Spindle conversion or Wilwood kit

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I tried using the search tool to read about anybody here using the Wilwood disc conversion kit. The obvious differences to me are price and time\difficulty of installation. I was wondering if anybody using the Wilwood kit have had any issues with it? Would the con's with Wilwood kit be that you have to get any replacement parts you have to go through Wilwood? Thanks for any feedback.

 

[Davea Lux]

I tried using the search tool to read about anybody here using the Wilwood disc conversion kit. The obvious differences to me are price and time\difficulty of installation. I was wondering if anybody using the Wilwood kit have had any issues with it? Would the con's with Wilwood kit be that you have to get any replacement parts you have to go through Wilwood? Thanks for any feedback.

The other issue with all of the conversion kits is that they use a B-Body style booster that is a reproduction made in China. Those units of of highly suspect quality. I won't use them, but I am sure others will contribute.

Dave

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Wilwood kit\website says you use your original booster.

 

[Davea Lux]

Wilwood kit\website says you use your original booster.

Disc brake equipped cars have a Bendix dual diaphragm booster, drum cars have a Bendix single diaphragm booster for '70. The single diaphragm boosters will still stop the car but they have about 25% less braking action.

Dave

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

so in either conversion I should get a dual diaphragm booster.

 

[1970FuryConv]

You could try something like this: Disc brake master cylinder and combination valve included.
Master Power Brakes

 

[fury fan]

You could also use a 71-up large-dia flat booster, much easier to find, but IIRC those have some fitment issues in slab-side column-shift cars, they will block the linkage from moving all the way to 1.

 

[CBODY67]

Maybe a "Low Gear Block" from the police cars might make that a moot point?

 

[fury fan]

You could try something like this: Disc brake master cylinder and combination valve included.
Master Power Brakes
View attachment 404854

These kits have made me wonder if trailer hubs would have the correct bearings and spacing to fit on our spindles. Next question would be what those hat rotors are from, in order to mount the caliper properly with just a flat plate. The C-body rotor is pretty tall at the hub area, which moves the caliper further inboard.

ECI hotrod brakes has something similar, and has had it out for probably 5-7 years, and they also offer a 13" rotor option.
Engineered Components, Inc. - Your One Stop Brake Shop!

Their statement:
These conversions use our aluminum hubs and dust covers, 11 inch diameter rotors and big piston GM calipers. These calipers offer 15-25% more braking then the later Chrysler factory 'B' body brake systems without changing spindles!


Both kits have base parts of 11" rotor and GM calipers, with machined hubs and flat-plate caliper brackets.
Seems like the kit as shown is $700.

Looks like base kit of Master Power is $900 but includes 2 hoses.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Thank you for different links. I like the engineered components link as it tells you what parts are being used if you need to replace anything. I didn't see what the model of the brake pads were though.

 

[twostick]

Because the GM caliper the ECI kit uses has a bigger diameter piston than Chrysler uses, you can get away with a drum brake booster. I think as kits go, it's one of the best engineered.

That being said I would still go with a spindle swap on a C body.

Kevin

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I like the spindle conversion because you know source of parts that to be utilizing. There were just processes in the spindle conversion I was looking to avoid because I don't really have any additional hands to help me and I don't really have the garage setup to do some of the steps. But I guess no guts no glory. Anybody on the east coast have a set of spindles they are looking to move?

 

[fury fan]

Because the GM caliper the ECI kit uses has a bigger diameter piston than Chrysler uses, you can get away with a drum brake booster. I think as kits go, it's one of the best engineered.

That being said I would still go with a spindle swap on a C body.

Kevin

If ECI had that kit as a 12" rotor, I'd bet they'd sell a lot more.
I know I'd buy a set. But without knowing which is more braking (12" C-stuff or this kit) I'm on the fence.

 

[CBODY67]

Rather than disc diameter, why not look at "lining area" of the disc pads AND where they contact teh disc surface? The larger diameter discs would surely have a built-in mechanical leverage advantage, but if the pad area only uses the outer section of the disc, it might not work as well as if it covered the total width of the contact area.

I suspect that all of the GM caliper-based systems will use a common GM brake pad, industry number D52, I believe, which physically fit most of their vehicles back then, but with frictions that were customized for particular applications (i.e., Monte Carlos, Cadillac limos, C-30 duallys).

I concur that having a "line sheet" of parts in the kits is always a good idea, especially to pass on to later owners of the vehicle.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[fury fan]

Yes, the lining area and location is a huge variable. Long, narrower lining near the OD of the rotor is more braking torque than shorter one that goes further down into the ID of the rotor. But longer pad gets warmer toward the trailing edge, decreasing its effectiveness. So it's all a balancing act, and OEM engineers probably follow lots of rules developed of many years.

But ultimately lining area, piston area, and fluid pressure are variables into pressure on teh rotor (assuming same friction material). And none of these brake kit folks ever go into all of that. Simply putting on larger-bore calipers doesn't automatically give more braking, but many websites speak as if it does.