No power to start - what to look at next???

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I haven't been on the site in a while and I hope everyone is well. Running into the following problem.

When I first put key into ignition I have power to inside the car. Radio, door buzzer. I turn key to start and I get a loud click and lose all power. After a few minutes power does come back to the interior. I have :

1) replaced the battery
2) checked connections at the battery
3) checked connections at the block
4) checked connection at the relay

Where should I go next? I plan on running the bypass\parallel wiring this weekend.

This all started because I didn't get out to start the car for a month or so and she wouldn't start the next time I did try. She was close to running a couple of times when I poured some gas right down the carb, but then I thought the battery went dead when I was getting the "click" sound. Everyone's help is greatly appreciated.

 

[71Polara383]

Check the fusible link on the positive battery cable. My 71 would die randomly until I cleaned that connection up.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I will take a closer look at that. Maybe purchase a new one and install.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Should I try a new starter relay?

 

[71Polara383]

Should I try a new starter relay?

You could they are cheap, but what's cheaper is checking the connection on that fusible link.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I will start there and work my back.

 

[Big_John]

When I first put key into ignition I have power to inside the car. Radio, door buzzer. I turn key to start and I get a loud click and lose all power. After a few minutes power does come back to the interior. I have :

1) replaced the battery
2) checked connections at the battery
3) checked connections at the block
4) checked connection at the relay

Did you check the connection at the starter? This sounds exactly like a bad battery cable connection.

I plan on running the bypass\parallel wiring this weekend.

Don't throw any mods at the wiring until you straighten out the problem. It complicates figuring out what is going on and has nothing to do with the problem.

Should I try a new starter relay?

No, the starter relay wouldn't cause a loss of power.

Again, don't replace anything until you have figured it out or at least have a good idea. Too much new stuff is faulty and can just make more problems.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Thanks for the tip Big John. The cable to the starter is only a couple of years old. I was looking and wondering if the hood hinge may have crimped it though as I do feel or see a flat spot on the cable. The rest of the connection feels tight but I will go underneath this weekend and make sure the connections look clean.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Although the battery terminal connections are tight it seems the negative terminal cable has an issue. I "fiddled around" with the cable and the engine turned over. Once address the cable time to get her started and to start driving. Looking at the starter cable and the link lead me back to the battery. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Wollfen]

MM, sounds like a weak link in the power draw, typically such a click happens when one of the battery terminals isn't done up tight. So I would be checking tightness of all connections not only at the battery but the starter and solenoid too. Then also check the connections for wear and damage.

 

[polara71]

MM, sounds like a weak link in the power draw, typically such a click happens when one of the battery terminals isn't done up tight. So I would be checking tightness of all connections not only at the battery but the starter and solenoid too. Then also check the connections for wear and damage.

I recently had this happen to my dads Newport. Battery terminals were wrenched tight and getting the same symptoms.
While the hood was up and me puzzled dad turned the key . I saw the positive post bubbling at the connection. I pulled the terminal, wire brushed it and haven't had a problem since.
It never appeared to be problematic, it was.

 

[Big_John]

I recently had this happen to my dads Newport. Battery terminals were wrenched tight and getting the same symptoms.
While the hood was up and me puzzled dad turned the key . I saw the positive post bubbling at the connection. I pulled the terminal, wire brushed it and haven't had a problem since.
It never appeared to be problematic, it was.

That's why I like using these green and red thingies under the battery terminals

 

[3175375]

That's why I like using these green and red thingies under the battery terminals

View attachment 379719

There you go, getting technical on us 8^P

 

[polara71]

That's why I like using these green and red thingies under the battery terminals

View attachment 379719

Dumb it down for me

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

The terminals are tight and clean, but the negative terminal is the type that kind of clamps down on the cable. that connection seems to be bad. I am going to get a new terminal, one that seems more sturdy than the current one and clean up the connection. The connection at the starter is solid and I cleaned up and reconnected the cables at the positive terminal. Now that she is cranking I just have to get her running. No gas getting up to the carb right now. Time to force feed her a little gas I guess and get her going.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

That's why I like using these green and red thingies under the battery terminals

View attachment 379719

I have them.

 

[Big_John]

The terminals are tight and clean, but the negative terminal is the type that kind of clamps down on the cable. that connection seems to be bad. I am going to get a new terminal, one that seems more sturdy than the current one and clean up the connection. The connection at the starter is solid and I cleaned up and reconnected the cables at the positive terminal. Now that she is cranking I just have to get her running. No gas getting up to the carb right now. Time to force feed her a little gas I guess and get her going.

Those terminals are a temporary fix. Great for getting the $200 beater through the winter but that's as far as you should go with them. Yea, I know, people use them.... Doesn't make it right.

Negative cables are cheap... Probably not that much more than another temporary clamp.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Those terminals are a temporary fix. Great for getting the $200 beater through the winter but that's as far as you should go with them. Yea, I know, people use them.... Doesn't make it right.

Negative cables are cheap... Probably not that much more than another temporary clamp.

I have about 3 wires running from that terminal, one thick on to the AC compressor, one smaller one to the fender and one small one back to the firewall. Are the smaller wires not necessary?

 

[Big_John]

I have about 3 wires running from that terminal, one thick on to the AC compressor, one smaller one to the fender and one small one back to the firewall. Are the smaller wires not necessary?

Usually there's just one smaller (#10?) wire going to the fender. There are negative cables that have the second wire with a crimp connector so you can splice the old cable on. If you feel you need the wire going back to the firewall, connect it at the fender ground connection.

This is very common and often the cable is sold by length along with application.

 

[Big_John]

There you go, getting technical on us 8^P

Dumb it down for me

If I walked into a parts store right now, I wouldn't have a clue what to call them... But if I walked into the local NAPA and told them "red and green thingies that go under the battery terminal" they would know.