4bbl kickdown

[B-Rode]

70 Sport Fury 383

Just installed a Holley 750 street demon. Runs great but tranny kickdown is currently not working. All the parts are as far forward as possible, so I'll need a new bracket or something. Any part recommendations?

Would this work?
Kick Down Linkage 1969-70 383-4, Automatic Transmission Kickdown Linkage/Components, 178-KDL110 Reproduction, NOS and Used Mopar Muscle Car Parts

Or is there a cheaper solution?

 

[The Goose]

The free solution is to add or remove length from the rod. Only works if you or a friend have a welder.

Measure once cut twice.

 

[traintech55]

Edelbrock makes an adapter for Chrysler products. I have used them on Holley carbs.

 

[furious70]

You can also just put a small bolt and nut in the slot to shorten it up - totally adjustable and can be removed with no after effects

 

[CBODY67]

What was the orig carb? When I put the 9801 TQ and Torker 383 on my '67 Newport 383 4bbl, I had to get the Edelbrock extension adapter for the kickdown linkage. An easy installation. From there, adj the kickdown linkage such that it gets into 3rd at min throttle at: 25mph with 3.23, 28mph w/2.76. Both with H78-15 equivalent tires. Which should put the rpm back to right at 1000mph after the shift. Makes it drive MUCH better, from my experiences. Which equates to about 2 more turns past the factory 2 turns pre-load adjustment. BUT mine had the threaded rod, but you should have the slotted rod adjustment. So aim for those min-throttle 2-3 upshift speeds.

Unless your's is new enough for the part-throttle kickdown, the only kickdown will be at/near WOT, unless done manually at part throttle.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[B-Rode]

What was the orig carb? When I put the 9801 TQ and Torker 383 on my '67 Newport 383 4bbl, I had to get the Edelbrock extension adapter for the kickdown linkage. An easy installation. From there, adj the kickdown linkage such that it gets into 3rd at min throttle at: 25mph with 3.23, 28mph w/2.76. Both with H78-15 equivalent tires. Which should put the rpm back to right at 1000mph after the shift. Makes it drive MUCH better, from my experiences. Which equates to about 2 more turns past the factory 2 turns pre-load adjustment. BUT mine had the threaded rod, but you should have the slotted rod adjustment. So aim for those min-throttle 2-3 upshift speeds.

Unless your's is new enough for the part-throttle kickdown, the only kickdown will be at/near WOT, unless done manually at part throttle.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Original carb was just the stock Carter style 2 barrel.
Would you happen to know a part # for the eddy kickdown piece? I'm having a hard time finding anything.
Thanks!

 

[saylor]

you have any pics of what doin right now with your setup?

unless you got about tree fiddy to blow on that setup you linked to, I think you should let us examine the situation first, if you can post a pic.

myself I got some thread rod of same TPI as the kicker rod and a coupler and just extended that bad boy. for like about 5 bucks probably.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[CBODY67]

Original carb was just the stock Carter style 2 barrel.
Would you happen to know a part # for the eddy kickdown piece? I'm having a hard time finding anything.
Thanks!

The particular kickdown rod extension is specific to the ROD kickdown set-up on the '68 and prior TorqueFlites. Where the adjustment is on the front end of the kickdown rod, where the slotted end screws onto the rod and the adjustment happens.

The '69+ kickdown "rod" has a slotted adjustment at the BACK of the rod, where the front rod slides under a bolt that it tightened when the correct adjustment is attained. Either by the FSM method or by the trial-error method I mentioned above.

Might need to bite the bullet and spring for one of the correct repro items which match what you need for a 4bbl application.

All the current Edelbrock manifold installation instructions mention is that any linkage mounting brackets might need to be modified to work with their intakes, unfortunately.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[B-Rode]

you have any pics of what doin right now with your setup?

unless you got about tree fiddy to blow on that setup you linked to, I think you should let us examine the situation first, if you can post a pic.

myself I got some thread rod of same TPI as the kicker rod and a coupler and just extended that bad boy. for like about 5 bucks probably.

try not to die -

- saylor

Here's a couple photos if they help.

 

[Big_John]

First thing is the spring for the "kickdown" is on incorrectly. It should pull the lever up against the throttle.

 

[CBODY67]

First thing is the spring for the "kickdown" is on incorrectly. It should pull the lever up against the throttle.

View attachment 386971

View attachment 386972

This is the illustration of how the '66-'67 (and possibly '65 and '68) kickdown linkage. The Edelbrock kickdown rod extension I referenced screws onto #12 and then the slotted end is reinstalled and the linkage is adjusted, with #9 keeping everything in reference. What's on m '70 DH43N0D is completely different.

Thanks for those pictures, Big_John!

Enjoy!
CBODY67