Old 413 Camshaft Selection

That looks like normal wear to me.

When a cam "goes flat" or "knocks a lobe off" this it what happens to the lifter. They will be concave, and the lobe on the cam will be ground down visually and to the touch.

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Going by the picture- the lifter face is rusting and pitted. That is not normal wear or a normal break in pattern.
I should have been more specific, it appears to be normal wear for the age of the engine. That picture is greatly digitally magnified which adds digital noise artifacts to the picture
 
I should have been more specific, it appears to be normal wear for the age of the engine. That picture is greatly digitally magnified which adds digital noise artifacts to the picture
The pictures were taken using the digital zoom on my cell phone, but there are no digital artifacts. What you see is exactly what I see with a regular 10x optical magnifier. The engine does not have much mileage on it from the rebuild. Perhaps less than 700 miles. To figure dynamic compression radio, I cc'ed the heads several times to be sure I was getting consistant results. The published volume for the 516 head is 73.5 cc. Mine measure out to be : 79.5, 79.5, 80, 77.5, 78.5, 78, 76, 80. I estimate a probable error of (SWAG) of 0.2cc.
 
The pictures were taken using the digital zoom on my cell phone, but there are no digital artifacts. What you see is exactly what I see with a regular 10x optical magnifier. The engine does not have much mileage on it from the rebuild. Perhaps less than 700 miles. To figure dynamic compression radio, I cc'ed the heads several times to be sure I was getting consistant results. The published volume for the 516 head is 73.5 cc. Mine measure out to be : 79.5, 79.5, 80, 77.5, 78.5, 78, 76, 80. I estimate a probable error of (SWAG) of 0.2cc.
no such thing as digital zoom without digital artifacts. Anyway, The cam and lifters don't look perfect, but they do not appear to be horrible. i would not reuse them myself. i converted to hydraulic roller cams years ago, and although they have their own issues, and costs, you will not likely round off a lobe or ruin a lifter.
 
no such thing as digital zoom without digital artifacts. Anyway, The cam and lifters don't look perfect, but they do not appear to be horrible. i would not reuse them myself. i converted to hydraulic roller cams years ago, and although they have their own issues, and costs, you will not likely round off a lobe or ruin a lifter.
Lets say no discernible artifacts as the cam looks identical when I view it with a 10x optical loop. As I plan to use the car as a trip and tour vehicle, I plan on changing the system out, hence, the start of this thread asking advice on cam selection. Now with the heads cc'ed and using a shim gasket I come up with a CR of 9.12:1. Using the proper oils and additives the flat tappets can last a long time. The rollers I've checked out seem a bit more radical than I need.
 
Lets say no discernible artifacts as the cam looks identical when I view it with a 10x optical loop. As I plan to use the car as a trip and tour vehicle, I plan on changing the system out, hence, the start of this thread asking advice on cam selection. Now with the heads cc'ed and using a shim gasket I come up with a CR of 9.12:1. Using the proper oils and additives the flat tappets can last a long time. The rollers I've checked out seem a bit more radical than I need.

Remember that today's standard oils do not play well with flat tappet cams. Use a 15-40 oil that is diesel service rated, Shell Rotella, Valvoline All Fleet or Chevron Delo oils still have the phosphorus additive package for flat tappet camshafts, most of the rest do not. You can also add the Lucas oil anti friction phosphorus additive, among others, but that stuff tends to settle to the bottom of the oil pan on engines that are not run often. Phosphorus was removed from modern oils because it was not needed with roller cams and was found to poison catalytic convertors if the engine used any oil.

Dave
 
Remember that today's standard oils do not play well with flat tappet cams. Use a 15-40 oil that is diesel service rated, Shell Rotella, Valvoline All Fleet or Chevron Delo oils still have the phosphorus additive package for flat tappet camshafts, most of the rest do not. You can also add the Lucas oil anti friction phosphorus additive, among others, but that stuff tends to settle to the bottom of the oil pan on engines that are not run often. Phosphorus was removed from modern oils because it was not needed with roller cams and was found to poison catalytic convertors if the engine used any oil.

Dave
The Rotella 15-40 is good stuff. I've used it for 22 years in my '98 2500 diesel. It also has an API rating for gas engines as well as diesel. Not sure about the others, though now I ad ZDDP as the amount has also been reduced in it, also. Not as much as in straight gasoline motor oil, however. The last good API rated oil was CI-4 Plus. Diesels went to roller cams, too.
 
Not sure about a Cummins NTC, but when Cummins and JI Case got together to design the Mid-duty 12 valve motor they designed it with flat solid lifters. Mushroom style I think. Chrysler shopped around for a diesel engine for the RAM line found this and history was made. Last time I checked the Rotella CI-4, CI-4+ was available only in 55 gal drums. Did that once, would not suit now. Finally broke it in with only 148,000 miles on it.
 
I had a 300 K (413 360 hp) and did the GTX 440/375 cam and really loved it! Bit of a lope but very drivable.
 
so i have a question a little off topic I guess. I have a 413 rb engine that I was thinking to rebuild mildly, currently has not been touched and sitting on an engine stand for at least 10 years. Or just rebuild my 360 that is in my 67 fury iii that is al stock. Which would be more fun to drive around.
 
so i have a question a little off topic I guess. I have a 413 rb engine that I was thinking to rebuild mildly, currently has not been touched and sitting on an engine stand for at least 10 years. Or just rebuild my 360 that is in my 67 fury iii that is al stock. Which would be more fun to drive around.
Find a 440 and redo it, 413 rebuild parts are hard to find & more expensive. Good Luck
 
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