How would you clean this aluminum trim?

Oven cleaner. Works like a charm. It has to soak and it needs a lot of ventilation and rinsing. I’ve done a pile of it. Haven’t done it in a few years, but it is all you need.
 
It's been a couple years. How is it holding up?
I haven’t really driven the car much and now it is in the beauty parlor getting a new interior. I can’t even go check! The guy has a Covid fear and doesn’t like me dropping by. But he sends pics! Included below.

My recollection is that it has not changed much. But re reading this thread got me thinking of some new stuff to test on some baffed out aluminum on a 64 caddy.

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What takes the anodizing off headlight bezels?

I've found that the heavy duty store-brand / generic oven cleaner works better than the name brand Easy-Off.

Take the parts off your car. Stand upwind, spray the pieces liberally and let them soak for a few minutes; it will foam up and gradually dispense into a clear liquid. DO NOT let it dry on there! Keep spraying the oven cleaner and letting them soak until you start to see a gray / brownish foam replace the white foam. Using something other than a bare hand to pick them up -- it's got lye in it -- pliers, chemical glove, etc., rinse them off with high pressure COLD water. You may need to repeat the process once or twice but it will strip them bare.
 
Read through this thread, ton of great info, but did not see one reference to using some #0000 steel wool to clean up the oxidizing on pieces. It finally clicked in my head a few years ago about using steel wool and the stuff saves so much time and effort when cleaning trim and other pieces, then just a quick buff and polish with your favorite compound and you're done. ;)
 
Since this thread was brought back up, I'm interested to hear why you won't use the Costco micro-fiber cloths on painted surfaces? I have a bag of those too, so would like to know if there's something I should be mindful of. Thanks
It's the quality. When you really start getting into it, there are much better microfiber towels out there. Plusher and less likely to scratch or leave swirl marks. Ever look at a black car that the owner uses old tee shirts when he waxes it? Lot's of swirls and very small scratches. Once you get into really doing it right, the towels become more important.

Here's a little explanation.



I don't use many of their products, but it's always decent info.

I use a big, thick towel for drying. Some soft towels for wax etc., waffle weave towels for glass (once you use them, you won't use anything else) and I keep the Costco towels for the interior or wheels. There's nothing wrong with them, I just think they aren't near as good for the paint.
 
I've found that the heavy duty store-brand / generic oven cleaner works better than the name brand Easy-Off.

Take the parts off your car. Stand upwind, spray the pieces liberally and let them soak for a few minutes; it will foam up and gradually dispense into a clear liquid. DO NOT let it dry on there! Keep spraying the oven cleaner and letting them soak until you start to see a gray / brownish foam replace the white foam. Using something other than a bare hand to pick them up -- it's got lye in it -- pliers, chemical glove, etc., rinse them off with high pressure COLD water. You may need to repeat the process once or twice but it will strip them bare.
Will certainly try this tomorrow!
 
Read through this thread, ton of great info, but did not see one reference to using some #0000 steel wool to clean up the oxidizing on pieces. It finally clicked in my head a few years ago about using steel wool and the stuff saves so much time and effort when cleaning trim and other pieces, then just a quick buff and polish with your favorite compound and you're done. ;)
I remember using steel wool. Went through a fair amount. The was some good instruction here earlier. I did all of mine in the basement over the winter. Had to ventilate. Only remember one application of oven cleaner, but did remove it with steel wool. I would google it.

I am also going to grab some scrap and see what happens with muriatic acid.
 
I remember using steel wool. Went through a fair amount. The was some good instruction here earlier. I did all of mine in the basement over the winter. Had to ventilate. Only remember one application of oven cleaner, but did remove it with steel wool. I would google it.

I am also going to grab some scrap and see what happens with muriatic acid.
I’ll await your test results. Oven cleaner is great on aluminum parts ( I had a couple of Corvairs, got one in the queue and may use it on the engine).
The responses regarding ventilation and water are paramount. The comments regarding ventilation also reminds me when I baked some parts after painting them, in the oven when I lived in Kalifornia. The baking turned out a wonderful, durable finish, but 2 problems were created. 1) it stunk up the house terribly and 2) the ex was furious. Both problems solved as 1) I have a toaster oven in the shop (moved to South Dakota and have a shop large enough for a commercial oven), 2) divorced...
 
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