part. Drill the underside holes as marked, and fasten the trim to the undersid, making sure not distort it as you go... then, since the body is masked off along where the upper edge of the trim will be, carefully draw a line along the masking to delineate the upper edge. Remove the molding, and use your jig to mark the holes for the clip. Now comes the scary part - LEAVE THE MASKING TAPE ON, and drill the holes and mount the clips. Put the upper edge of the molding into the clips and then fasten it down into the bottom holes.

AFAIK (and I may be wrong), the upper edge of the trim should align perfectly with the door opening edge. From your picture, it looks just a tad low to me, however, I know it's just held up there with a zip tie and possibly some tape.

Good luck!

They are not that kind of clip. There is only one screw in the middle, no alignment pegs (never was).
The holes are just filled in with plastic filler, due to the sanding and blocking.
Also they do not wrap around the bottom and I won’t put screws through my trim.
There is supposed to be a reveal between the door and bottom edge. The wheel molding trim has openings to slide this in, so they index the trim level. Will use masking tape or a chalk line to define the top and bottom edges

I will definitely make a template.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
If the body guy used plastic filler to close the holes you might, using a magnet just strong enough to detect metal under the paint, Locate the original holes by a "no stick" zone. If they were welded.... never mind.
But what's the point? Careful measure and then drilling will do the job. I have confidence you can get it done Marty.
:thumbsup:
It’s just filler. The magnet idea may work. I just hate drilling new holes when I know they are already there.
 
Do you have a scroll saw? I'd make a jig out of a piece of 2x. I'm going to have to go through this same process when I add the lower moulding to my NYer. It only came with the thin moulding. IMO the wide lower moulding makes all the difference in the looks of the car.
Yes I have a scroll saw. I bought it used about 20 years ago and never used it. To be fair I have a band saw, table saw, joiner.... anyway enough tools to make a jig.
I probably have a scrap piece of 1/4” plywood that I could cut to the actual size of the trim. Then layout the clips center line and use my drill press to drill holes in the template. I can actually stick it in the wheel molding on each side, secure it and drill.
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I like to hear the different ideas as each is a thought provoker. I put them all on the table and pick pieces of each one to fit my needs.
 
if it's filler, determine a best guess center, start with a 1/16" bit or smaller in a pin vise and hand drill it once it pops through work up in drill diameters, once the hole is large enough use a needle file to open the k Ole out to the original hole. Start at the first mounting hole on the left, repeat on the far right. Use these to find your centers for the balance. If the back side of the trim was not scrubbed clean, there should be a ghost outline where the trim clips where. Use the same techniques to find the balance of holes. Use one side as a pattern and transfer these holes to a pattern for the other side, repeat the process.
 
To measure for new holes, how about putting the clips into the trim, then put some flattened putty/playdough on the car at the appropriate locations. With a helper, align the trim to the car pushing into the putty, leaving an impression where the hole should be.
 
They are not that kind of clip. There is only one screw in the middle, no alignment pegs (never was).
The holes are just filled in with plastic filler, due to the sanding and blocking.
Also they do not wrap around the bottom and I won’t put screws through my trim.
There is supposed to be a reveal between the door and bottom edge. The wheel molding trim has openings to slide this in, so they index the trim level. Will use masking tape or a chalk line to define the top and bottom edges

I will definitely make a template.

Sorry, my bad. I assumed they wrapped under the rocker like mine do, and were secured by screws along the bottom where they can't be seen. The holes are pre-drilled in the molding for mine. Yes, please do not put screws through your trim! LOL!!

So, do the clips sit vertically and hold both edges at the same time? If not, how is the bottom edge secured?

Peter's suggestion is EXCELLENT!
 
One thing you might try before drilling holes is gluing the clips on. You can measure & place them with a hot glue gun then set the trim on and see how it looks. If you’re good pop off the trim and drill away. Hot glue will come right off and any smudges will be under the trim anyway. Square the clips w masking tape before you add the trim and leave it on when you eyeball it so if they do pop off you’ll still know where the go. This could possibly be more stressful than drilling for a passenger side mirror.
 
One thing you might try before drilling holes is gluing the clips on. You can measure & place them with a hot glue gun then set the trim on and see how it looks. If you’re good pop off the trim and drill away. Hot glue will come right off and any smudges will be under the trim anyway. Square the clips w masking tape before you add the trim and leave it on when you eyeball it so if they do pop off you’ll still know where the go. This could possibly be more stressful than drilling for a passenger side mirror.

Not sure hot glue will adhere to a clear coat paint? I like your idea but would suggest using some thin 3M trim adhesive to secure the clips in place.
 
Sorry, my bad. I assumed they wrapped under the rocker like mine do, and were secured by screws along the bottom where they can't be seen. The holes are pre-drilled in the molding for mine. Yes, please do not put screws through your trim! LOL!!

So, do the clips sit vertically and hold both edges at the same time? If not, how is the bottom edge secured?

Peter's suggestion is EXCELLENT!
Yes the clips sit vertically. You kind of hang the trim on the top and snap in the bottom. After all my sanding and polishing I need to make sure my clip flange on the back side fits my clips tightly.
 
OK, that explains things. Interesting.

I can't wait to see it done.

My rocker mlds sit (hangs) in from the top, and they cover the entire rocker to its lower edge, and there's a lip on the edge of the trim that goes under the edge of the rocker. Small stainless screws go through predrilled holes in the trim into the rocker. Workers just used the holes to punch through the rocker

Of course, nearly every single car rusted out along there because of the holes, and then because there was nothing left to screw into due to rust, people just secured the trim by putting screws through higher up, = ruined trim on a one year only part.
:mad::realcrazy::(
 
My rocker mlds sit (hangs) in from the top, and they cover the entire rocker to its lower edge, and there's a lip on the edge of the trim that goes under the edge of the rocker. Small stainless screws go through predrilled holes in the trim into the rocker. Workers just used the holes to punch through the rocker
This how my moldings go on also. It caused me to be a little confused also.
 
I am almost done polishing my second piece. I will take a picture of how the clips go. The originals have a very thin plastic tab that goes between the trim and the body to keep it from rattling.
I may have to figure something out for that as well. I am thinking maybe a little tab made from clear gorilla tape. It would be about the same thickness
Some of the tabs remain but most were brittle and snapped off. I have searched high and low for new ones with no luck.
91473131-4FE4-4031-A82C-9E0EED3B14D8.jpeg
52745B84-84EC-4968-8218-D548FD7358B7.jpeg
 
if the holes in the clips are centered, put your trim where you want and run a length of masking tape top and bottom. take the molding off and find the center between the two lines of tape. drill your holes where you want, add some gorilla snot (weather strip adhesive) to the holes if you like.
 
On the truck side of things there are several people who have used a 3D printer to reproduce unavailable clips.Perhaps you could find a shop in your area that has one and try that.
 
I can make a mold but to make it worthwhile for everyone I would need at least four good ones so I can at least reproduce 4 at a time
 
Back
Top