62 Chrysler Newport Brake system

Joined
Oct 28, 2019
Messages
57
Reaction score
19
Location
Utah
OK, I have a 1962 Chrysler Newport I put on new brake cylinders, new shoes, had the power brake booster rebuilt and have now bleed the system. The brake pedal felt good until I hook the vacuum lines and start the car. The brake pedal goes to the floor.
Any insight is greatly appreciated. I did find a small leak and repaired it. And then re-bled the brakes and had the same issue. I’m thinking I may just need to re-bleed the brakes. However all of the parts are new. I have also adjusted the pads.
This one has me stumped. Any help is a greatly appreciated.
Signed, very frustrated new project owner!
 
Hooking up the vacuum gave you a power assist. That should not make the pedal go to the floor unless there is air someplace still in the system. I am assuming that you have installed a new master cylinder, have you checked the travel rod adjustment? If that is correct, you may have a line leak at one of the hoses or wheel cylinders, this will allow air to get sucked in as the pedal comes back up and give you a zero pedal condition the next time the pedal is depressed. If you installed Chicom wheel cylinders, they are known for sometimes having the rubber cups installed backwards, Pull the cylinder pistons and check all of them. The other issue has been with poorly machined seats for the flare fittings and bleeder screws. They will usually have a leak there if that is the case. A pinhole leak in one of the steel lines can also allow leakage and air intrusion.

Dave
 
Hooking up the vacuum gave you a power assist. That should not make the pedal go to the floor unless there is air someplace still in the system. I am assuming that you have installed a new master cylinder, have you checked the travel rod adjustment? If that is correct, you may have a line leak at one of the hoses or wheel cylinders, this will allow air to get sucked in as the pedal comes back up and give you a zero pedal condition the next time the pedal is depressed. If you installed Chicom wheel cylinders, they are known for sometimes having the all of them. The other issue has been with poorly machined seats for the flare fittings and bleeder screws. They will usually have a leak there if that is the case. A pinhole leak in one of the steel lines can also allow leakage and air intrusion.

Dave
Thank you Dave. I Did replace all wheel cylinders with Chico’s...ugh! I hope that’s not the issue because getting the back drums off were a real pain. I will check for any leaks. I did not replace the master cylinder. Could that be an issue? Maybe that’s my next step.
 
Thank you Dave. I Did replace all wheel cylinders with Chico’s...ugh! I hope that’s not the issue because getting the back drums off were a real pain. I will check for any leaks. I did not replace the master cylinder. Could that be an issue? Maybe that’s my next step.

Start there, a bad master cylinder can leak air thru the back side if the bore is scored or the rubber seals are bad. It should be replaced when the booster is bad because boosters usually fail from a leaking master cylinder.

Dave
 
Start there, a bad master cylinder can leak air thru the back side if the bore is scored or the rubber seals are bad. It should be replaced when the booster is bad because boosters usually fail from a leaking master cylinder.

Dave
Thanks, I will keep you posted
 
Brake pedal should be high and rock hard with no vacuum.

The offshore wheel cylinders are junk. I had one with a bad bleeder that drove me nuts (short drive at least).

Better to rebuild the old stuff or even buy NOS or NORS and rebuild them.
 
Sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder or replace it.

the China cylinders are a disaster, watch them closely. I’d much rather rebuild your old ones if you can. If they are not rust pitted.

On this 1962 Chrysler the brake system is different and the pedal is not rock hard with the engine off. I own 2 of them.
 
Sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder or replace it.

the China cylinders are a disaster, watch them closely. I’d much rather rebuild your old ones if you can. If they are not rust pitted.

On this 1962 Chrysler the brake system is different and the pedal is not rock hard with the engine off. I own 2 of them.
Thank you, I have ordered a new master cylinder.
 
Sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder or replace it.

the China cylinders are a disaster, watch them closely. I’d much rather rebuild your old ones if you can. If they are not rust pitted.

On this 1962 Chrysler the brake system is different and the pedal is not rock hard with the engine off. I own 2 of them.
How do you bleed the master cylinder
 
How do you bleed the master cylinder

It is called bench bleeding, the master cylinder is lightly clamped in a vise or other appliance. Fill the master Cylinder with fluid and attach the bench bleeding inserts into the connectors for the brake lines, The bench bleeding inserts are a type of one way valve that allows air to be expelled as the MC piston is pushed forward and then the valve closes so that air does not get sucked back in as the piston retracts. Once clear fluid is expelled from the bleeding valves, the master cylinder is free from bubbles and can be installed back on the vehicle. There is another type of bench bleeding insert that uses flexible clear plastic lines that go into the master cylinder reservoir, when those lines are clear the master is bled. Either system works well. It is usually done on a work bench to keep brake fluid from getting all over the engine compartment.

Dave
 
Brent,
You didn't order the Master Cylinder or Wheel Cylinders from me ?!?!?! And you KNOW mine are
U.S.A. made as well as ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Shoes.....
When you get done fiddle--bleepin' around with all the Chineseum garbage, you can call me...
Of course, you SHOULD have called me first about all of this, and you would be driving your treasure and enjoying life for months now....
I did leave you five messages about the emergency brake cable, and you never called me back.....

If somehow you misplaced my phone number, it is still 516 - 485 - 1935....... Craig.....
 
Thank you, I have ordered a new master cylinder.
There are many ways to bleed. It's best to SLOWLY pump the pedal, to slow bubbles from forming. Then, if I'm having an issue, I let it sit for a hour,and bleed again. Sometimes, it does take awhile. You getting the same amount of fluid at every wheel?
 
I was going say the master but that's been covered. I replaced all my wheel cylinders eventually, combination of NAPA and summit, can't say where they were made, new or reman, but had no problems. Also, FSM's list the order of bleeding as right rear, left rear, right front then left front, (farthest from master and going closer).
 
Napa (Never American parts available) and Summit are Hawking "what is out there".... Their "job" is to buy the cheapest garbage out there and try and outsell their competition.
I can tell you what they are buying.... And if you think about it for 10 seconds, YOU KNOW what they are buying and Hawking.....
I buy mine from the brake outlet where *** W E ***
Had them --- before the Chineseum world existed ......
And there are still enough people out there who prefer Quality over price,price,price.....
 
Napa (Never American parts available) and Summit are Hawking "what is out there".... Their "job" is to buy the cheapest garbage out there and try and outsell their competition.
I can tell you what they are buying.... And if you think about it for 10 seconds, YOU KNOW what they are buying and Hawking.....
I buy mine from the brake outlet where *** W E ***
Had them --- before the Chineseum world existed ......
And there are still enough people out there who prefer Quality over price,price,price.....
I prefer to call what we seek is ‘best value’, which factors in quality, total cost, reliability, serviceability and product life. That being said, Craig’s spot on with his offerings, hands down.
 
Hey Men,
Brent from Utah cancelled his order for the Chineseum master cylinder he had ordered, and is getting U.S.A. from me...
At least, this way, he is good on the first go,
And not futzing around with maybe 1st, 2nd, or 3rd time..... (Too. Much labor !!! We all know...)
Score points for Brent.... (He had lost track of me.)
Yours, Craig.....
 
Ok, the new master cylinder arrived and it has a boot. Do I keep the boot on?. It seems this may have caused the air leakage. Thoughts.
4C691B79-DDCE-4660-9F84-F1D933362314.jpeg
 
That master is for manual brakes with the boot on it. See the metal retaining ring? Can’t install it on power brake booster with that.
 
Back
Top