727
- Thread starter T5 copper
- Start date
Yes on the ATF 4. Be sure to change the filter while you are at it. Band adjustment is recommended at this time also. You can download the FSM for free at www.mymopar.com which gives detailed instructions on the band adjustment. Your '73 still has a drain plug on the convertor, so be sure to drain the convertor as part of the oil change.
Dave
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Xenon
Senior Member
On the convertor itself... Between two of the bolts to the flex plate....
There is a small access cover on the lower part of the transmission, remove the bolts and turn the convertor until the plug appears at the bottom.
Dave
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Cookie Monster and Dave
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
I need to jump in with a question as well, I have a 77 NYB with a 727. Does that converter have a drain plug as well?
1966newport
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not at all convertors have a plug
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B/RB cast crank motors should have a pair or weights tacked onto the converter, one on either side of the drain plug? Steel crank motors have none. MP used to sell a kit to make a steel crank converter into a cast crank converter, as I recall.
CBODY67
CBODY67
73Coupe
Senior Member
Ok so here's a trick question. My new converter came w/o a drain plug. Can one be installed by drilling and tapping a hole? Or does it have to be a welded-on bung?
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
69 300 vert
Well-Known Member
Yes, it can be drilled, no bung required. We did it on my '69 GP. Magnetize the drill and tap before starting. We didn't have a vacuum cleaner at the shop, if I was doing it at home I'd have one in operation for the duration out of an abundance of caution. 2¢
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
ATF+4 is synthetic. I've always used Dextron-3. The owner of the shop where I got the trans for my Windsor overhauled said to keep using Dex-3, but he recommends adding a bottle of Molyslip ATS. He said he tried ATF+4 in his race transmissions and it didn't hold up well. The 727 handbook also recommends Dex-3. For race applications it recommends Type-F for firmer shifts, but the shifts are too harsh for the street.
I would agree that ATF 4 is probably not the best choice for a race transmission because the friction modifiers make it too slick to get the 727 clutch plates to engage firmly if the stock Mopar clutch and band frictions are used. For street use on your typical land barge, it probably would not be noticeable. ATF 4 has superior high temperature performance and it is probably overkill for what the transmission needs. Mopar also claims ATF 4 is supposed to be backwards compatible in all of the older transmissions and that is what I use in my drivers without any issues.
Dave
Dave
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I think in all the years of working on old mopars I have only ever had one torque converter that actually HAD a drain plug, so if you don't find one it's not that strange.
Most of these transmissions have been rebuilt someplace along the line and many of the aftermarket replacements did not have drain plugs. The factory ones had plugs up until Mopar went to locking convertors on the small block applications in '78. If memory serves me correctly, some of the late '78 low bypass convertors used on the big block also did not have drains, these were a non-locking convertor.
Dave
@Mike66Chryslers and @Davea Lux (and others) -- I have been using B&M Trick Shift transmission fluid as the ATF for Medina and Poppy. Any comments?
@T5 copper -- welcome to the club of '73 Chrysler owners. Any chance you'd post pics of your NYer? Here are a few photos of Ming, which I acquired a couple of months back from a collector's estate. She should be back on the road this coming June.
@T5 copper -- welcome to the club of '73 Chrysler owners. Any chance you'd post pics of your NYer? Here are a few photos of Ming, which I acquired a couple of months back from a collector's estate. She should be back on the road this coming June.
This fluid is a mineral type as opposed to a synthetic. It is not as slick as the synthetic and it is a good choice for a racing transmission where firm shifts are desired with minimal slippage. It is overkill for a street transmission but as long as you are not having issues with excessively rough shifts, it won't hurt anything. You might have to change it more often as opposed to the synthetic, but a lot of that would depend on how hard you drive.
Dave
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
No comment.
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