What is the current State-of-the-Art Anti-Rust paint?

Carmine

Old Man with a Hat
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I'm not a POR-15 fan. Don't like how I've seen it peel of in sheets (underside of a hood). Conversely I accidentally spilled some Rust Bullet on concrete 15 years ago, and it's still there.

Before I make another R-B order, I'm wondering if anyone feels it's been eclipsed? I'm generally satisfied. In some cases I've seen a very, very mild amount of rust return in areas where I've almost intentionally done poor prep work and failed to topcoat as a "test".
 
I've been using KBS Cavity Coater in rockers, doors, quarters etc, and Fluid Film for easily accessible areas under the car.

You can use the KBS product with a long wand for hard to reach areas. It dries to a brown waxy substance and leaves a smell that I find rather pleasant (maybe because I applied it a little too generously, which wasn't needed. You get used to it and stop noticing it quickly.) I find this solution a lot easier than using any of the "paint" products and am pleased so far.
 
I’m going to look into that right now.
 
I've been using KBS Cavity Coater in rockers, doors, quarters etc, and Fluid Film for easily accessible areas under the car.

You can use the KBS product with a long wand for hard to reach areas. It dries to a brown waxy substance and leaves a smell that I find rather pleasant (maybe because I applied it a little too generously, which wasn't needed. You get used to it and stop noticing it quickly.) I find this solution a lot easier than using any of the "paint" products and am pleased so far.

I appreciate that thought and might look into the KBS products, but right now I'm looking for something to paint over a solid, rust-pitted battery tray or the sketchy edge of the door on a daily-driver.

@detmatt , did you mean you were looking into the KBS or what I am looking for?
 
I appreciate that thought and might look into the KBS products, but right now I'm looking for something to paint over a solid, rust-pitted battery tray or the sketchy edge of the door on a daily-driver.

@detmatt , did you mean you were looking into the KBS or what I am looking for?
The kbs product.
 
I appreciate that thought and might look into the KBS products, but right now I'm looking for something to paint over a solid, rust-pitted battery tray or the sketchy edge of the door on a daily-driver.

@detmatt , did you mean you were looking into the KBS or what I am looking for?

To paint over a solid surface, I would go with Rust-Oleum "Rusty Metal Primer" (do they still make it?, used to be #7769) then topcoat
 
In using these products, I would suspect it would be best to "saturate" the area, letting the product sink into the smaller areas, without air bubbles, but without runs? To ensure encapsulation?
 
I've been using vinegar first to kill, then using just basic Rust-Oleum rust encapsulater. Haven't had any come through yet.

I used zero rust on my 87 newyorker without vinegar as a test, and it did come through. Possiblely because I didn't top coat, it's under the car all exposed to salt
 
Maybe I should just post the Rust Bullet site so you'll get an idea what level I'm already at. Things like Rustoleum have a place, but it's not really designed to encapsulate rust.

Rust Bullet | Rust Paint - Concrete Paint - Kills Rust


Thank you for the info. I was aware of the name but never really looked into it before. It sounds like it's an enhanced version of POR-15 with added UV resistance. Have you used this product extensively in the past? If so, what are the results on areas that are heavily exposed to road salt? Thanks!
 
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I really like Rust Bullet, but can't get it to store even with using the spray gas they suggest using.
But Rust Bullet is tough!
 
I have found it to be the "most" effective and it works even if the surrounding surface has paint on it... Contrarily POR-15 will peel off in sheets if an edge isn't down to bare metal.

The best way to buy it is in the little half-pint cans. As soon as you open it, it starts to cure. What usually happens is it forms a tough glass-like skin. However, in my experience if you break through that, you'll find more usable liquid. I don't even bother to clean the brushes, just throw them away. Wear gloves, the stuff sticks to skin like a MF'er.

As a test I put some on a heavily rusted spot on a 2001 minivan fender, which happened to be silver. I only removed the rust that came off with a wire brush, so still pretty rusty. I never topcoated it since the color was a dead-on match. After 2 years of little care (and we salt a lot here) I just started seeing a bit of "yellow" rust beginning to form. So in other words, not PERFECT, but damn good considering POR would have started to peel from the non-prepped paint edges and any other paint would have had more rust in two weeks than I saw in two years. Under proper circumstances it may have worked even better.
 
Woolwax blows Fluid Film out of the water and ZRC is used on steel hulls and such in salt water
 
i've had good luck with this
Official Distributor for Zero Rust Paint | Lowest Online Price
two heavy coats and it dries rock hard. it reminds me of a ceramic bathtub. i use it on everything. i coated the underside of my lawn mower deck with it last year and the only places it peeled was where the factory paint underneath it peeled. considering the rocks, roots, sticks etc that bounce off the deck , it's not too bad ,and it's one of the cheaper high solid paints out there.
 
i've had good luck with this
Official Distributor for Zero Rust Paint | Lowest Online Price
two heavy coats and it dries rock hard. it reminds me of a ceramic bathtub. i use it on everything. i coated the underside of my lawn mower deck with it last year and the only places it peeled was where the factory paint underneath it peeled. considering the rocks, roots, sticks etc that bounce off the deck , it's not too bad ,and it's one of the cheaper high solid paints out there.
This is what I used, with not great success. However, I did the spray bomb version, brush coats probably work better
 
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