Petronoix III. What's the Good, Bad and Ugly of these things?

[James Romano]

I've been looking at a few improvements to the power of my 383. I've noticed my carb could use a refresh, it's an original Carter AFB 4200S... which shows well, but looks like it's gaskets are shot, and accelerator pump does little to nothing. So I bought the kit and will be doing that very soon..

I found issues with my charging system and ballast resistor, which are sorted ... thanks for all the help!

Now moving into the Dizzy... she runs good, no problems there. Just wondering of moving her in to the modern age and dumping the point system. Seems like a good move from what I've been researching..

What about you guys... any thoughts on this system? I'd be switching to the Fire Burst Coil as well. I like that it all looks stock and works like stock.

As you can see... being from NY, now laid off and in the center of this Covid-19 BS... I've got waaaayyyy too much time on my hands now stuck in quarantine...

 

[detmatt]

I’ve run the standard Pertronix with zero issues, absolutely troublfree and I love it. I’ve heard many have had troubles with the other pertronix kits so I would avoid them but why would you need anymore then the Pertronix 1 for a dependable street cruiser?

 

[3C's & a D?]

Like Matt, I've used the original pertronix with great results, and can't recall exactly but, the two's can work, with extra work? And the three's are pretty much out of the question for a street car.

 

[Ripinator]

I've been looking at a few improvements to the power of my 383. I've noticed my carb could use a refresh, it's an original Carter AFB 4200S... which shows well, but looks like it's gaskets are shot, and accelerator pump does little to nothing. So I bought the kit and will be doing that very soon..

I found issues with my charging system and ballast resistor, which are sorted ... thanks for all the help!

Now moving into the Dizzy... she runs good, no problems there. Just wondering of moving her in to the modern age and dumping the point system. Seems like a good move from what I've been researching..

What about you guys... any thoughts on this system? I'd be switching to the Fire Burst Coil as well. I like that it all looks stock and works like stock.

As you can see... being from NY, now laid off and in the center of this Covid-19 BS... I've got waaaayyyy too much time on my hands now stuck in quarantine...

I'm running the stock points ignition and stock USA-made coils in both of my '66 300s. And I made sure to install NOS or NORS point sets and condensers. NO CHICOM KRAP! I keep spares in the glove box. Both cars run like a top, and unlike a failed Pertronics or other solid state setup, I know I'll always be able to get home, if there is a problem.

 

[67440NewYorker]

Im also running the standard pertronix in my New Yorker and its been trouble free for about 5yrs that we have had it on the car. Even just got the car outta barn last weekend and still workin great!

 

[Turboomni]

I have considered a base Pertronix but points haven't given me a problem at all. I carry an extra ballasts ,coil ,points sets and condensers ,feeler gauge, sand paper and screwdriver in a little box in my trunk. If I were to use a Pertronix I guess I would buy two kits and two coils or just keep my points kit to install if the Pertronix fails. Even when my 505 stroker is done I am planning on using points. It will never see over 5500 rpms maybe lower so in theory points [good points] should work just fine. Anything higher I HOPE they float and act as a rev limiter. For points and dizzies @halifaxhops is your friend.

 

[Turboomni]

I have heard very good reports of the base Pertronix system so I am not slamming it. Have heard of some problems with the fancier ones though.

 

[cbarge]

Why do people doubt the Pertronix?
I had installed several and nooo problems.
A good curve in the distributor with a Pertronix Ignitor #1 will work consistently for years.
Improper gapping or installation is a potential for failure of Pertronix.

 

[Turboomni]

Sorry to ramble on about this but I finally got an answer after a few years of searching.
Question was for my 69 Fury points ignition system.
When replacing the ignition coil what to use? There were 2 options. 1 a 12 volt coil and 2 a 6 volt coil. I asked many guys and researched this and when asked the question 99% said "12 volt car needs a 12 volt coil"
I would ask though after the ballast it is 6 to 7 volts ,so why not a 6 volt coil? They would either not answer or say something about the current after the coil.
More research on an antique car forum from an electronics expert of his findings using a 12 volt coil after a ballast resistor. The coil output at 6 volts is not half that of 12 volts it is less than half the spark voltage. He then went on about the electrical reasons etc. So based on this against what most recommended I installed a new 6 volt coil a few years ago. Plugs look great ,no fouling and keep themselves clean. Coil did not burn up.
I ran this question by Mr Dave Lux here to see what he thought.
He said that they ran [mopar] 6 volt coils from the factory with points and ballast ignitions throughout the 1960's. He also said that because of the different windings the 6 volt and 12 volt coils would be pretty close in spark output at their respective voltages. Finally the answer I was looking for.
I bring this up because many who have problems with points may have replaced the coil with a 12 volt coil and should be running a 6 volt and as a result have very low spark output.

 

[cbarge]

I run Pertonix in the 66 300,bypassed the ballast resistor and run an Accell Super Stock 12 volt coil. Been like that since 2013.
No problems

 

[cbarge]

The Pertronix I requires 12 volts to run hence ballast resistor is not needed.
Ballast resistor as mentioned drops 12 volts down to 9.
I did run the 300 from the ballast resistor with Pertronix but with lights on,foot on brake at an intersection causing a voltage drop and cuts power to the Pertronix stalling the engine.
Lesson learned,so I used the blue wire (switched source) that used to feed the ballast to feed the Pertronix.
Done.

 

[Davea Lux]

If you just want a reliable electronic conversion, contact Rich Rehrenberg, he sells quality Chrysler reproduction units that are all sourced with US made parts. He has a site on ebay. www.ebay.com/str/ricksmopars

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

If you decide to go electronic on any Mopar '69 and older, be sure to also change out the mechanical regulator as they are not compatible with electronic ignition.

Dave

 

[Turboomni]

Ballast resistor as mentioned drops 12 volts down to 9.

I measured a bit over 7 volts on mine.

 

[Big_John]

You guys are mixing up current and voltage again, but I digress.

Anyway... I've used the Pertronix I and II. I think the III is overkill for a regular street car.

IMHO, the II is the best bang for the buck. It lets you run a lower resistance coil, therefore a "hotter" spark. It also lets you eliminate the ballast resistor (I think the I does this too) and it has the circuit protection in it in case it gets wired backwards (seen it on this forum a couple times).

In reality, a good running points system will fire the plugs just as well. The electronic ignition systems will let you run a "hotter" coil and often it will fire a fouled plug easier, but truth be told, the electronic system won't need the attention that points will. Not that we are running the mileage we would in a daily driver, but it's nice not to have to set points... With the Chinese sourced condensers that seem to fail often, it's a good upgrade that solves that problem. Personally, I hate screwing with points.... Been there, done that...

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

I measured a bit over 7 volts on mine.

The voltage at the coil POS terminal will vary. There are different BRs with different resistance, and the BR resistance also varies with underhood temperature.

You guys are mixing up current and voltage again, but I digress.

Anyway... I've used the Pertronix I and II. I think the III is overkill for a regular street car.

IMHO, the II is the best bang for the buck. It lets you run a lower resistance coil, therefore a "hotter" spark. It also lets you eliminate the ballast resistor (I think the I does this too) and it has the circuit protection in it in case it gets wired backwards (seen it on this forum a couple times).

In reality, a good running points system will fire the plugs just as well. The electronic ignition systems will let you run a "hotter" coil and often it will fire a fouled plug easier, but truth be told, the electronic system won't need the attention that points will. Not that we are running the mileage we would in a daily driver, but it's nice not to have to set points... With the Chinese sourced condensers that seem to fail often, it's a good upgrade that solves that problem. Personally, I hate screwing with points.... Been there, done that...

The Pertronix Ignitor-I is supposed to be used with the ballast resistor and stock-style coil ("6V coil"). Pertronix-II is more like an HEI setup which does not require a ballast resistor because the ECM has an internal current regulator instead of just an ON/OFF transistorized switch replacing the points.

 

[Big_John]

The Pertronix Ignitor-I is supposed to be used with the ballast resistor and stock-style coil ("6V coil"). Pertronix-II is more like an HEI setup which does not require a ballast resistor because the ECM has an internal current regulator instead of just an ON/OFF transistorized switch replacing the points.

Now I gotta go look...

I looked up for a '68 440 application, Ignitor I.

http://support.pertronix.com/file.p...ture=c8fcadbdee90617897f32a2e4e878120807e39b1

It says to use a ballast resistor with a coil with less than .6 ohms primary resistance. Primary resistance on a stock coil is around 1.5 ohms, so I'd say you can remove the ballast resistor.

"NOTE: If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is lower than 0.6 ohms."

To give some perspective, the coli that is being (incorrectly) called a 6 volt coil is around 1.5-2 ohms. and a coil for a 12 volt system with no ballast resistor (like a farm tractor) is somewhere around 2.5-4 ohms. YMMV.

But, speaking of the HEI, I think that doing a GM HEI conversion is an even better deal, but it does take a little more work.

 

[detmatt]

I have Pertronix I with the flamethrower coil and hardwired my ballast resistor so as to appear stock.

 

[Wildaugust]

If you decide to go electronic on any Mopar '69 and older, be sure to also change out the mechanical regulator as they are not compatible with electronic ignition.

Dave

Does this apply to Pertronix as well, or only to the Chrysler electronic ignition systems? Can Pertronix work and survive with the mechanical VR?

I'm not going to be installing a Pertronix, because I've already converted to Chrysler electronic. I'm asking this for anyone thinking about going with Pertronix.

I hear quite a few complaints about Petronix units failing and wonder if running them with mechanical VRs could be one reason. Another issue with some older cars is not having an ACC position on the ignition switch. So, when people are parked listening to their radio/stereo they have the key in the ON position, which is not a good idea with any ignition system.

 

[3175375]

Does this apply to Pertronix as well, or only to the Chrysler electronic ignition systems? Can Pertronix work and survive with the mechanical VR?

I'm not going to be installing a Pertronix, because I've already converted to Chrysler electronic. I'm asking this for anyone thinking about going with Pertronix.

I hear quite a few complaints about Petronix units failing and wonder if running them with mechanical VRs could be one reason. Another issue with some older cars is not having an ACC position on the ignition switch. So, when people are parked listening to their radio/stereo they have the key in the ON position, which is not a good idea with any ignition system.

I had a Pertronix I fail in my 65 Mustang. Replaced it with an Accel equivalent (all I could get on a Sunday). I probably had the Pertronix for over 10 years and just figured that it gave up the ghost due to my hard driving and high engine temps (.030" over 302, 140k+ miles and open track racing) just killed it....