Wire wheel or sand blast?

Joseph James

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Going to start on my floor pan this weekend. Metal working isn’t my forte, so I am wondering which would be better for cleaning up the area .

Thanks.
 
Really depends how bad it is. Scaled etc I would blast and treat first
 
Whichever way you decide to do the work, if possible perform it outside. The materials remove and in case of blasting ,the media will go everywhere. I would also cover any areas such as the dash with drop clothes taped down. Make sure the area is well ventilated and wear all the appropriate PPE for your safety.
 
Grind baby Grind!

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Heavily depends, if you grind things down you remove the material, wire wheel only removes what is loose, sandblasting does the same.

Personally my preference is to wire wheel so I can see what is remaining, then only grind what I need to..

My 2 cents worth.
 
Are you seeking to remove "rust", accumulation, or undercoat? How "bare" is the metal now?

As mentioned, "blasting" has lots of "overspray" and dust which accumulates EVERYWHERE. Plastic Media might be a better choice than sand, by observation. Sand CAN be sensitive to moisture/humidity in the bucket, which can complicate things.

As mentioned, tape off EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE you don't desire the blast media to end up. Which will save clean-up time later on.

Might use a manual wire brush to get the initial accumulation removed, if not undercoat or sealer, and then go from there, blasting as the last resort. Then, immediately clean and coat the area with a rust-preventative coating, rather than waiting to do that. Then proceed with the repairs.

Keep us posted,
CBODY67
 
I've used walnut shells on softer metals, like aluminium engine covers with good success. For rust and scale removal I've only used sand as a media. Glass beads also work well on aluminium and for paint removal on intake manifolds and brackets etc. For scaly rust, like your floorpan, I prefer a wire wheel in a variable speed drill.
 
Heavily depends, if you grind things down you remove the material, wire wheel only removes what is loose, sandblasting does the same.

Personally my preference is to wire wheel so I can see what is remaining, then only grind what I need to..

My 2 cents worth.

Yea I'd just thought I'd spread the joy of grinding... you know when the grinding wheel goes through and too deep and catches an tears it all up so then you come to the realization that you really need to replace the floor pan with fresh metal.

-or-

I knew you guys would appreciate seeing a scantly clad female in this thread!

:lol:
 
Whichever way you decide to do the work, if possible perform it outside. The materials remove and in case of blasting ,the media will go everywhere. I would also cover any areas such as the dash with drop clothes taped down. Make sure the area is well ventilated and wear all the appropriate PPE for your safety.

I have a respirator and safety glasses. Hopefully that is enough.

I have a pretty big hole in the floor. About the size of the plastic mat part of the carpet.
 
Be careful of high air pressure when sand blasting. The pressure can cause warping, even on 16ga. sheet metal, that is hard to control. I bough a small hand held abrasive blaster from a Matco tool dealer years ago that works very much like the siphon feed glass bead cabinets. It is probably a re-labeled Harbor Freight caliber tool. It works pretty well on light gauge sheet metal if you don't use too much air pressure. I also mix in some of the worn out powdered glass beads, that "softens" the etching of the sand and really helps keep the metal surface smooth.
 
I use everything other than blasting. Sometimes it just what will physically fit where I'm working.
I just finished a floorpan last week and used the 2" roloc type sanding pads and paint stripping wheels for the first time. On an 90 degree air grinder.
I really like them for smaller areas and edge prep prior to welding.
Wire wheels on a 4 1/2 grinder are great for finding pits and thin spots. But not for weld or paint prep.

Some sheet metal fit up clamps are essential. Makes work much easier and gives you an even gap. You can get them pretty cheap on amazon.

Also I like Rustoleum for floor patching. Red Primer then an enamel top coat. I use small foam rollers and cheap chip brushes from home cheapo.
Low mess and fumes.
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Also I like Rustoleum for floor patching. Red Primer then an enamel top coat.

I've used that Rustoleum (old school) ah it kind of stunk thou. Worked good, nothing re-bubbled through after many years, but I did good amount of grinding to completely remove all the surface crud. I've used both rattle can & brush on quarts to good results.
 
I am debating on buying another floor pan or trying to fill the holes. They aren’t huge. Watched a video where a guy used fiberglass mat and painted POR-15 into it.

Passenger seatbelt (lap) nut pulled out as I was loosening the bolt. That’s a weld job but not sure about the rest.

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I am debating on buying another floor pan or trying to fill the holes. They aren’t huge. Watched a video where a guy used fiberglass mat and painted POR-15 into it.

Passenger seatbelt (lap) nut pulled out as I was loosening the bolt. That’s a weld job but not sure about the rest.

View attachment 369136
View attachment 369137
I am debating on buying another floor pan or trying to fill the holes. They aren’t huge. Watched a video where a guy used fiberglass mat and painted POR-15 into it.

Passenger seatbelt (lap) nut pulled out as I was loosening the bolt. That’s a weld job but not sure about the rest.

View attachment 369136

View attachment 369137

I suspect that you will replace the floor pan. Whatever you do, it will be the right thing.
 
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