Welp, I killed my 383 Crate engine rebuilt?

NormanPlombe

NormanPlombe

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Was puffing (then belching) white smoke out of left exhaust (true duals no crossover)....then it "hot" idiot light came on and I pulled over. It was low of coolant (had just checked/filled it the day before)...anyway, long and short, it wouldn't re-start (would turn over but wouldn't fire--spinning slow but didn't seem seized). when it went up on the rollback, coolant came out of the left pipe. I'll pull that head next week and hope it's just a head gasket. Any suggestions on where to look for cracked head/block? Also...any advice on finding a reman short/long block? It's hard to find a MOPAR 383...all I'm seeing is Chevys.
 
This car has been sitting forever. I changed oil, changed some hoses and filled with coolant, etc. Was running well.
 
The reason you only see Chevy motors in the reman ads is that that's where their volume is. Hasn't been a 383 since they became 400s in 1972 and 400s ended in '78. Probably no cores in their core pile, either.

May just have to pull it all apart and determine what happened. Maybe the timing chain went and took a piston with it? Only disassembly will tell that tale.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I would pull the head off first before I jumped to any conclusions. It may just be a blown head gasket. If it is and you have it all apart change them both.
 
Pull the spark plugs and see which cylinder has anti freeze in it, that gives you a starting point as to where to look for the cracked head or blown gasket. While you have it apart, be sure to change both head gaskets. Also have the heads checked for to be sure they are not warped.

Dave
 
CBODY67 said:
The reason you only see Chevy motors in the reman ads is that that's where their volume is. Hasn't been a 383 since they became 400s in 1972 and 400s ended in '78. Probably no cores in their core pile, either.

May just have to pull it all apart and determine what happened. Maybe the timing chain went and took a piston with it? Only disassembly will tell that tale.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Click to expand...
nah...never had any mechanical noises...it was running when I shut it down and it didn't run hot for long. I was right on it watching the dash. I was alone in the desert (not too hot...maybe 65 degrees out...The failure causes the overheat not the other way around...I just failed to identify the white smoke... thought it was a little oil/ crud from just sitting....Looking back, I can't believe I didn't recognize it as coolant. Live and learn. I'll open it up here over the next few weeks.
 
are all the big blocks (non-hemis) the same configuration as far as head bolts, oilpan, motor mounts, etc? I'd really like to get a crate motor in this thing and take my time building the original. what are my options for a bolt-in, stock-looking motor? I'm only concerned with reliability. I don't care about going fast.
 
NormanPlombe said:
nah...never had any mechanical noises...it was running when I shut it down and it didn't run hot for long. I was right on it watching the dash. I was alone in the desert (not too hot...maybe 65 degrees out...The failure causes the overheat not the other way around...I just failed to identify the white smoke... thought it was a little oil/ crud from just sitting....Looking back, I can't believe I didn't recognize it as coolant. Live and learn. I'll open it up here over the next few weeks.
Click to expand...

You mentioned that the car had been sitting for a long time. Coolant leak might have been the reason somebody parked it.

Dave
 
NormanPlombe said:
are all the big blocks (non-hemis) the same configuration as far as head bolts, oilpan, motor mounts, etc? I'd really like to get a crate motor in this thing and take my time building the original. what are my options for a bolt-in, stock-looking motor? I'm only concerned with reliability. I don't care about going fast.
Click to expand...

These guys will sell you a complete 383 crate engine for 6 grand.
Chrysler Performance Crate Engines
Seems like a lot of money to spend if you are going to spend another $5000-$6000 to rebuild the original engine.
440 would bolt on to your trans and motor mounts, but you'd need a torque converter or weighted flex plate if 440 was cast crank, since your 383 is forged and internally balanced. Would also need RB kickdown linkage.
 
UPDATE! I'm in the middle of moving, so I just wanted to get her running enough to climb on the trailer. Remember: I shut it down when it started getting hot but was unable to re-start and had to flatbed it home. Well, I got her running today. It seems clear that water was going from water jacket into exhaust port based on the amount of water that came out of exhaust pipe. Oil is NOT creamy, but that may only happen after you churn it up a while. Dipstick shows oil only...and no smell or indication of coolant in oil. Again, I'm in the middle of packing to move so I'm not doing any diagnostics on this thing til it's trailered to its new home. I'm using a 4 wheels off the ground trailer not a dolly.
 
1970FuryConv said:
These guys will sell you a complete 383 crate engine for 6 grand.
Chrysler Performance Crate Engines
Seems like a lot of money to spend if you are going to spend another $5000-$6000 to rebuild the original engine.
440 would bolt on to your trans and motor mounts, but you'd need a torque converter or weighted flex plate if 440 was cast crank, since your 383 is forged and internally balanced. Would also need RB kickdown linkage.
Click to expand...
I USED THOSE GUYS ON A 318 just a few years ago. I brought them a MANUAL crank 318 and they gave me back an AUTO crank motor...You may think it's no big deal but for a $4500 rebuild...I deserve better. Won't be using them again. GRRRRRR.
 
NormanPlombe said:
I USED THOSE GUYS ON A 318 just a few years ago. I brought them a MANUAL crank 318 and they gave me back an AUTO crank motor...You may think it's no big deal but for a $4500 rebuild...I deserve better. Won't be using them again. GRRRRRR.
Click to expand...
It's a super big deal if you have a manual trans car and there's no pilot bushing at the back of the crank. There's ways around that, but extra work. I vaguely remember that you have to cut off the front of the input shaft and install an insert bearing at the rear of the automatic crank.
Now that it's running I guess you can drive it onto the trailer and wait on repair.
 
Time for a road trip (not mine)?
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/pts/d/los-angeles-383-mopar-engine-complete/7232137252.html
SELLING A COMPLETE 383 BIG BLOCK ENGINE, WAS RUNNING WHEN PULLED, HAS BEEN IN STORAGE FOR YEARS
WAS PULLED FROM 67 CAR $1600
00w0w_4PVRAArND3Q_0jm0ew_1200x900.jpg
 
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