383 Fuel Pump replacement - are there tricks?

Ed Wagner

Ed Wagner

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Well, last night the fuel pump died a mile from home. My dad told me not to mess with it - take it in. But if I do, chances are the kid working on it wasn't even thought of when my 70 was built...so will he know what to do either?
Question seems to be, how to keep the pushrod from falling. Is there a trick? on SB Chevy you can slide a hacksaw blade in there to catch it. I did some Googling on the 383 though and it indicates there is a plug that is at the end of the pushrod bore that allows it to drop out of the car? This true? The you grease it before sticking it back in. Sounds like it easier to just suck it up and remove the alternator too?
Advice would be appreciated! Thanks.
 
Yep , some grease will help!!

BTW....how do you know it,s the pump?
 
Last edited:
Ed Wagner said:
Well, last night the fuel pump died a mile from home. My dad told me not to mess with it - take it in. But if I do, chances are the kid working on it wasn't even thought of when my 70 was built...so will he know what to do either?
Question seems to be, how to keep the pushrod from falling. Is there a trick? on SB Chevy you can slide a hacksaw blade in there to catch it. I did some Googling on the 383 though and it indicates there is a plug that is at the end of the pushrod bore that allows it to drop out of the car? This true? The you grease it before sticking it back in. Sounds like it easier to just suck it up and remove the alternator too?
Advice would be appreciated! Thanks.
Click to expand...

I slathered some axle grease on the push rod, and it stayed up long enough, so I could get the pump arm under it and push the pump in place. Easy-peazy. . .
 
Removing the alternator makes the job so much easier.... the rod can be a little tricky but u should be able to get it to stay back. I know it can be frustrating but just stay patient and steady. I saw a video where the manifold bolt was used to hold the pushrod on a Chevy but iam not sure if it can be done on a Chrysler. I just replaced my fuel pump. Stay positive!!!
 
While you’ve got it apart that far remove the pushrod and check the length.
 
I just replaced mine last weekend. I removed the plug that holds the rod in and just held it up with a small long screw driver. Slipped the pump in and removed the screw driver. Better access from below.
 
On the SBChevy, there are TWO lengths of bolts which hold the pump onto the cover plate. There is also a bolt on the front of the block, whose hole indexes with the pump pushrod's location. Remove the front bolt, then the (front, I believe) pump mounting bolt, put THAT bolt in the front bolt hole, screwing in it gently, which will then hold the pushrod in place while the pump is changed. When done, remove the front bolt and put it back in place to hold the pump on, replace the orig bolt in the front of the block. NO hacksaw blade needed. All pretty easy to do, once you know about the bolts!

On the B/RB engines, seems like there is a plug with a 1/2" square socket in it? If that's the access hole for the pushrod, then how far might it be further screwed-in to contact the pushrod? THAT might be the similar trick on the B/RB Chryslers?

When I changed the cam in my '77 Camaro, I asked about keeping the fuel pump pushrod in place. Most mentioned the "heavy grease" method, but that didn't work for me. Then my machine shop operative mentioned the bolt swap deal, which I found to work quite well. BTAIM

CBODY67
 
CBODY67 said:
On the SBChevy, there are TWO lengths of bolts which hold the pump onto the cover plate. There is also a bolt on the front of the block, whose hole indexes with the pump pushrod's location. Remove the front bolt, then the (front, I believe) pump mounting bolt, put THAT bolt in the front bolt hole, screwing in it gently, which will then hold the pushrod in place while the pump is changed. When done, remove the front bolt and put it back in place to hold the pump on, replace the orig bolt in the front of the block. NO hacksaw blade needed. All pretty easy to do, once you know about the bolts!

On the B/RB engines, seems like there is a plug with a 1/2" square socket in it? If that's the access hole for the pushrod, then how far might it be further screwed-in to contact the pushrod? THAT might be the similar trick on the B/RB Chryslers?

When I changed the cam in my '77 Camaro, I asked about keeping the fuel pump pushrod in place. Most mentioned the "heavy grease" method, but that didn't work for me. Then my machine shop operative mentioned the bolt swap deal, which I found to work quite well. BTAIM

CBODY67
Click to expand...
Stop that GM talk! :poke:

The plug has nothing to do with keeping the fuel pump rod in place, it allows it to be removed that way vs fidgeting with a needle nose pliers to get it out. I've always held it in place and installed the pump. It helps if the cam lobe is at its most distant point from the pump.
 
The plug is simply for simple removal of the push rod. Remove the rod and check for excessive wear and replace if required. Use a big gob of vaseline to hold it in there while you slip the pump in place, and yes, if the vaseline is insufficient to hold up the rod, you can use a thin tool up through the plug hole (piece of coat hanger will suffice and allow room for the pump arm). Yes, rotating the motor to have the cam lobe make the rod sit as high as possible will help too.
 
I don't ever remember that changing a fuel pump on anything being all that hard.
The end of the lever is beveled for a reason, so insert down, a little wiggly wiggly to push onto rod, (it takes a certain 'feel') and bolt it up.

If all else fails I just found a pretty good pictorial instruction over in Motor Home Land.
get-photo.jpg


Here:
Photo albums

Also another unknown tip to prevent the pour gas down carb and start a engine fire crowd.
If you need to prime the carb bowl with gas before starting a fresh engine rebuild/install or carb rebuild, just back out the fuel pump bolts enough to 'Hand Pump' the fuel pump by hand. Again a certain feel is required and don't go wild and destroy the gasket. Also pay attention to bumping the starter to get the rod cam on the high spot. (I never really bother with this).

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

.
 
It will also save you a lot of trouble to source a Carter pump. The ChiCom crap they sell at AutoBone and CarCrap will usually fail in short order. Replace the fuel filter while you are servicing the pump.

Dave
 
A blob of grease on the end of the rod keeps it there in place, tip...put your thumb on the push rod and get someone to turn the engine over by hand slowly, when the rod is as far back (in) as it will go, put the pump on, there is hardly any preload on the pump arm at that point and its simple to fit instead of fighting the preload.
You want the rod in the "low" spot", not high spot
 
Yes, the rod needs to rest on the back of the cam, hence, "rod as far "in" as poss, gives almost zero preload.
Its not totally necc though, if you are a mechanic you can just work around it. Just makes it easier for folk who do not do this job everyday
 
Wow! I knew I was in the right place. Thanks for all the help guys!

I'm sure its the pump. It's not getting gas to to the carb. If you put some in the carb it fires right up but dies once its burned out. So it's not ignition. And I have have been driving cars before when the pump goes out...first you loose power and then soon after it dies. Restarts and immediately dies.
 
Ed Wagner said:
Wow! I knew I was in the right place. Thanks for all the help guys!

I'm sure its the pump. It's not getting gas to to the carb. If you put some in the carb it fires right up but dies once its burned out. So it's not ignition. And I have have been driving cars before when the pump goes out...first you loose power and then soon after it dies. Restarts and immediately dies.
Click to expand...

When you replace the fuel pump, be sure to also replace the filter:

More Information for WIX 33032

You can also get the pump from RockAuto:

More Information for CARTER M4589
 
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