stubs300
Senior Member
My brothers 66-300 was Ruby poly, that dark maroon color, and his rad support was blacked out from the factory. So I don't know if all the darker colored cars got the same treatment or not?
Another Stoopid Paint Question
- Thread starter Clay Harrison
- Start date
My brothers 66-300 was Ruby poly, that dark maroon color, and his rad support was blacked out from the factory. So I don't know if all the darker colored cars got the same treatment or not?
rkrochen
Senior Member
My car had a previous paint job and the rad support had been painted the same colour as the car so I did the same. Can’t really tell when looking at it from outside. Here are a couple of pics to show you what it looks like painted the same. I was not shooting for 100% factory so it doesn’t bother me.
rapidtrans
Senior Member
Sweet looking ride. Perfect example of maybe not all darker color cars needing the black-out.
I know out Lemon Twist Duster had the black-out.
I know out Lemon Twist Duster had the black-out.
Jim Kolenovsky
Member
As for your car and it's engine bay I would paint it the same as the body color, cleaner. As for the other car shown "sweet".
Jim Kolenovsky
Member
Also if the clear coat gets destroyed it won't look like the cars running around with part of the clear coat gone and just have the iky base coat. Trying not to use bad language here.
John Kirby
Active Member
I think that would make it very difficult to install the inner fenders. When I took mine apart for the resto it was a lot easier to take off the outer fenders first and put them on last. The inner fender is a two piece component. The inner part is common to all c-bodies from ~65 to 73, the outer is specific to each model and year for obvious reasons. if you look at cbarge and shooter's photos the inner part is basically the same and look identical to my 66. I also believe they would have to be painted before install, otherwise they would quickly rust away where they bolt to the frame. (it isn't painted body color). Ma Mopar was always looking for the cheapest/fastest way to assemble these cars. Wouldn't make sense to make it difficult to install the inner fenders last. Not sure about the painting black part, my guess is it's the basic paint from the stamping operation. And they were bolted on and never painted body color. Again, build them as quick as possible.
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It's not about "ease", but about how the cars were assembled at the factory. For example, when we went through the GM-Arlington plant in the earlier '90s, we were standing there where the body came down the line, for the front fenders to be installed on a Chevy Caprice (body/frame car). As we stood there, a man came through the curtain, carrying a fully-assembled front fender assy out and placed it on the lh front section, the core support was loosely installed. He put the assy up to the body, put in 7 bolts, tightened them, and then returned to where he came from. All in about 2 minutes. I looked at my friend and said "We need to see that again." A minute or so later, here he came again, for another car. Instant replay. The common thought would be "Do you know how much time it took to take off that inner fender to replace it, with the fender still installed?"
This illustrates that sometimes, how things are done "in the field" differs greatly from how the cars are put together at the factory, in a particular build sequence. In the case of the fender assys, it's called "off-line assembly" where a complete assy is put together behind the curtain and then installed on the particular vehicle in mere seconds. Same with the instrument panels. Off-line assy and then (seats not installed yet) the workers walk the panel assy through the car, put in the attaching bolts, and their done. NO laying on their backs, as might happen "in the field". Parking brake assys are another off-line assy item.
Now, many of these things CAN be done when restoring a car "from the body shell up", as my associates did on a Plymouth Superbird. The instrument panel was done on a long work bench, where everything could be accessed easily. Then walked through the car and installed easily. The engine went in from the bottom, with the completed front frame section (which self-centered with their tapered-shank bolts). Of course, my friends had a large shop with a body-contact above ground lift. NO issues with scratching up the newly-painted underhood area, either.
But it all gets back to the build sequence at the factory, rather than what we might consider to be "conventional wisdom" out "in the field".
A side issue might be the cost of the paint that went on the '65-'68 cars, to put body paint on those inner fenders. Rather than the less expensive satin black that was "sprayed at" or "dipped into" for the inner fenders on the '69-'73 cars. Less paint spray = less VOCs into the atmosphere. The "dip" was a large container with paint poured on top of water, then the part was dipped into it, while on a holding fixture/hook, then went on down its way to air dry before it got to the assy line. Maybe even a bit ot electrostatic charge to get the paint and metal "together" a little better, as with the anti-corrosion treatment of the car bodies?
Enjoy!
CBODY67
This illustrates that sometimes, how things are done "in the field" differs greatly from how the cars are put together at the factory, in a particular build sequence. In the case of the fender assys, it's called "off-line assembly" where a complete assy is put together behind the curtain and then installed on the particular vehicle in mere seconds. Same with the instrument panels. Off-line assy and then (seats not installed yet) the workers walk the panel assy through the car, put in the attaching bolts, and their done. NO laying on their backs, as might happen "in the field". Parking brake assys are another off-line assy item.
Now, many of these things CAN be done when restoring a car "from the body shell up", as my associates did on a Plymouth Superbird. The instrument panel was done on a long work bench, where everything could be accessed easily. Then walked through the car and installed easily. The engine went in from the bottom, with the completed front frame section (which self-centered with their tapered-shank bolts). Of course, my friends had a large shop with a body-contact above ground lift. NO issues with scratching up the newly-painted underhood area, either.
But it all gets back to the build sequence at the factory, rather than what we might consider to be "conventional wisdom" out "in the field".
A side issue might be the cost of the paint that went on the '65-'68 cars, to put body paint on those inner fenders. Rather than the less expensive satin black that was "sprayed at" or "dipped into" for the inner fenders on the '69-'73 cars. Less paint spray = less VOCs into the atmosphere. The "dip" was a large container with paint poured on top of water, then the part was dipped into it, while on a holding fixture/hook, then went on down its way to air dry before it got to the assy line. Maybe even a bit ot electrostatic charge to get the paint and metal "together" a little better, as with the anti-corrosion treatment of the car bodies?
Enjoy!
CBODY67
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