I have a 68 Fury III w/383. Had original 2 barrel Carter and now has a new 4 barrel Holley. Every time I shut off w/ around a five minute rest or more, it’s hard to start again. I can smell gas fumes too. Its doing the same thing with both carburetors. It surely seems like it’s dumping gas...What could be the problem? Anyone figure out anything like this with their own mopar?
Hard starting Fury
- Thread starter furyfever
- Start date
Mopars of that era were famous for having the carbs boil fuel into the intake. Check you heat riser to be sure it is not stuck shut and overheating the carb. If the heat riser in not stuck, you should check the float level adjustments to be sure that they are properly set. If all else fails, start the car at 1/2 throttle to purge the fuel in the intake quickly.
Dave
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Use ethanol free gasoline. It won’t boil out like that.
here is a list for NY state.
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
here is a list for NY state.
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
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Those cars, like others of that era, had "bowl vent valves" which vented the float bowl to the atmosphere, as a normal situation, when the throttle is closed. Replacement carbs have the nipple to connect the bolw vent to a carbon cannister (as latre models had). It might not be boiling fuel into the throttle bores per se, but you will smell the evaporated fuel.
When re-starting, use about 2/3 throttle openning rather than otherwise. This way, the accumulated vapors will clear out sooner, which should mean a bit quicker start. Just the nature of Chrysler B/RB engines, back then. Similar GM or Ford vehicles didn't have those issues, though. Not quite sure why . . . Although Buicks with their "accel pedal start" kind of got around that issue as to engage the starter, the accel pedal had to be at WOT, which stopped being used in the earlier 1960s.
Any modern gasoline is quite a bit more volatile than even the winter blend fuels for when the cars were new. Which also means "easier to evaporate".
Enjoy!
CBODY67
When re-starting, use about 2/3 throttle openning rather than otherwise. This way, the accumulated vapors will clear out sooner, which should mean a bit quicker start. Just the nature of Chrysler B/RB engines, back then. Similar GM or Ford vehicles didn't have those issues, though. Not quite sure why . . . Although Buicks with their "accel pedal start" kind of got around that issue as to engage the starter, the accel pedal had to be at WOT, which stopped being used in the earlier 1960s.
Any modern gasoline is quite a bit more volatile than even the winter blend fuels for when the cars were new. Which also means "easier to evaporate".
Enjoy!
CBODY67
The only thing mentioned here that I don’t have is the insulated fuel line. Will try that too. I’ve pressed the pedal 1/2 down on restart...works sometimes but other times it seems to make it even worse.
Has anyone ever tried an in-line valve to shut off fuel? Just wondering if needle valve is letting in even more gas after shutdown. Perhaps that’s not even the problem. It was doing this with original 2 barrel carb and now with aftermarket Holley too. Thinking there’s too much fuel pressure? Sounds like there’s a consensus here though that’s it’s the gas in the bowl that’s boiling over. My 58 Desoto’s 350 doesn’t do it at all.
Has anyone ever tried an in-line valve to shut off fuel? Just wondering if needle valve is letting in even more gas after shutdown. Perhaps that’s not even the problem. It was doing this with original 2 barrel carb and now with aftermarket Holley too. Thinking there’s too much fuel pressure? Sounds like there’s a consensus here though that’s it’s the gas in the bowl that’s boiling over. My 58 Desoto’s 350 doesn’t do it at all.
Since it's done the same thing with both carbs, the old adage of 90% of carb problems are electrical may be true.
What ignition do you have? Converted from points? Any chance you have a spare ignition coil you could swap?
What ignition do you have? Converted from points? Any chance you have a spare ignition coil you could swap?
Still has points John...replaced them recently with all the work done to the top end (valves). I can come up with another ignition coil. Will try that. Thanks. Maybe a pertronix electronic ignition is in the near future for this car. It’s such a beautiful straight, solid original car...a shame it’s such a hard starting beast. John, I believe it’s you...you and I met at Liverpool Moparmadness show in 2016. I had my burgundy 68 Fury that day. I remember your big friendly dog you had with you that day. Haven’t been there since. Hope to get back some year soon. Thanks very much for the advice.
Thank you...another great idea. I’ll give this a try too if necessary. Probably will try ignition coil first since I have a spare on hand. If not, I’ll look it up and order one. Good to know it helped you. Thanks!
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
All gasoline's boil easy now they no longer have a surface tensioner additive because new cars are closed fuel systems with electrically controlled purge and vent systems. Your car obviously has none of that. Carb is hot needs to be cooler. Disable the valve in the exhaust manifold, your hopefully not running the car in very low ambient temps. A insulator type carb gasket is helpful. Did you change the condenser when you changed the points? New condensers have a reputation for poor heat tolerance. Put the old one back in.
Yep, that was me.
saylor
Senior Member
do you have a stock fuel delivery system?
have you changed all the rubber fuel line pieces?
if you have a plastic fuel filter throw that away and get a metal one. dont get the glass ones either.
do you understand the scientific difference between suck and blow - positive and negative pressure - specifically how it effects liquids and gasses - like related to going thru the fuel line tube?
drive around get the car up to temp. shut it off. wait 5 minutes. unhook the fuel line from the carb. if you dont spill fuel all over you, you probably dont have enough fuel up top - it either evaporated or crawled back downhill back down the line.
grab a GLASS jar. put that fuel line you unhooked from the carb into the jar. dont be near the coil/dist or hovering over the exhaust log when you do this in case you spill fuel. Have your old lady turn the key for about 3 sec. if that jar doesnt get about half full of fuel, you have a fuel delivery issue.
if you have any hole ) even a micro pinhole ( in your fuel line path entirety you are gonna have issues. elec fuel pump would be your best friend. no more vapor lock no more feed issues.
try not to die -
- saylor
have you changed all the rubber fuel line pieces?
if you have a plastic fuel filter throw that away and get a metal one. dont get the glass ones either.
do you understand the scientific difference between suck and blow - positive and negative pressure - specifically how it effects liquids and gasses - like related to going thru the fuel line tube?
drive around get the car up to temp. shut it off. wait 5 minutes. unhook the fuel line from the carb. if you dont spill fuel all over you, you probably dont have enough fuel up top - it either evaporated or crawled back downhill back down the line.
grab a GLASS jar. put that fuel line you unhooked from the carb into the jar. dont be near the coil/dist or hovering over the exhaust log when you do this in case you spill fuel. Have your old lady turn the key for about 3 sec. if that jar doesnt get about half full of fuel, you have a fuel delivery issue.
if you have any hole ) even a micro pinhole ( in your fuel line path entirety you are gonna have issues. elec fuel pump would be your best friend. no more vapor lock no more feed issues.
try not to die -
- saylor
As far as fuel line insulation I've been using this black fiberglass covering . It doesn't look as robust and thick as the silver shiny stuff but for $10 I thought I could experiment. Plus I didn't want the engine bay to have foil all over it. Gets good reviews. The 13 mm is bit baggy on bare fuel line but will fit over rubber hose easily. It expands/stretches to fit over things. I suppose you could slice it open and wrap a still connected fuel line and then secure with silicone tape or clamp/wire ties.
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