C Sickness
Member
The headlight, dimmer, and flasher switches on my 300 are all acting up. How do I get them out, I assume pull the lower dash trim, and do all work from behind? Looks like switches are attached with screws?
1970 headlight switch replacement
- Thread starter C Sickness
- Start date
You will need to pull the dash cluster as a unit. The switches are install from behind the cluster. Don't do w/ the cluster installed, its too easy to break something there is no room in there. Disconnect the battery. Remove the lower steering column cover and drop the column down for easier access. Not as bad as it sounds. Be very careful around the printed circuit board not to break off the connecting pins. If you need a highly detailed description on how to do this PM me.
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Having David Hill volunteering to help you is like having your heart surgeon volunteering to come over and help to trim your hedges! 
I'll add that our dashboard plastics are OLD and BRITTLE, so be gentle. And by now, it's likely that various screws weren't replaced back in 1979 when switches and bulbs were replaced, and some screw tabs are already cracked from overtightening (if they're not already broken off
)......so I guess I've already said it: Go slow, wiggle and jiggle, but be gentle. Oh, the backs of your hands will look as though you've been trying to pet your neighbor's vicious, sharp-clawed cat, but it will all be worth it when your switches and bulbs are all working like it's 1970 again. 
I'll add that our dashboard plastics are OLD and BRITTLE, so be gentle. And by now, it's likely that various screws weren't replaced back in 1979 when switches and bulbs were replaced, and some screw tabs are already cracked from overtightening (if they're not already broken off
)......so I guess I've already said it: Go slow, wiggle and jiggle, but be gentle. Oh, the backs of your hands will look as though you've been trying to pet your neighbor's vicious, sharp-clawed cat, but it will all be worth it when your switches and bulbs are all working like it's 1970 again.
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1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
This is the back of a 1970 Fury Dash. With that car, instrument cluster has to come out as a unit. HL switch and dimmer in top row 1st pic.
As pulled, before clean up and lens/speedo replace
As pulled, before clean up and lens/speedo replace
C Sickness
Member
Thanks for all the help. I might have seen a cluster removal procedure in the FSM. What you're showing looks like there are tabs in the bottom, and screws at the top. Pull the screws, rotate the top towards you, and lift up and away. I have a new headlight switch, the rear half of the car doesn't have tails or side markers. Dimmer is spotty, depending on position. Hope to clean it with Deoxit, or similar. I see there is someone who rebuilds these on the auction site. Flasher, i don't know yet, must be dirty. Sometimes both sides flash, sometimes only one side. Depends on how you mash the button. I don't know how the little seesaws, buttons, and springs go inside. I do know they will jump to freedom if I open the switch.
I have to change the steering box, which means dropping the column. A good time to do both jobs. I'll PM if i get really stuck.
I have to change the steering box, which means dropping the column. A good time to do both jobs. I'll PM if i get really stuck.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I removed the column. Makes removing the dash much easier.
C Sickness
Member
I was scared of it, but I think I see now that both the input and output shafts have a master spline in the serrations. With that, there should be no way to do it wrong. Hopefully, the Pitman arm will pop off without too much of a fight.
C Sickness
Member
What is that, an OTC or something? The Harbor Freight one won't do ;) ?
C Sickness
Member
I wasn't far off. The OTC 6497 looks like that.
a member here by the name of devinism rebuilds the dash dimmers.
ALLAN
Member
ALLAN
Member
My puller weighs about 2kg with a stubby handle
Yes it is made by OTC.
I'm sure it's time for the obligatory dimmer switch rebuild (which yours truly does).
Also, if I may add.... A little WD40 on all of the wiring connections on the backs of the switches will really help. Pry off with a wide blade screwdriver between the black wiring connector and the switch itself. I've seen many a switch with the back pulled off and all the 'guts' gone.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
How did the cluster remove go? Did you have to pull the instrument cluster all the way out? Or did you find a way to sneak the headlight switch out without pulling everything apart?
I have to replace the headlight switch on my 1970 Fury. Worked perfect, then lost taillights, side markers, and dash instrument panel lights. 2nd fuselage headlight switch I've had with this problem. Wish I'd replaced the switch when I redid the dash in 2017.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I found a way to remove the headlight switch without taking everything apart. Took about an hour.
1970 Fury Headlight Switch Install, The Easy Way, Sort Of
These problems are usually indicative of a lack of power to the terminal (B2) on the back of the headlight switch. That is 'power in' for only the items you listed. Check your fuse, wiring, etc.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Hi Devin,
Sorry to confuse. Of the 2 headlight switches that had the same problem, only one was on my 1970 Fury convertible.
Tail light fuse is OK. 12.35 V at outside with ignition off.
5 years ago, I had the dash apart and checked every wire in the harness. That's when you rebuilt my thumb wheel dimmer switch. I have not driven the car much since then. When I redid the dash, there was evidence of water damage. However, I did not replace the headlight switch because it worked OK. I'm thinking internal corrosion. I have a spare good switch coming, so if my repaired switch goes bad, I can swap it in.
I hope you find something simple. Maybe even corrosion on the back side of the switch, and or terminals
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