Finding a manual, removing seats, and other nonsense

[ideologist]

Hello,

I'm trying to check for a broadcast sheet on a 65 4-door hardtop New Yorker. The manual selection for this year isn't great, no Haynes and a handful of homemade books are what I have found so far. I am going to overhaul lots of little bits where I can. I'd love to find an original AM/FM Radio and a power antenna. This car has the reverberator and rear speakers already. I have never dug into this series before so I would really prefer a manual or diagrams to go into the facelift correctly.

Does anyone have tips for finding a manual for a 65 Chrysler?

Also, any tips for removing the seats without damaging the fabric upholstery?

Thank you!

 

[68_fury_ragtop]

You will be able to get the service manual here.
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

 

[live4theking]

If you're wanting to remove the whole seat there are nuts that are removed from the underside of the car. Go to the website posted above and download the service manual. These are the old dealership manuals.

 

[ideologist]

I'm really hoping just to remove the cushions. On this model, the sheets are commonly tucked inside the cushions somewhere. I downloaded the 65 manual and I'm flipping through it now

I'm optimistic that the sheet is still there, Michigan build, sold in NY and moved to CA a few months later. No rot, no rust, no moisture damage.

Has the original receipt/bill of sale, original title, all the dealership paperwork. Would be nice to pull out a broadcast sheet to go with everything. Car is cosmetically all original, just needs a steam cleaning and a paint job. Not bad for 55 years old.

I'm hoping to swap in a few more dealer/factory options if I can find them. Has a few already. The power 6-way bench seat is ridiculous, and it's a blast to drive

 

[live4theking]

In search of a build sheet then I suggest pulling the back seat, much easier than the front. Push down on the front of the bottom and push backwards. The seat bottom is held in by a "hook" on either side. Once the bottom is out then there is a bolt on either side of the bottom of the back. Take the bolts out and left up on the back to get it out. At least this is how they come out on a 68. I would think a 65 would be almost the same way.

 

[Davea Lux]

The lower seat cushion can be removed on the rear by pushing down on one corner and pushing as far back as possible to the rear, then while holding the seat to the rear, grab the lower part of the seat and pull upwards and forward and that should disengage the lock, repeat on the other side of the seat and it should come free. The upper seat cushion is held in place by a bolt on each side at the bottom of the cushion, remove the two bolts and the cushion can be lifter upward to free it. Some '65 models also had the build sheet glued above the glove box, so check there if you do not find it in the seats. Grab a flash light and look under the driver seat cushion, some build sheets were placed under the springs, other cars with bucket seats had the build sheet stuffed up inside the back of the top half of the seat.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

For manuals, parts books, and other things "1965 - 1955", www.jholst.net This is primarily a 300 Letter Car oriented website, but the parts books and such are the same, letter or non-letter car.

Getting the rear seat cushion out can be somewhat variable, by observation. A simple retention device that can take some seemingly-major muscle to get things to unlatch and latch again. BUT, once you get the hang of it, not too bad. BEFORE you put the cushion back in, make sure of where any seat belts are!

As I recall, a slight pull of the cushion forward, then a quick depression and simultaneous push rearward usually does it. Two "latches", about in the center of the rear footwells Do one side at a time. Might need to put a towel over any cloth you might have to apply pressure to, for good measure.

In theory, there might be a build sheet on EACH of the interior seats, rather than just the rear cushion. That's just my theory and no more.

I believe that the '65 and '66 radios will interchange, as the instrument panel is basically identical in those two model years. I believe the power antenna mounted on the rh rr quarter panel, but also needs an instrument panel switch to run it up and down (on the opposite side from the map light switch, in the map light's bezel), I believe. So . . . antenna unit, switch, map light bezel with switch (or possibly carefully cutting the bezel itself), related wiring harness.

Personally, the power antenna location looks a bit "strange" to me, compared to the location of the normal front antenna. That was not a really big option, back then. Would probably need to completely overhaul any used antenna mechanism you might find?

Back then, FM radio was generally only in the larger metro areas, especially range-wise. But then we didn't have nearly so many 100K watt stations. Which might diminish the availability of OEM AM/FM radios themselves. The AM radios, from my experience, were very good in reception and sound quality. I would suspect the FM radios to be similar in those respects.

It is EASY to add an additional rear speaker, provided the rear seat heater option is not there. Back when it was a "used car", I added a factory OEM rear speaker to the existing one in our '66 Newport Town Sedan. Used a Chrysler accessory kit to do it. Very much worth the effort!

As you've probably discovered, the reverb option can be "neat" or quite the opposite, depending upon how you adjust the delay.

So, while you're waiting to find a AM/FM radio, you can add the 2nd rear seat speaker. You might look around for pictures of '65-'66 Chryslers with the rear power antenna option so you might make a better decision of if it would be worth it to do (especially since the coax would go from the rear quarter to the instrument panel and such).

That is ONE BEAUTIFUL New Yorker!

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[ideologist]

For manuals, parts books, and other things "1965 - 1955", www.jholst.net This is primarily a 300 Letter Car oriented website, but the parts books and such are the same, letter or non-letter car.

Getting the rear seat cushion out can be somewhat variable, by observation. A simple retention device that can take some seemingly-major muscle to get things to unlatch and latch again. BUT, once you get the hang of it, not too bad. BEFORE you put the cushion back in, make sure of where any seat belts are!

As I recall, a slight pull of the cushion forward, then a quick depression and simultaneous push rearward usually does it. Two "latches", about in the center of the rear footwells Do one side at a time. Might need to put a towel over any cloth you might have to apply pressure to, for good measure.

In theory, there might be a build sheet on EACH of the interior seats, rather than just the rear cushion. That's just my theory and no more.

I believe that the '65 and '66 radios will interchange, as the instrument panel is basically identical in those two model years. I believe the power antenna mounted on the rh rr quarter panel, but also needs an instrument panel switch to run it up and down (on the opposite side from the map light switch, in the map light's bezel), I believe. So . . . antenna unit, switch, map light bezel with switch (or possibly carefully cutting the bezel itself), related wiring harness.

Personally, the power antenna location looks a bit "strange" to me, compared to the location of the normal front antenna. That was not a really big option, back then. Would probably need to completely overhaul any used antenna mechanism you might find?

Back then, FM radio was generally only in the larger metro areas, especially range-wise. But then we didn't have nearly so many 100K watt stations. Which might diminish the availability of OEM AM/FM radios themselves. The AM radios, from my experience, were very good in reception and sound quality. I would suspect the FM radios to be similar in those respects.

It is EASY to add an additional rear speaker, provided the rear seat heater option is not there. Back when it was a "used car", I added a factory OEM rear speaker to the existing one in our '66 Newport Town Sedan. Used a Chrysler accessory kit to do it. Very much worth the effort!

As you've probably discovered, the reverb option can be "neat" or quite the opposite, depending upon how you adjust the delay.

So, while you're waiting to find a AM/FM radio, you can add the 2nd rear seat speaker. You might look around for pictures of '65-'66 Chryslers with the rear power antenna option so you might make a better decision of if it would be worth it to do (especially since the coax would go from the rear quarter to the instrument panel and such).

That is ONE BEAUTIFUL New Yorker!

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Thanks man, it's a gem. All original paint, as you can obviously see from 10 feet away. The interior is 95% mint, the rear seatbelts still have their shipping stickers on them to protect the finish.

I was hoping to stick the power antenna in the current antenna spot, I just want to get every single switch available on the dash, they are great. Love the Reverb knob, rear speaker volume, and the map light, quality switches and now I'm hoping to chase more down

The radio in its current state does sound fantastic, and I have two rear speakers already with factory openings in the rear tray. Where does the additional speaker go?

I'll take pictures of the interior and start my own resto thread. I want to spruce this one up with factory parts inside and beef up the suspension and steering with modern parts. It already blows the doors off many cars unexpectedly, it's a real sleeper. Grandma's racecar!

 

[CBODY67]

The factory rear speaker (only one) in the rear package tray. Although two stamped openings, one was for the rear seat heater option air intake (rh I believe?). So, only a total of two rear seat speakers IF the rear seat heater option is not there. A illustration of the rear seat heater is in the '66 FSM.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[TxDon]

If you want the manuals to work on the car paper copies are better, preferably originals. Ebay should have them, I usually buy a nice one to keep inside and a grungy one for the garage or trunk.