1966 Polara 500 Ragtop

@RagTop66 It's pretty much covered in post 20 of this thread.

The booster is in. It was quite the battle but I persevered...along with the stoplight switch.

As you'll notice, the original switch was replaced by hacking up the bracket to fit an aftermarket switch. Less than stellar results, no doubt the work of of Larry, Moe, and Curly.

000_0093[1].JPG


Booster...
000_0094[1].JPG


Bracket for the proportioning valve mocked up

000_0095[1].JPG


Miz Ruby was a bit Ms. Rue today, she beat me up pretty good.
 
Last edited:
Brake lines are finished and the master cylinder has been bench bled.
I'm waiting for the help to come by and get this the rest of the system bled.
I sure hope the Chinesium casting isn't porous.

000_0096[1].JPG
 
@RagTop66 It's pretty much covered in post 20 of this thread.

The booster is in. It was quite the battle but I persevered...along with the stoplight switch.

As you'll notice, the original switch was replaced by hacking up the bracket to fit an aftermarket switch. Less than stellar results, no doubt the work of of Larry, Moe, and Curly.

View attachment 395862

Booster...
View attachment 395863

Bracket for the proportioning valve mocked up

View attachment 395865

Miz Ruby was a bit Ms. Rue today, she beat me up pretty good.
Bit of a novice here. What is the proportioning valve for? I have a block on my car where the lines run into before going to the wheel cylinders.
 
Bit of a novice here. What is the proportioning valve for? I have a block on my car where the lines run into before going to the wheel cylinders.
You need to have a proportioning valve to get the correct pressure to the front and rear wheels. Our '66 cars had a simple distribution block since all wheels are in the same circuit.
 
Bit of a novice here. What is the proportioning valve for? I have a block on my car where the lines run into before going to the wheel cylinders.

It could be argued, for the sake of simplicity, that the proportioning valve is unnecessary. One such thread covers this... A Poor Man's Master Cylinder Upgrade.
However, because of the single distribution block flaw of locking all 4 brakes equally and the possibility of the vehicle "swapping ends" on certain surfaces when that happens, I installed the valve to cut some of the pressure off.
The valve will probably work better as the braking system itself is upgraded. Future plans include 11x2.5 rear brakes, asbestos (fronts first) shoes all around, and perhaps converting to front disc brakes from a '73 and up C body. The car goes just fine....well it could be just a bit quicker...but the brakes left much to be desired.
The single pot master cylinder is a death trap.
 
I believe the brake project is finished...but not without it's pitfalls.
Last week I was ready to sell the *****. Miz Ruby/Rue caused me to lose my cool.
The original rear brake line had a bit of a weep where it screwed into the prop valve. I couldn't make it stop. I lost sleep...but cooler heads prevailed and convinced me to try a couple of things.
This included slightly re bending the line, applying a couple of drops of thread sealant to the tube nut threads, and tightening the nut with a crows foot line wrench, to get just a wee bit more torque.
It seems to have worked. The line is dry and the master cylinder hasn't lost fluid.
How does the car stop? Amazing! At low speeds it is quick and even... without adjusting the proportioning valve I haven't locked the rears. It just stops...like right now! It instills confidence even as the skeptic in me wonders what might go wrong.
For now, it will /can be driven again. I do want to r&r the front brake hoses. They are dry and a bit stiff.
 
Last edited:
Not a lot of work to post.
I've driving the car a bunch and with the top down.
Last night I drove it over to Sapulpa Oklahoma for the pre car show cruise on rt66 Had a great time! Top down all the way through Tulsa on the interstate with a light mist to boot!
IMG_20200911_193931[1].jpg

The misty crap ended and we had a great time. We didn't stay parked for long. Made several passes on the cruise route through town and Ms. Rue even spun some one wheel peel for the crowd!
IMG_20200911_194028[1].jpg
 
Once again, we have been enjoying our Miz Ruby.
Last weekend was a 150+ mile scenic cruise through the fall scenery around Fort Gibson lake and the Illinois river near Talequah, Oklahoma. Lots of curvy road to enjoy as well.
We've put over 1400 miles on her this year and she's loved every bit of it!
Right now I've added a Tach and an oil pressure gauge to monitor things under the hood a bit more.

123208111_10157253550991930_8432761312391168870_n.jpg

123506090_10157253606776930_3175012962659727455_n.jpg

123603961_10157255822661930_1051290396678237757_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's been a while since I've really dug into the convertible, but this is a project that requires my attention.
The top doesn't seem to be working as well as it should and I need to access the pump. Plus I need to fix the boot and replace the speaker back and grille assembly
So today I ripped out the back seat. Obviously it needs a good scrubbing.
000_0103[1].JPG

When I pulled out the back seat and set it on my sawhorses I got a surprise!
000_0105[1].JPG

Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be Mz. Ruby's. Last 4#s of her vin are 3858 and the sheet is for 0685. It is for a convertible though...
This where the work begins...
000_0104[1].JPG
 
Last edited:
After searching through build codes on the broadcast sheet, it appears that this particular seat back came from a car with a factory rear speaker.
Another non original part...and another mystery.
Anyway, I need to repair the grille, and as it was spot welded to the trim, I'm not sure how to fix it. I have a piece of material that can be cut to size, but not sure how to mount it.
Think I'll start a discussion in the restoration thread.

000_0106[1].JPG
 
After searching through build codes on the broadcast sheet, it appears that this particular seat back came from a car with a factory rear speaker.
Another non original part...and another mystery.
Anyway, I need to repair the grille, and as it was spot welded to the trim, I'm not sure how to fix it. I have a piece of material that can be cut to size, but not sure how to mount it.
Think I'll start a discussion in the restoration thread.

View attachment 421440
Every convertible I ever remember looking at had that rear seat back.
 
Every convertible I ever remember looking at had that rear seat back.

So... what you're stating is that every convertible had a hole in the back for a speaker, whether a speaker was installed or not?

Or...

The front chrome trim and grille were found in every slab C body in one form or another. I agree.
 
After dealing with a harsh February winter, it was wonderful to get Ruby home and start on the rear seat/top project.
All I got done was a morning drive and the side panels removed but now I can observe the cylinders while I work the top.
Doesn't appear to be any fluid in the lines and that's never a good thing.
000_0110[1].JPG
 
The
It's been a while since I've really dug into the convertible, but this is a project that requires my attention.
The top doesn't seem to be working as well as it should and I need to access the pump. Plus I need to fix the boot and replace the speaker back and grille assembly
So today I ripped out the back seat. Obviously it needs a good scrubbing.
View attachment 421076
When I pulled out the back seat and set it on my sawhorses I got a surprise!
View attachment 421077
Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be Mz. Ruby's. Last 4#s of her vin are 3858 and the sheet is for 0685. It is for a convertible though...
This where the work begins...
View attachment 421079
You’re lucky to have the paper board backing for the seat/speaker
Mine were gone and I didn’t realize that it was paperboard until I saw this photo you posted here
Can you send me the dimensions and a full photo of it?

I can then make one
TIA
 
Somebody has also added a smog style vacuum delay (blue valve) to the line going to the distributor, will probably run better with out it. Far as I know, all 383 engines were G code for '66.

Dave
beautiful find! I owned a 66 Polara 500 hardtop in 1971 red with white top. All 66 model 383 engines were coded G regardless of two or four barrel.
The four barrel option was an extra code on the fender tag
You are a lucky guy!
 
Last edited:
Also, can you take a photo of the location of the well liner drain tubes from the trunk perspective?
 
The
You’re lucky to have the paper board backing for the seat/speaker
Mine were gone and I didn’t realize that it was paperboard until I saw this photo you posted here
Can you send me the dimensions and a full photo of it?

I can then make one
TIA

I can do that!

beautiful find! I owned a 66 Polara 500 hardtop in 1971 red with white top. All 66 model 383 engines were coded G regardless of two or four barrel.
The four barrel option was an extra code on the fender tag
You are a lucky guy!

Yes...we determined that about 12 pages ago. :) 62 code is the 4 barrel, 61 is the 2 barrel.

Also, can you take a photo of the location of the well liner drain tubes from the trunk perspective?

Yes I can!
 
Back
Top