Thoughts of freeing up a seized part...

thrashingcows

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I picked up an old Craftsman radial arm saw for free a while back, had been left out in the elements for a number of years.

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I have been working on getting everything cleaned up and working as it should and have only one area I can not get working again. It's the arms left and right movement that is seized solid. I have heat cycled it a dozen times or more with torch or heat gun then soak in PB Blaster, Tranny fluid, and other penetrating fluids, used brass hammer and punches to smack around the offending area, run it twice now through an electrolysis bath for several days but no luck.

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As it currently sits...

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If you have any Canadian Tire heat riser penetrent/lube in stock, that stuff is amazing. I think the active ingredient was acetone.

I used it on a seized piano style door hinge on a Kenworth I used to own and it was swinging like a new one in about 30 seconds after I had sprayed pailfuls of every brand of wonder lube on the planet to zero effect.

Google home made penetrating oil for some different recipes. Pretty sure acetone is the magic ingredient but it might have been toluene.

Kevin
 
Some great suggestions above that I have used with success but I finally bought my first can of Kroil and that stuff Is the bomb!
 
Mentioned previously was unlocking the arm. The unlock mechanism is on the front of the arm toward the operator. I had a heck of a time getting mine to swing when I first bought it because it wasn't unlocking fully.
 
Yes the locking mechanism is completely out, all the parts and pieces too and that is going to be a PITA to re-assemble. :( As mentioned I have heat cycled that area a dozen times or more with the torch but it just won't let go, I think the tolerances are so tight between those two parts that the little bit of rust that has formed between the two has essentially welded them together.

If I had a press out in the shop I would try that but can't figure out how to make a back yard press that won't ruin the assembly.
 
I’ve turned 2 of the somewhat bigger versions of these down that were in good working order and also free. Between a good old circular saw, a sliding compound miter saw and my cabinet saw I’ve got everything and more covered that these can do.
 
Yes the locking mechanism is completely out, all the parts and pieces too and that is going to be a PITA to re-assemble. :( As mentioned I have heat cycled that area a dozen times or more with the torch but it just won't let go, I think the tolerances are so tight between those two parts that the little bit of rust that has formed between the two has essentially welded them together.

If I had a press out in the shop I would try that but can't figure out how to make a back yard press that won't ruin the assembly.
You might be able to get a machine shop to take pity on you.
 
if you can keep the base solid, put pressure on the arm with a ratchet strap while soaking 2-3 times a day with pb blaster. try to give the strap another click each day. once it moves a little , put the strap on the other side and repeat. i freed up my drill press that way. i wouldn't recommend using a press. you'll likely break the casting.
 
if you can keep the base solid, put pressure on the arm with a ratchet strap while soaking 2-3 times a day with pb blaster. try to give the strap another click each day. once it moves a little , put the strap on the other side and repeat. i freed up my drill press that way. i wouldn't recommend using a press. you'll likely break the casting.

That is a great idea...had been trying to think of a way to put pressure on the arm in one direction or another, seems obvious now that you mentioned it...:) :thumbsup:

Just have to come up with some way to secure it, probably put the forks on my skid steer and fasten the saw to a HD pallet, then use the ratchet strap tied to the skid steer as an anchor point.
 
Do get yourself some Kroil, it is a Much better product than Blaster.
 
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