My engine is being a jerk!

As for the engine "jerks", I somewhat doubt that's from a transmission issue. Transmission issues, which might well be similar to a lock-up converter getting weak in locking up, can result in a shudder and with increased engine rpms under load, which is "slippage" in the "need to fix it fast" mode. Or "don't do that" mode until you get the trans fixed.

Might need to put the car on "a scope" and try to duplicate the performance issue.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
have you checked the transmission mount? you may want to consider a torque strap on the left motor mount if you don't have one.
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have you checked the transmission mount? you may want to consider a torque strap on the left motor mount if you don't have one.
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It seems to me Chrysler stopped using those wire straps (to contain the engine when the driver side mount breaks) in the 1969 model year - does that seem about right? I haven't seen one on any of my 1970 and up models that I can recall.............
 
I always cycle my Mopars to Neutral before pulling away to run the pump and build pressure.

Your "no move" symptom is classic converter drain back/ low fluid.

Mine moves maybe once every two weeks so when I start the car and let it run to warm up before going into normal idle I put the trans in N at the same time. All cars in the driveway have one tire chocked just in case.
 
It seems to me Chrysler stopped using those wire straps (to contain the engine when the driver side mount breaks) in the 1969 model year - does that seem about right? I haven't seen one on any of my 1970 and up models that I can recall.............

Those cable kits were quite prevalent on the Chevy side of things, starting in about 1967. Many different kits of a similar cable and attaching hardware. The cable looped around the upper control arm shaft and attached to the block/motor mount interface. Mostly for vehicles with throttle rod accelerator actuation. The later throttle cables lessened the throttle sticking issues, it seemed. The kits were a part of a safety-related recall campaign, just as the later improved inter-locking lh motor mount replacements were.

Seems like Chrysler went to the improved motor mounts in about 1972?

When the lh motor mount separated on our '66 Newport 383 2bbl, I noticed that on quick accelerations, the pipe from the a/c compressor would touch the underside of the hood reinforcements and insulator pad. I got some 10 gauge wire and fashioned a reatraint between the body and the engine until we could get it replaced, plus driving a bit more sedately. Main issues were off-idle and not specifically in higher-speed "passing gear" situations.

Thanks for posting that picture of the installed cable!

CBODY67
 
Change the fluid and filter. While doing this adjust the bands as well. Easy to do and will adjust for wear.
I just rebuilt my 727. It was my first rebuild and was pretty easy with the shop manual. I used no special tools but I have a very well equipped home shop. The rebuild works great and I’m super happy driving my 66 Fury around now after the build.

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It seems to me Chrysler stopped using those wire straps (to contain the engine when the driver side mount breaks) in the 1969 model year - does that seem about right? I haven't seen one on any of my 1970 and up models that I can recall.............
sounds right. if the original poster has an engine that twists enough to be able to see the mount stretch, it might be a good idea though.
 
This thread title gives me a chuckle every time I see it. Reminds me of something my girls might say.

Well done
 
I like that style a lot. I googled, but haven't found it. Do you have a source? Looks like it would save motor mounts.

you know about the motor mounts with built in locks for drivers side? Schumaker and someone else makes them cheaper.
 
I make my own engine mount limiters - allows for the rubber to do the smoothing out but on hard load it limits stretch... I used stainless fasteners FWIW.

My mount mod 1 (small).jpg
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My mount mod bolt (small).jpg
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I make my own engine mount limiters - allows for the rubber to do the smoothing out but on hard load it limits stretch... I used stainless fasteners FWIW.

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Those look nice. Budnicks over at FBBO told me about those years ago but I couldn’t find the right fastners and someone had two up for sale of the cheaper Schumacher style so I bought them.

Yours are WAY cheaper tho and look as effective.
 
Thanks. I don't know if one can even get the Schumacher Polylocks any more, but perhaps they're still making them.

looks like Mancini has them but they’re $229 bucks. The others are @ $135.

Poly-Loc Mount Set


Chrysler2


I got a really good deal on the ones I got years ago. I’d try your method if I need more. What are those fasteners called and dimensions?
 
I got mine at my local Lowes or Home Depot I believe. It may have been Fastenal.

Try Fastenal first.

Take the pic of the nut and bolt assembly with you - easier than wading through the search functions...

FWIW the thick black washer is just home made from rubber sheeting I have.
 
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Rebuilding a 727 isn't as easy as that book is making it sound if you are led to believe a couple special tools like slide hammers are all that are required. Actually, the factory service manual is really pretty good and complete about what is needed in terms of special tools and what detail steps you will need to take to rebuild one. I am not saying it is hard, but the first time doing one isn't easy either and some special tools that aren't real cheap are pretty much a necessity IMO.
I respectfully disagree, I've done a few, and with videos, and a book, find it pretty simple. Even my 8 yr old daughter helped!

Simple tools except the forward clutch piston tool to compress the piston. I made mine, but c clamps could be used. Check all clearances!
 
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