71 Imperial 4dr A/C (repair or replace?)

I need to fully test the horn system to see if it's the horns, relay or something else, hopefully I can do that this week. I am making a "To Do" list for the car so, as the saying goes, "all things come to those who wait", I'll get to it all and maybe get some help along the way, which I deeply appreciate. I was under the hood again today checking some things out and (not sure why I didn't see it before) then this blue sticker pops right out at me. The sticker said the system was upgraded to R134 but in the boxes where things are written in, all the text was faded so I couldn't really read it. I'll be taking my digital camera out in the next few days and get a bunch of pictures of that sticker and with one of the paint programs I have on my computer I should be able to bring out (hopefully) most if not all the text that's faded. Knowing this though it's just a matter of getting the right person to run another test on it (someone that knows old systems better I'm thinking) and see where it stands. I have ordered a few things to make the car more complete, like old Chrysler sales books, options sheets and other fluff to help make it stand out. The fact is, I was hoping to get a B body Mopar but now that I have the Imperial in my garage and I feel good about the sale and all, I'm loving it more every day. They are a beautiful car, no doubt about it.

I decoded the fender tag on it (did I mention that?) so I'll be looking for a build sheet on it soon too. I also got a list from the guy I bought it from of what he did when he had it, I don't think getting a history as complete as I can is a bad thing and will help the next owner, probably after I kick off to one of my kids.
 
You won't be able to get a build sheet from FCA historical as they have nothing after 1967 unfortunately, seem to recall those records were lost years ago when the records were moved. Perhaps one is under one of the seats or on top of the glove box where assembly workers often stuffed them once finished with the car.
 
If your car was converted to R134 be careful how you recharge it after fixing the compressor seal. R134 PAG oil apparently builds up in the evaporator and condenser if the system is not used for a long period and does not return easily to the RV-2 style compressor when it is recharged. This results in compressor failure which is what happened to me resulting in my conversion job. To do it right with the RV-2 you will have to flush the evaporator and condenser, check the oil level in the compressor and replenish, and replace the O-rings before doing any recharge.
 
I'm a firm believer in having the horn on the steering wheel. In a panic situation, you won't think to dive under the wheel for a button. The steering wheel can be replaced with a conventional horn equipped wheel (from another Chrysler without the rim-blow feature) until you get the original repaired or replaced.
 
From what I can tell by enhancing portions of the label, it looks like the service date is about June 2014, I'll post a picture and maybe someone else can do better. Right now I'm making a "To Do" list of things I want to do yet this year. The car does not have right side mirror but I found one already so it's a matter of putting it on (the right way). I have tape to lay down before making a dimple and then hole but getting the stuff together in my tool chest. I do have several switches but want to test the horns themselves to see if they work, I should be able to run a hot line to it and just ground it to body I'm thinking but there is a test procedure in the manual.

I checked under the front seat and pulled the rear seat bottom but no build sheet so far, I'll check on top of glove box in the next few days. I still need to get a bulb for the rear courtesy light, not sure of the size but I'll check book on it. If I get together with Doc before the end of the month, he may have an idea or 2 on the A/C but I'll think more serious on getting that going next year. Here's a couple picts, an original and one where I enhanced to top a bit, it's not real good but I'm not a wiz at graphics programs.

P8120015.JPG


test1.jpg
 
Right now I'm getting 4 new (KYB) shocks put on but I need to find the right place locally to do a good check on the A/C. From everything I can tell, the compressor is good (and converted to R134a) but I want to have the system checked to see what is needed to get it back in operation. I'm not sure but maybe Doc knows a place (other then his mech which is very busy) that can do that. I'd like to have it done for next summer. I also want to put a Right Side mirror on this year yet, I have the mirror already but Fear is holding me back at this point as I don't want to mess anything up. I have the drill, tape (for the door) but not sure about a plate that I think fits in the underside of the door. From what I've seen (in checking) I shouldn't need that, just the molded (rubber) base and then to make sure the screw holes are sealed to prevent moisture from getting inside the door. Like before, the longer I have the car the more I'm loving it.
 
We'll have to get together with the Imperials when life gets a little less busy. It's been crazy at work and at home with the new pup, etc...
My Prior Lake mechanic pushed me back with other customer projects and the back to college kid car rush before school just started up. I just snuck in for a idle adjustment yesterday on the black one for a quick fix. I have not had any air conditioning issues addressed on any of mine to date. I'm likely gonna add a right side mirror to McGoldy over the winter. Once I get the green one back from Mankato(this month?) it would be a cool photo op with your green one.
 
Okay, I figure I'll use the same thread to do an update, it seems to make sense.

I found someone to check out the A/C on my 71 Imperial and they did find a few leaks (they said they can fix) but the compressor is not hooked/wired up. I would like to find out if there's some kind of wiring harness/connector that goes to, or comes from the comp. When we looked at it there is 1 (one) wire coming from the compressor but we are unsure where it should connect to. From what I've seen (from the manual) that seems to be the only wire from the comp (RV2). The compressor itself looks good, may even be a rebuilt or had been rebuilt, we're not sure on that but there is a R134 sticker mounted so at some point it was switched over.

My question, is there just the 1 wire from the compressor or multiple wires? Where would it/they connect to? (I can post pictures if that would help)
Would it be better/easier just to get a Sanden kit and loose the RV2 all together? I've seen the Sanden kits go from $300 to $800+ but not sure which
I may need if I go that route. I only drive the car in the summertime and we've been in the 90 degree+ range more often then not lately.
DOC: do any of your Imperials have working A/C and did you ever get a-hold of the A/C guy you mentioned?

The car still runs/rides great but I'd like to lose the 4/60 air if I can. (let me know if pictures of and around my compressor would help)
 
The standard air compressor will have one wire going into the clutch assembly it will be a heavy gauge blue wire. If the car has ATC there will be a second wire to the rear of the compressor at the suction port. The wire for the clutch can be seen on the photo below sticking out on the LH side.

Dave

RV 2 compressor.jpg
 
Per your previous posts, the car has ATCII. The engine wire harness (alongside the right valve cover) will have the wires/connectors somewhere near the distributor.
 
Is the connection on the suction side part of a brass, fine mech inset in the line? Just curious what that is about?

Thanks,
CBODY67
 
CBODY67 said:
Is the connection on the suction side part of a brass, fine mech inset in the line? Just curious what that is about?

Thanks,
CBODY67
Click to expand...
They put a compressor suction screen over the suction port to keep bits of rubber debris, wear metal and other debris out of the EPR valve and the compressor.

Dave.
 
If your goal is to have the best cooling available for a driver car and original appearance is not critical you should convert to a modern Sanden compressor and a modern condenser as this will give you the most efficient system for using R134.

DSCF6309.JPG


DSCF6313.JPG


DSCF6314.JPG
 
TxDon said:
If your goal is to have the best cooling available for a driver car and original appearance is not critical you should convert to a modern Sanden compressor and a modern condenser as this will give you the most efficient system for using R134.
Click to expand...
I agree, nice job! The timing of your post is perfect. I'm doing the conversion on my 68 Fury right now. Going the same direction you did with the hard lines off the compressor. Makes a much cleaner install with that compressor rear head. The only thing i'm finding is the air cleaner doesn't clear the discharge port. Not sure what i'm gonna do there. Does it work well for you?

Back to the original post, I have a 73 Imperial that i need to fix the ATCII. That's the next project. Beyond the refrigeration system being intact, you need to check the servo under the hood and the amplifier under the dash. There are also a couple of vacuum switches and check valves that need to work. Since yours was working fairly recently it sounds like you may be ok there. I would recommend not changing the compressor at this point. Once you know the controls are ok maybe. It can get really expensive especially if you are paying labor.
I need to replace the servo and amp. My compressor turns so I'm just going to put in new o-rings and oil with r134 and see what happens.
 
BigAsAWhale said:
I agree, nice job! The timing of your post is perfect. I'm doing the conversion on my 68 Fury right now. Going the same direction you did with the hard lines off the compressor. Makes a much cleaner install with that compressor rear head. The only thing i'm finding is the air cleaner doesn't clear the discharge port. Not sure what i'm gonna do there. Does it work well for you?

Back to the original post, I have a 73 Imperial that i need to fix the ATCII. That's the next project. Beyond the refrigeration system being intact, you need to check the servo under the hood and the amplifier under the dash. There are also a couple of vacuum switches and check valves that need to work. Since yours was working fairly recently it sounds like you may be ok there. I would recommend not changing the compressor at this point. Once you know the controls are ok maybe. It can get really expensive especially if you are paying labor.
I need to replace the servo and amp. My compressor turns so I'm just going to put in new o-rings and oil with r134 and see what happens.
Click to expand...

You probably already know this but if not, the place to go for a rebuilt servo under the hood and the amplifier is:

Performance Analysis Co.

slide1.jpg


I bought those components from them almost 10 years ago now and my system is still functioning in my 72 Imperial. Plus their rebuilt servos come with aluminum cases that prevent the splitting and leaking (in about two years of use) with the original ones made of bakelite.
 
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