1966 Polara 500 Ragtop

Success!
Car is idling away and pulley didn't fly off. Belt is tight and no flopping about.
There's just a little vibration, so I'll build a 2nd strap and attach it where the battery grounds.
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Hopefully this will last until I get the vintage air setup.
I also want to thank @saylor for the idea!
 
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Mr. Denkler.... @Tom Denkler

I'm going to be as polite as possible and ask you to step off this subject on my build thread. Especially since you insinuated I'm a liar. I know what I saw.

Please start a new thread if you want to debate production numbers. I'm sure you'll get a better audience.

I also want you to understand, after reading the thread you listed...that the two 4 speed drop tops listed are not the total production of 383 4 speed cars....merely 2 cars sold at the same dealer in Indiana. The OP even states that in his first post. His post has nothing to do with total production. He never states that.
Sorry.
 
The build continues...
Today I attempted to degrease my intake manifold. I removed about 40 + years of accumulated filth and grime with the first pass.
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Never knew the throttle return spring was yellow! Imagine that!

Pulled this out of the back of the valley pan. Need to find another piece to replace it!

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We tried and failed to get the convertibles brakes working better. My team and I are convinced there are other problems. There's no pressure in the rear system. Something is blocking fluid flow down to a trickle out the rear bleeders.

The rear brake hose is the first suspect. So I've ordered a new rear hose. we will also flush the brake lines.

While not a prime suspect, we will replace the master cylinder with a new unit. So I'm trying to to find a core booster to send to a rebuilder.
I've placed an ad in the parts wanted section. Some kind soul should have a Midland- Ross booster stashed and may want to sell it.
 
We tried and failed to get the convertibles brakes working better. My team and I are convinced there are other problems. There's no pressure in the rear system. Something is blocking fluid flow down to a trickle out the rear bleeders.

The rear brake hose is the first suspect. So I've ordered a new rear hose. we will also flush the brake lines.

While not a prime suspect, we will replace the master cylinder with a new unit. So I'm trying to to find a core booster to send to a rebuilder.
I've placed an ad in the parts wanted section. Some kind soul should have a Midland- Ross booster stashed and may want to sell it.
I have a spare booster for you. PM me so I remember when I get home from Carlisle.
 
I found the place in Dallas that does Boosters. 2-3 day turn around from receipt of part. Gonna pull mine here and send it.
 
Glad I could help! :lol:


Well sir...if we could agree on a price and shipping of two wheel covers and a complete LH turn signal assembly we talked about this spring, that would be helpful. :poke::poke:

Pm me if you still got 'em. My situation isn't going to get better, so let me give somebody the money. Otherwise it gets spent in C body farcebook groups!
Thanks Scott!
 
Well sir...if we could agree on a price and shipping of two wheel covers and a complete LH turn signal assembly we talked about this spring, that would be helpful. :poke::poke:

Pm me if you still got 'em. My situation isn't going to get better, so let me give somebody the money. Otherwise it gets spent in C body farcebook groups!
Thanks Scott!
I'll dig some out for you, things are settling down for me now. I'll on you later this evening.
 
So after soaking the line connections all week with various penetrates, We were able to successfully remove and replace the rear brake hose.

We couldn't blow air through the hose So I cut it open.

I hope you can see how plugged it is. With a new hose, braking improved immensely, but I could still not lock up any tires. Miz Ruby wanted more.
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We adjusted the front brakes a bit tighter and I was finally able to lock the fronts. I tried again as I approached my house after a short drive and locked up all four wheels.

Success!
Now I have a manual drum brake car.

Next I ordered the AC insulation kit for the intake manifold, and seat belt bolt covers.
 
So after soaking the line connections all week with various penetrates, We were able to successfully remove and replace the rear brake hose.

We couldn't blow air through the hose So I cut it open.

I hope you can see how plugged it is. With a new hose, braking improved immensely, but I could still not lock up any tires. Miz Ruby wanted more.
View attachment 391116

We adjusted the front brakes a bit tighter and I was finally able to lock the fronts. I tried again as I approached my house after a short drive and locked up all four wheels.

Success!
Now I have a manual drum brake car.

Next I ordered the AC insulation kit for the intake manifold, and seat belt bolt covers.
I have never cut one open, but the internal deterioration I have heard about is real.
 
While playing the wait game, I can fix a few other things I did, but felt rushed.
I shortened the power steering return hose and re-positioned it Messy, but necessary.

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I wasn't happy with the Land Rover steering coupler mod. But I got it so everything went together like it should. Everything is tight but flexy.I need one clip to finish the job.
The rear brake line is re-positioned and the junction block modified. The rear hole in the block was plugged and an adapter for the front line added.
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Things to do...
Booster's back, about a week turnaround from Mesquite TX. Not the factory dichromate, but I don't care. The glossy black is certainly nicer than Cardone gray.
Adjustable proportioning valve arrived today. The bracket I bent up to mount it on the inner fender looks like it may be usable.
Need one more adapter, and I need to r&r the stoplight switch.
 
I also ran my fender tag today. I had a couple of of my Mopar buds question that the 4bbl intake and carb was original to the car. It spurned on my search for a proper decoder and I found the 66-67 Charger site.
So my engine code is 62...383 4bbl 325 hp. 5 for Torqueflite auto.
However the mystery continues...A Polara 500 convertible should have been a DM price code according to most sources. Yet this car is a DL code. It is an early production model... December 8th 1965. It has the correct dash emblem.
My 66 Polara 500 convertible was a DL too, with a 383 2bbl.
 
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