Speedometer is starting at 25mph

Cags70PolaraConvert

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Why would my speedometer not go below 25? If I am doing 40 it reads 65. Is this an electrical glitch I can look for or something else? Not sure where to start.
 
Pull the cable from the speedometer and lubricate the cable . Verify the cable and sheathing isn't kinked back to the transmission.
You've had work done recently correct ? They were only under the hood?
 
Nothing done by the tranny, and its been like this for awhile. I just got her back and looking to address it.
 
Years ago, I had one that would always hang up - found out that the plastic lens had "sprung" slightly, and needle would jam against it.
 
was wondering if it could be something like that but didn't want to take anything apart before asking some questions.
 
The other thing that sometimes happens is the spiders build a web ball inside the cluster and the needle can not move freely. Usually only happens on cars long idle. There is a small spring that brings the needle back to rest that may be weak or blocked from fully retracting.

Dave
 
How much of the dash do I need to remove? Just the plastic or will I be getting deep into anything? What can I be prepared for?
 
How much of the dash do I need to remove? Just the plastic or will I be getting deep into anything? What can I be prepared for?

Down load the FSM for free at www.mymopar.com, you will find the service manuals in the tools/reference section. FSM gives the procedure for testing the dash components and shows the exploded view with the mounting screws. Section 8-68. Removing the cluster is pretty straight forward, the main things to be careful about are the small metal wand the serves as the gear position indicator is easily damaged, be sure to remove it prior to removing the cluster. Most of the plastic parts are now 50+ years or older and are often brittle, so be careful not to break anything. Always remove the negative battery cable when working on anything under the dash. The cluster is held in place by Philips screws around the edges. You will need to remove the trim panel under the dash if the car has one to access some of the screws and some models require that the steering column be lowered to clear the removal of the cluster. There is a snap in plug on the rear of the cluster that is disconnected by pressing on the end tabs, the speedo cable is usually still a screw mount in '66. The are two wires with hex nuts that must be removed from the ammeter. Be sure to put some blue painter tape on the steering column so that it does not get scratched by the cluster on removal. Read the FSM.

Dave
 
thanks for the detailed section to look at, I already have it downloaded and will use it for detailed reference. I was hoping to get a general idea so that I knew if I was getting into a 10 minute task or an hour long project. Sounds like the latter. Thanks for the advice.
 
I was hoping to get a general idea so that I knew if I was getting into a 10 minute task or an hour long project. Sounds like the latter.

I love a good optimist....


If I am that far into the dash now would be a good time to bypass the ammeter, wouldn't it?

Oh yes! I recently pulled my dash apart to fix the headlight switch. I figured I’d do a bunch more while I was there. New speedo, Ammeter bypass, solid state voltage limiter for the fuel gauge, and LED light bulbs for the panel and bezels. The only thing I didn’t do was the quartz conversion on the clock. Installed a delete blank in there for now.

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