Listen Up All You Newbies

More good advice from your Uncle Tony:thumbsup:


Great advice per usual, no doubt. One slip early on but corrected himself referring to the starter relay as a starter solenoid and I can admit, when I was first understanding wiring diagrams and parts, I confused the two because people were using the terms interchangeably. For the possible newbie who may be in my old shoes, there is a difference between the starter solenoid and the starter relay.
 
Great advice per usual, no doubt. One slip early on but corrected himself referring to the starter relay as a starter solenoid and I can admit, when I was first understanding wiring diagrams and parts, I confused the two because people were using the terms interchangeably. For the possible newbie who may be in my old shoes, there is a difference between the starter solenoid and the starter relay.
That comes from Ford calling it a starter "solenoid" and Chrysler calling it a "relay". If you really look up the meaning, "solenoid" refers to the electromagnet portion and really not what it does in the end, so it can go either way, but in keeping with the language that Chrysler uses, yep, it's a relay.

It's like "sure grip", "cigar lighter (personal favorite), "stub frame" etc.

Of course, so many use the incorrect GM term "kickdown linkage" for the transmission throttle rod (or linkage, Chrysler uses both terms) and another GM term "cruise control" for the speed control that it's become part of the language.

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Don't forget about the "Stub" frame, not a sub-frame or k member or anything else.

As a newbie back in October 2013, I got whipped good over that faux paux:lol:
 
I only recently learned about the Chrysler ammeter problems when I rehabbed my instrument panel. It was apparent my ammeter suffered a meltdown at some point during the car’s life. I was directed to a couple of great posts by @cbarge and I did all the ammeter bypass work he recommended. Even found some NOS fusible links with the rubber markers on them.

good stuff. Thanks for sharing the video.
 
Great advice per usual, no doubt. One slip early on but corrected himself referring to the starter relay as a starter solenoid and I can admit, when I was first understanding wiring diagrams and parts, I confused the two because people were using the terms interchangeably. For the possible newbie who may be in my old shoes, there is a difference between the starter solenoid and the starter relay.

Love Uncle Tony
 
Dealt with it the other night with @david hill the other night on the side of the road.

My ragtops alternator shorted out and we were diagnosed and on the road again about 20 min later.

I repaired it and added another proper fusible link the same night. Bad alternator cause it to burn up.

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I should order some fusible links, what's a good source for them?

I have a -71 New Yorker under slow construction... :D
 
If you are going for concourse then you spend the money to get the right link.
Otherwise you can buy it by the foot and any AP store & make your own...
 
The first month I had Mathilda, I had a fire arising from lack of a fusible link for the alternator, ultimately caused by a busted insulator/motor mount permitting the engine to ride up and short the charging stud to the fender. I was BLESSED in that this happened just a block or so from home, and I was able to stop the insulation fire in my wiring quickly. Even so, I had to replace all the major power feeds under the hood and dash. I bought a reel of #12 AWG fusible link wire that week, started making up my own links, had a couple of those burn up, thus saving my rewire work as they were supposed to, until the matter of the insulator was solved for good and all with a torque strap.

Fusible links are VITAL OVERCURRENT PROTECTION!

Your horn relays are fed by a #14 AWG one too on the slab side models. Good to keep that one in mind.
 
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