Need to replace fuel line from tank.

kenfyoozed

Member
Joined
May 25, 2018
Messages
164
Reaction score
56
Location
Mobile, AL
So after installing a new fuel pump my line from the tank started leaking in 3 different areas. Im assuming the new pump, mechanical put enough force on the line to finally create leaks along the more rusted areas. From what I can "see", from the fuel tank its a metal line then there's a rubber section going into the frame, then a metal section exits the frame for about 2' then more rubber line to the pump. What is the correct way to replace? What is the easiest way? And of course I just filled up the tank yesterday. IS there an easy way to drain the full tank? I don't think its safe to drive with the leaking fuel as it is or am just being a big sissy?
 
Nothing sissy about not wanting your car to explode. You don't need to drain the tank due to the design of the sending unit. It does help to be on the low side. I'd take the tank cap off, remove the line from the short hose from the tank and quickly put a dowel in it. Take off the entire line, and bend up a new one. Bend from the tank end first as that's the more complex area.
 
So after installing a new fuel pump my line from the tank started leaking in 3 different areas. Im assuming the new pump, mechanical put enough force on the line to finally create leaks along the more rusted areas.

This is utterly impossible to have happen under any condition! Your lines were toast to begin with before you replaced the pump. You need to replace all lines, even the rubber. Good Luck
 
This is utterly impossible to have happen under any condition! Your lines were toast to begin with before you replaced the pump. You need to replace all lines, even the rubber. Good Luck
I would tend to agree but there was no leak before, as I checked twice within the last week. Maybe moving the rubber line out of the way while installing the fuel pump caused it to flex to much. At any rate it went from not leaking to leaking.......
 
I bent up my own lines.
5/16" steel line and a tube bender.
As mentioned,start from the rear go to the front.
For the rubber pieces I spent the extra on the rubber fuel injection line. It holds up better against today's corn swill based fuels.
Also on the main line I did a small flare where it meets the rubber so the rubber won't blow off.
Old lines on the left,new on right. 1/4" vent lines shown.
BARGE ON A BUDGET 163.jpg
 
I bent up my own lines.
5/16" steel line and a tube bender.
As mentioned,start from the rear go to the front.
For the rubber pieces I spent the extra on the rubber fuel injection line. It holds up better against today's corn swill based fuels.
Also on the main line I did a small flare where it meets the rubber so the rubber won't blow off.
Old lines on the left,new on right. 1/4" vent lines shown.
View attachment 369724

nice work. BTW harborfrieght has small caliper pipe benders for under $10 if anyone is looking.
 
I would tend to agree but there was no leak before, as I checked twice within the last week. Maybe moving the rubber line out of the way while installing the fuel pump caused it to flex to much. At any rate it went from not leaking to leaking.......

That's what happens when you disturb things that have never been disturbed for 50+ years!
 
This really is a pretty easy task you can do on your own with a hand bender. I second what Cbarge said about getting the fuel line intended for fuel injection, you might be buying a foot of total.

The line that is going through your front frame get a little spool of 16 gauge mechanic wire. Stretch out about 5 feet of it take the rubber off that connects to the fuel pump and tape the wire on real good. Then remove the clamp that is on the frame where the steel line comes out of the frame up by the fuel pump. Go back under the car and pull the line out of the frame. Now you have the wire in the frame to pull the new fuel line through with. Doing the rear line is pretty straight forward just remove the old one and bend the new one up like it.
 
Ive been trying to find a diagram on the fuel system or pictures from under the car. Guess I will have to try and build something to get the back up off the ground. Things like this make me wish I had one of those drive up ramps/lifts.
 
Someone may have already suggested but any part of the new line that could contact vibrate or rub against any metal I usually will split a length of rubber line or tubing that will fit comfortably over the new line to protect it from wearing thru.
 
Someone may have already suggested but any part of the new line that could contact vibrate or rub against any metal I usually will split a length of rubber line or tubing that will fit comfortably over the new line to protect it from wearing thru.
great idea!
 
Seems Dantes has them.... should I change the vent line as well while I'm under there? or dies that require dropping the tank?

Our Products - Air/Fuel System - Fuel Lines-Main/Return

usually the vent lines remain dry, so unlikely they will be rusted from the inside out. I would at least change both of the short rubber hoses that connect them (if you have more than one). Also make sure they are clear.
Make sure you change all the rubber connections in your fuel line as well.
 
I bent up my own lines.
5/16" steel line and a tube bender.
As mentioned,start from the rear go to the front.
For the rubber pieces I spent the extra on the rubber fuel injection line. It holds up better against today's corn swill based fuels.
Also on the main line I did a small flare where it meets the rubber so the rubber won't blow off.
Old lines on the left,new on right. 1/4" vent lines shown.
View attachment 369724
Nice job! I am going to have to do the same thing for my 69 Imperial.
 
There is a thread in here, from not too long ago, which started with replacing the fuel tank and ended up replacing the entire fuel line set, front to back.

The advantage of the pre-bent lines is that you have a stainless steel option, rather than normal steel tubing. Your judgment call on that.

The new fuel pump might have had greater suction pulses which dislodged "something", which would have gone through the fuel pump itself. Whoops? Which is why it's sometimes a good idea to put a filter on the intake side of the pump if rust is suspected of being in the lines or tank.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Stainless steel lines are pretty but they are PITA to work with.
Speaking from experience,they leak at the fittings.
Stainless is very hard and does not have the same crush value like regular steel lines so they LEAK!
Tightening up the fittings with flare wrenches to the point the fittings are rounded off and they still @#$ leak!
I threw them in the garbage and reverted to regular steel lines.
Heck the last line lasted 50 years being exposed to the elements.
The car will never see winter driving ever again,and they still look brand new to this day.
So I cannot justify blowing extra dough on stainless lines ever again.
 
As I found out in detailing the underhood of my '67 Newport, you can hit the normal steel lines with some 600-grit "red" Scotchbrite to polish them, and they look really fine. Then, which I didn't do, you can probably clearcoat them and that polished look will remain for years (and offer exterior protection at the same time). On the outside.

Isn't there some hybrid/upgrade material from steel that offers the near-rust resistance of stainless in a steel tubing product?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Which is why it's sometimes a good idea to put a filter on the intake side of the pump if rust is suspected of being in the lines or tank.

Just don't leave it there for too long. I once thought I was smarter than all of the engineer's that designed this system, and put my filter there. After not even 1000 KM, I was having what seemed like a lack of fuel. Only thing I did in that time? The filter, changed it back, never a problem since. The pump has to pull the gas all the way from the tank, then pressurizes it. The pressure from the pump drives the fuel through the filter. Put it before the pump and it has to suck through the filter. Probably would lead to pump failure if left there for a long time.
 
Back
Top