68 300 power brakes

If the hydraulic system has air the pedal will go to the floor with a perfect working booster.

Brake shoe adjustment, then bleeding and leak check is first priority.

Agreed. . . But if he has to stand on the brake with both feet to get the car to stop, the booster is toast.
 
Agreed. . . But if he has to stand on the brake with both feet to get the car to stop, the booster is toast.
No RIP the booster is not toast at all. I asked the question in post #8. Go back and read it. He answered in post,#9.
He said the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. That is not a bad booster.

First thing is always brake shoe adjustment before bleeding. It is critical and nobody mentions it, so I just did.
Should really pull all drums and inspect to make sure they are assembled correctly.
Then bleed and look for leaks. Should really bleed the master cylinder first, then bleed at the wheels. Could have a Loose connection dripping out the fluid.
 
No RIP the booster is not toast at all. I asked the question in post #8. Go back and read it. He answered in post,#9.
He said the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. That is not a bad booster.

First thing is always brake shoe adjustment before bleeding. It is critical and nobody mentions it, so I just did.
Should really pull all drums and inspect to make sure they are assembled correctly.
Then bleed and look for leaks. Should really bleed the master cylinder first, then bleed at the wheels. Could have a Loose connection dripping out the fluid.

Again. . . I agree with everything you say, but he also said he had to stand on the brake pedal to get the car to stop, and in my experience, that means no booster action. Let's wait and see what happens.
 
Oh, im not going with a kit anymore, but it seems like finding the spindles (gonna get the rest new, if possible) is gonna be a pain.
Check out this month’s Mopar Action magazine. Dr Ehrenberg did a whole big article on drum to disc on an A100 van or pickup but he goes over all the different kits to install including C bodies. His kit uses your spindles w your hubs w drum removed. No breaking the front end apart. Check out the mag and good luck w the car. My 69 Fury has power drum and they work great and lock up in a dead straight line. They’re good enough for guvment work.

You can always go this way too LoL!!!!

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Lol.... thanks again for all the good info guys. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just keep and replace the drum system. After all its only gonna be a weekend cruiser and not a daily driver. Maybe convert it down the road in a few years.
 
Lol.... thanks again for all the good info guys. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just keep and replace the drum system. After all its only gonna be a weekend cruiser and not a daily driver. Maybe convert it down the road in a few years.
Once they’re working properly you’ll love the power drums. Rainy days maybe not so much...
 
If your booster is bad then Booster Dewey will see you right as they have an excellent reputation for quality work

Obviously, step one is check every part of the system and proceed from there. The experienced guys on the forum will see you right.

The folks at Wilwood brakes .would likely have something to convert your brakes if required- probably not cheap but good quality stuff, they're the ones who Jay Leno uses.
 
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But if the booster is bad then getting it rebuilt is another problem entirely
I say go to an old school Napa or car quest. The kind in an industrial complex. Not some place where the kid asks if it’s a v6 or v8 before looking up your wipers. I got both boosters for my 69 Fury and my 71 Torino that way. We had to order them but they both fit perfectly and have worked great for years. Give it a shot but DO NOT give them your core. Consider it a cost of doing business put it on the shelf as a spare and then you can rebuild your original booster at your leisure. Just my 2 cents - worked for me...
 
I’d say Anybody has a booster problem then go to booster Dewey with your original. Spend the money once and do it with a quality vendor that does good work. Can’t go wrong there.

  1. Forget Napa
 
I’d say Anybody has a booster problem then go to booster Dewey with your original. Spend the money once and do it with a quality vendor that does good work. Can’t go wrong there.

  1. Forget Napa
That’s completely true. I was just throwing out a fast & cheap alternative. Guess I should know the turnaround rebuild time before I assume it’ll be glacial. My bad.

For what it’s worth:

The Ford got the napa booster going strong for 8 years now. The Fury got the carquest booster couple years ago zero issues. Both were dirt cheap & counter guys knew what they were doing.
 
When you get the car, just go through the brake system and make sure everything is in good repair and adjusted properly. The drum brakes on these cars are actually pretty decent for the era from which they come. You can install a dual master cylinder (if not done already), and you may want to replace the booster: If its original, it is probably done or about to be done - same for the wheel cylinders. Also, get a brake shoe adjusting tool and adjust the shoes on all four wheels. If you don't drive like a maniac, the properly set up / repaired drum brakes should do fine until you get the scratch and the parts to do the disc conversion.
a 68 came factory with a dual one
 
Yep, ill be putting 15x7s on it when I can. I think I read thats the max width I can use with the skirts
 
I got 1 good pic of her before A) it got dark. And B) I had to get the trailer back before uhaul closed. More tomorrow.

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