SOLD; 1966 Chrysler 300

traintech55

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Well everyone, my 300 went Bye, Bye today. Ripinator is the proud new owner of her, may he have good luck with her in the future. Now I can bring my Newport home.
 
Anybody else want one? Dry AZ car. I just bought it. I think it's original paint. Everything seems to work and it's all there. 383 console shift. I'm going back and forth between selling and keeping it. I just joined this forum minutes ago looking for info on power brakes. My booster ain't boosting and I was trying to learn about that field installed hydro-vac and whether mine has it. I'm thinking all the 300's had power brakes from factory??? I'd like to convert to manual...any help?

chrysler1.jpg
 
Anybody else want one? Dry AZ car. I just bought it. I think it's original paint. Everything seems to work and it's all there. 383 console shift. I'm going back and forth between selling and keeping it. I just joined this forum minutes ago looking for info on power brakes. My booster ain't boosting and I was trying to learn about that field installed hydro-vac and whether mine has it. I'm thinking all the 300's had power brakes from factory??? I'd like to convert to manual...any help?

View attachment 410578

Most of the time boosters go bad because a master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster. The standard booster with drum brakes is a Midland-Ross single clamp unit. Your best bet is probably to pull your booster and send it out to be rebuilt. www.boosterdeweyexchange.com in Portland does a a good job of rebuilding them. Avoid Cardone rebuilt units as the are often mis-boxed and have a high defect rate.

As far as converting to manual brakes, you will need to replace the booster mounting plate and the brake pedal with one for standard brakes. The pedal has a different mount point for the manual master cylinder operating rod to get more leverage. I do not think switching to manual brakes is a good idea, but it is your car. Nice looking car.

Dave
 
Most of the time boosters go bad because a master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster. The standard booster with drum brakes is a Midland-Ross single clamp unit. Your best bet is probably to pull your booster and send it out to be rebuilt. www.boosterdeweyexchange.com in Portland does a a good job of rebuilding them. Avoid Cardone rebuilt units as the are often mis-boxed and have a high defect rate.

As far as converting to manual brakes, you will need to replace the booster mounting plate and the brake pedal with one for standard brakes. The pedal has a different mount point for the manual master cylinder operating rod to get more leverage. I do not think switching to manual brakes is a good idea, but it is your car. Nice looking car.

Dave
I do have a single-clamp booster. I called Portland. They say their turn-around time is 5 weeks....Long time to ride without brakes! Thanks for heads-up on Cardon. I was leaning that way for quick swap.
 
Anybody else want one? Dry AZ car. I just bought it. I think it's original paint. Everything seems to work and it's all there. 383 console shift. I'm going back and forth between selling and keeping it. I just joined this forum minutes ago looking for info on power brakes. My booster ain't boosting and I was trying to learn about that field installed hydro-vac and whether mine has it. I'm thinking all the 300's had power brakes from factory??? I'd like to convert to manual...any help?

View attachment 410578
im in how much ?
 
Well everyone, my 300 went Bye, Bye today. Ripinator is the proud new owner of her, may he have good luck with her in the future. Now I can bring my Newport home.

Congratulations both! It's always hard to see them go. Looks like your thread was promptly hijacked! But what a looker!

Do you have any photos of your "old" 300?

Anybody else want one? Dry AZ car. I just bought it. I think it's original paint. Everything seems to work and it's all there. 383 console shift. I'm going back and forth between selling and keeping it. I just joined this forum minutes ago looking for info on power brakes. My booster ain't boosting and I was trying to learn about that field installed hydro-vac and whether mine has it. I'm thinking all the 300's had power brakes from factory??? I'd like to convert to manual...any help?

View attachment 410578

If you're on the fence about selling it, you should consider that and see what you can get. Seems like you already have a bite, and that's without making an official "for sale" thread. The modifications you're considering would make it harder to sell, when the time comes. That car is just stunning! I want to see more too! Original paint?
 
Congratulations both! It's always hard to see them go. Looks like your thread was promptly hijacked! But what a looker!

Do you have any photos of your "old" 300?
Yes I do, I have posted many pictures of work done on her over the years. I will leave it up to Rip, to post more pictures of her.
By the way, the highjack of my post has to set a new site record.
 
Most of the time boosters go bad because a master cylinder is leaking fluid into the booster. The standard booster with drum brakes is a Midland-Ross single clamp unit. Your best bet is probably to pull your booster and send it out to be rebuilt. www.boosterdeweyexchange.com in Portland does a a good job of rebuilding them. Avoid Cardone rebuilt units as the are often mis-boxed and have a high defect rate.

As far as converting to manual brakes, you will need to replace the booster mounting plate and the brake pedal with one for standard brakes. The pedal has a different mount point for the manual master cylinder operating rod to get more leverage. I do not think switching to manual brakes is a good idea, but it is your car. Nice looking car.

Dave

Agree on the Cardone advice. When you order parts and are miles away from supply house and its bad, its very frustrating. Happened two times with brake parts from this company. Never again. j-u-n-k
 
I don't have a price yet, 'cause I can't sell right now. (the guy I bought it from could). It's got a bad fuel leak from the top of the gas tank and I gotta drop the tank to see to that.. may just buy a new tank...but I'm hoping it's just a hose or bad sender gasket.... I'd never sell a car like that. Way uncool...Plus I ordered a HEI distributor, wires and plugs. [email protected] 602 492 1539. This car is amazingly clean. I just bought it today and I'm still in the honeymoon phase.
 
And has anyone got any info on backing the driver's seat up? I feel like I'm eating the steering wheel. I'm 6'1" not a NBA star....The seat goes back and forth on the track but man, It's like sitting in a school principal's office! I need the gangsta' lean!
 
And has anyone got any info on backing the driver's seat up? I feel like I'm eating the steering wheel. I'm 6'1" not a NBA star....The seat goes back and forth on the track but man, It's like sitting in a school principal's office! I need the gangsta' lean!
You can always add a power seat base. It is a 6 way so you can tilt that baby back, and it goes back further than the manual too. I am very happy with my seat position and I am 6' 4" , in fact I don't even have it the whole way back.
 
And has anyone got any info on backing the driver's seat up? I feel like I'm eating the steering wheel. I'm 6'1" not a NBA star....The seat goes back and forth on the track but man, It's like sitting in a school principal's office! I need the gangsta' lean!

Unless someone has changed something or swapped seat tracks, you should have more than enough leg room! I'm 5-11 and have the seat all the way back, and I have to slouch slightly to get where I'm comfortable. Otherwise, pull both seats and switch the tracks from the other seat and reinstall. Good Luck

You can always add a power seat base. It is a 6 way so you can tilt that baby back, and it goes back further than the manual too. I am very happy with my seat position and I am 6' 4" , in fact I don't even have it the whole way back.
I would absolutely NOT do this, but that's just me! Good Luck
 
I agree something doesn't sound right here, you should have plenty of leg room. However adding the power base has added much comfort in driving position, and if you like you back slightly reclined, it is the only to achieve it with a fixed back.
 
the tracks might be gummed up. by the looks of your picture, the drivers seat is about 3" forward of the passenger seat.
 
I'm on the fence with my 67 Charger too. When I see someone looking for an older Mopar, I'll contact them. Based on my previous sales in this day and age, tire kickers, time wasters are NUTs! So I don't advertise it
 
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