Clearcoat peeling..any suggestions??

cbarge

World Famous Barge in a Budget
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
5,749
Reaction score
9,907
Location
Kingston Ontario Eh?
Maggie's car Frankie aka 1969 Fury III she bought it last year.
We knew the clearcoat has issues.
Upon doing repairs on the rear window the clear started to come off.
The paint is fine--just the clear is gone milky or white and then comes off.

Amy tips or tricks to fix the clear without repainting the car?
Not sure of we can just sand the clear and redo it--not sure.
Mainly on the trunk and hood areas the sides are really nice..
Thanks in advance.
20200529_221910.jpg

In this pppic the hood is milky..
20200526_205740.jpg
 
I have sanded and recleared before with mixed success. The problem you will be facing is that the remaining clearcoat may be just as damaged and still lift regardless of the new clear on top of it. may be worth a shot, but may also be wasting time and money. If its just one panel...I would consider giving it a shot.
 
thats a sign of a poor repaint
I agree.
Shame since the car is very straight,clean and no rust.
Funny thing is the side panels are not affected..
Never winter driven but did sit outside for a year prior to previous owner buying it.
Almost like the same issue GM had with their cars in the 90's.
70219567_375553360041957_6758928615682867200_n.jpg
 
I'm no painter but the only way I see this being successful is if you can sand ALL the clear off which means some of the base coat has to come with. If the previous guy shot lots of base, you should have enough left to get consistent colour when you reclear it. That's a pretty big if assuming it's not something in the base causing it or materials mismatch because some dufus decided to mix and match base and clear because he got a deal on some off brand clear.

Kevin
 
Probably not worth trying to just repair the bad spots. You'll be chasing bad spots all around the car. For instance if you just repaint the top it might peel on the fenders when you pull the tape off. You might be able to save the sides below the molding but at that point you might as well do a complete. I know it's not what you wanted to hear, sorry.
 
if that is metallic paint, sanding it will make it look worse so re-coating might not be an option. if you can get a close color match, you might be able to get away with re-painting the flat surfaces.
 
Get it painted in Acrylic Enamel !
I believe that BC/CC is acrylic enamel Or do you mean "single stage" acrylic enamel, which is what it came with originally?

The de-lamination issues which GM and Ford had in the '90s was not specifically to the clear coat, but to the base color and the primer under it. The "tape test" (putting a strip of masking tape on the paint, pulling it off. If the paint came with it, the vehicle got a full repaint, under warranty (IF the original warranty was still operational). But after that initial warranty period, most just peeled. Some colors had more issues than other colors, as I recall.

You might do some gentle scuffing of the existing paint/clear to feather the edges where it's already peeled and possibly where it's getting loose and about to peel. Then mist a few coats of clear back onto those spots. Mixed clear in a Preval sprayer might work pretty well? Just worry about where it's loose/peeled, not where it's milky. Keep it looking decent, then plan on a full repaint sometime in the future, even if it might be from one of the paint/body shop chain stores.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I believe that BC/CC is acrylic enamel Or do you mean "single stage" acrylic enamel, which is what it came with originally?

The de-lamination issues which GM and Ford had in the '90s was not specifically to the clear coat, but to the base color and the primer under it. The "tape test" (putting a strip of masking tape on the paint, pulling it off. If the paint came with it, the vehicle got a full repaint, under warranty (IF the original warranty was still operational). But after that initial warranty period, most just peeled. Some colors had more issues than other colors, as I recall.

You might do some gentle scuffing of the existing paint/clear to feather the edges where it's already peeled and possibly where it's getting loose and about to peel. Then mist a few coats of clear back onto those spots. Mixed clear in a Preval sprayer might work pretty well? Just worry about where it's loose/peeled, not where it's milky. Keep it looking decent, then plan on a full repaint sometime in the future, even if it might be from one of the paint/body shop chain stores.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
GM & Ford ??? Don’t leave mother out of this as she ain’t innocent either Lol!!!

My Shelby charger had the same type of leprosy and it was unfixable. It’s kind of like trying to reglue an 80’s headliner in a GM. Once the foam turns to powder no amount of work will make the glue stick to the liner. We tried sanding off the bad clear and my buddy reshot the clear at his body shop. Lasted less than 6 months. Complete waste of time & money. I traded it straight up for a `69 Dart. Good riddance.
 
I knew about GM from my work, plus Fords, but had little exposure to Chrysler issues back then. Many Ford and GM dealers expanded their paint shops with new downdraft booths just to do the volume of those warranty re-paints. Light silvers were always flaky, back then.

GM periodically had paint issues, back in the '80s. There was one year old Corvette, normal red, which turned pinkish red overnight. The '78 Camaro flexible bumpers were always a shade off from the paint on the body. "Flex agent" caused that color shift, they claimed, as Chrysler had no such issues with their flexible fillers and such. One year, in the middle '80s, there was a blue on pickups (turned out to be 1968 Chrysler B5 Blue, with clearcoat) where the paint was soft. Had to paint them, too!

By the time the delamination issues were progressing in vehicle age, toward the end of the basic paint warranty period, if a piece of tape was applied to the outside rear view mirror, if paint was removed, it got painted. If no paint came off with the tape, no warranty repaint (they waited too long to get it looked at).

Can't forget the atmospheric chemical rain issues, either! GM came out with a car wash liquid for use on new vehicles (in their make ready wash/clean up. Reading the instructions one day, they said the wash people had to wear a haz-mat suit when using that liquid!

Best thing was in '78, when they started painting pickups with water-based paints. Some would lose their two-tone in the coin-op car wash bays, in sheets. The paint underneath what came off was as shiny as ever! Whoops!

PM me about the "water injected" Cross-Fire Z/28s.

Back to the orig reply . . . I replied as I did, knowing that the best thing would be a complete repaint, but also knowing that a short-term "make it look better" fix might be desired. A crap-shoot at best, but might work for a year or so. Something I might try myself. But it could well be like trying to re-seal a urethane-retained windshield without removing the glass. Didn't have a lot of luck with that, either, but had to try.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Late 80’s through early 90”s all of the manufacturers had their issues with de-lamination. IIRC they were trying to comply with new EPA guidelines for using less toxic solvent based paints. To correct the problem you had to sand down to bare metal and then repaint.
 
Probably not worth trying to just repair the bad spots. You'll be chasing bad spots all around the car. For instance if you just repaint the top it might peel on the fenders when you pull the tape off. You might be able to save the sides below the molding but at that point you might as well do a complete. I know it's not what you wanted to hear, sorry.
No problem. That is what I needed to hear.
In the meantime we are going to leave it alone. Time to start saving to do it right.
 
The clear on one of the fenders on my 94 caravan is doing that, it's not nearly the eyesore you have being white. But still sucks. Good Luck
 
I had same in my 93 daily driven Audi. I just sprayed some rattle can clear basically without any masking on the problem areas once or twice per year and it worked just fine. It wasn't a show car for sure but easy ten footer.
 
Thanks everybody!! :thumbsup:
No quick fix for this issue.
Just let sleeping dogs lie until the paint needs serious attention.
In the meantime getting Frankie on the road is priority. :steering:
 
Some good wax may help make the hood look better. And for the time being, you could touch up the missing clear coat with more clear. Napa has spray bombs of a product I believe they call blending solvent. It's really thinned out clear, perfect for these types of repairs.
 
I took body shop in college in the mid 80's, cc/c was still a new product (just came out). I looked up when the 2 stage product came into being to confirm my dealings with the product. I was not impressed then and am less impressed now because they do not have durability. The color coat is dull and the shiny clear coat is only about as thick as a piece of notebook paper, about 3 mils not very thick. Frankie aka 1969 Fury III has been repainted at some point in it's life. The best thing to do is strip it down, find all the problems that some one has covered in "lip stick and mascara". Then paint with a single stage enamel which is original to the car. If you can find a painter to do it.
Now there is a trick that can be done, and that is to add a 1/2 cap to a full cap of flex seal for plastic bumpers to the paint and if it ever gets in an accident the paint will flow with the dent. Along with that if you want you can put a single stage clear on top . Talk about depth. see the numbers of a yardstick clear as day. I did this to my 1979 Magnum while I was in the autobody class. Also while there I faded in half a car, was told it couldn't be done,but that's another story.
 
Just so everyone knows base coat/clear coat (bc /cc)aka color coat/ clear coat (cc/cc) came into being in 1984 and 1st year used by chrysler was in 1985. In 1986 the industry tried to use a water based product to cut down on the CFC from the solvents used by the enamel paint, disaster. This was particular application method was reintroduced in the 2000's. Just an fyi.
 
Maggie's car Frankie aka 1969 Fury III she bought it last year.
We knew the clearcoat has issues.
Upon doing repairs on the rear window the clear started to come off.
The paint is fine--just the clear is gone milky or white and then comes off.

Amy tips or tricks to fix the clear without repainting the car?
Not sure of we can just sand the clear and redo it--not sure.
Mainly on the trunk and hood areas the sides are really nice..
Thanks in advance.
View attachment 380015
In this pppic the hood is milky..
View attachment 380016
 
Back
Top