Timing chain replacement.

celticwarlock

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Hello, all.

Are the replacement roller timing chains from Summit any good? I'm sure a number of different brands would work, but I want to make sure that I'm not buying a lump. The 440 in my '69 NY has never been apart, and has only 56K on it, but I think it would be best to change it out on the basis of age alone.

After putting this off for the last year and a half or so, I'm just about ready to dive into this job, so any recommendations would be appreciated.

This is the component I'm considering:

Summit Racing SUM-G6604R-9 Summit Racing® True Roller Timing Sets | Summit Racing
 
I suspect that Summit is just like any other "re-seller", that they get their items of decent quality from sources that allow them to hit a certain (attractive) price point. Some are re- packaged from other known vendors, in Summit boxes at a reduced price. Some might not be. How close are you to a Summit or Jeg's store? Or will you be doing things by ordering and shipping?

On one hand, I suspect that any roller chain set of decent quality, with good installation, probably would last 100K miles. Why not get your local Chrysler parts department to order a Mopar Performance Roller Chain set (if the price is decently close)? Order the "single bolt" version unless somebody has put a 3-bolt cam in the motor. Otherwise, look for a Cloyes roller chain set and don't look back.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
The Cloyes double roller timing chain as other members agree can't be beat I would not take a chance with anything else. Changing the timing chain is time consuming and a pain in the butt. Do it once don't chance it for a few dollars.
 
I am using that exact summit double roller in my car. For 49.99 I am satisfied! Its got several key ways in the lower gear to advance and retard the cam timing if needed. I thought that was kind of neat, but mostly irrelevant for my application. I beat the snot out of my car too. I say go for it.

20200919_182340.jpg
 
When installing any timing chain set, remember that that part of the engine has "splash" lubrication, usually, as the camshaft does. On the cam sproket, be sure to lube the backside where it contacts the engine block (the black cam lube "moly paste" can work well there) and also pour some oil over the installed chain itself, letting it trickle down to the crank spsroket. Then put the cover on and complete the installation. This ensures, just as with new cam lobes, that there is lubrication upon initial start-up. The chain and sprokets should have some residual light lube on them to start with, but adding the motor oil and such ensures things start out a little better than otherwise

From my experiences,
CBODY67
 
SUMMIT.SPROCKET.jpg


Yea with this sprocket you can screw it up six ways till sunday. Go with the USA Cloyes double roller, or just get the standard chain if you DD it and not abusing the motor.

.
 
I put the exact chain and put it in my GTX last year. I was satisfied with the quality and it works well. I would use these in anything but a serious race only motor, and then I would probably use the Cloyes which is about 3xs the cost.

This one, and the most of the Cloyes, have the multiple keyways, which is a nice feature for tuning. With either choice, pay attention to the instructions, and use the appropriate keyway. Degreeing is always best, but with a stock type build, there shouldn't be any concern for valve to piston clearance, and installing it straight up, or 4 deg advanced if you want to up the cylinder pressure and maybe improve the bottom end power should not be a concern. By the way, some of the Cloyes products I have purchased I believe have also been made overseas.
 
View attachment 436064

Yea with this sprocket you can screw it up six ways till sunday. Go with the USA Cloyes double roller, or just get the standard chain if you DD it and not abusing the motor.

.

How??? Throw it on at 0...line it up dot to dot and the cam is timed "straight up"... want more low end torque? advance cam timing... want more peak HP? retard cam timing...

Simple stuff.
 
How??? Throw it on at 0...line it up dot to dot and the cam is timed "straight up"... want more low end torque? advance cam timing... want more peak HP? retard cam timing...

Simple stuff.
Yea but some of us don't have eyesight as young as you young'in do. Plus The OP is a "never been apart" motor and jigging around the cam timing on a factory motor may not have good results, sooooo..... you'll have to take it apart again.
 
Yea but some of us don't have eyesight as young as you young'in do. Plus The OP is a "never been apart" motor and jigging around the cam timing on a factory motor may not have good results, sooooo..... you'll have to take it apart again.
Its only gotta come apart again, if you want to make changes. Otherwise, throw it on the crank at 0, line it up dot to dot. Thats what I did. Same end result as the cloyes thats a few bucks more. It doesn't matter either way for the OP because chances are very good he will never have to mess with it again, especially in a stock highway cruising C body.

For 50 bucks its a great timing set, and I will use it again.
 
Its only gotta come apart again, if you want to make changes. Otherwise, throw it on the crank at 0, line it up dot to dot. Thats what I did. Same end result as the cloyes thats a few bucks more. It doesn't matter either way for the OP because chances are very good he will never have to mess with it again, especially in a stock highway cruising C body.

For 50 bucks its a great timing set, and I will use it again.
Yea but with all the key cuts those could be just another point of failure. I don't care if it's made in the USA, someone at the factory maybe was having a 'off' day.
Why change something not factory. Heck when I did the timing chain in my 1968 Fury III I cheeeped out and went with a standard chain & sprockets. Then when I got it apart and saw it didn't have the nylon top sprocket I just threw the chain on and returned the sprockets. Sometimes you gotta be cheep.
Don't worry if he posts up pictures of the job and we see the very bad top sprocket we'll advise him to pull the pan and clean the oil pump screen, then pop the valve covers to do the valve seals and then by page 6 of this thread we'll have'em stroking the motor!

:lol:
 
Yea but with all the key cuts those could be just another point of failure. I don't care if it's made in the USA, someone at the factory maybe was having a 'off' day.
Why change something not factory. Heck when I did the timing chain in my 1968 Fury III I cheeeped out and went with a standard chain & sprockets. Then when I got it apart and saw it didn't have the nylon top sprocket I just threw the chain on and returned the sprockets. Sometimes you gotta be cheep.
Don't worry if he posts up pictures of the job and we see the very bad top sprocket we'll advise him to pull the pan and clean the oil pump screen, then pop the valve covers to do the valve seals and then by page 6 of this thread we'll have'em stroking the motor!

:lol:
I'm just giving my opinion and review after using the exact chain he is thinking about...

it is definitely better then the stock junk

20210116_130607.jpg


20210116_130613.jpg
 
Yea but with all the key cuts those could be just another point of failure. I don't care if it's made in the USA, someone at the factory maybe was having a 'off' day.
Why change something not factory. Heck when I did the timing chain in my 1968 Fury III I cheeeped out and went with a standard chain & sprockets. Then when I got it apart and saw it didn't have the nylon top sprocket I just threw the chain on and returned the sprockets. Sometimes you gotta be cheep.
Don't worry if he posts up pictures of the job and we see the very bad top sprocket we'll advise him to pull the pan and clean the oil pump screen, then pop the valve covers to do the valve seals and then by page 6 of this thread we'll have'em stroking the motor!

:lol:
All those cuts won’t matter on most builds. Heck lots of ppl use that on high end bracket motors with astronomical spring tension. Kim
 
440 Source has a set for a reasonable price as well.

In the end, I may go with the Summit set because if I ever do want to alter the valve timing, at least I have that option with that kit. As long as it holds together, I don't see why I should buy a set that is more expensive, but is capable of doing less.

I'm guessing my 440 will need the single bolt cam gear, correct?

Also, can I use a small block crank bolt to re-install the harmonic balancer? I know there is a tool you can buy just for this particular part of the job, but this is the only 440 I own, and I can't see myself investing in a special tool that I will never use again for its stated purpose.
 
440 Source has a set for a reasonable price as well.

In the end, I may go with the Summit set because if I ever do want to alter the valve timing, at least I have that option with that kit. As long as it holds together, I don't see why I should buy a set that is more expensive, but is capable of doing less.

I'm guessing my 440 will need the single bolt cam gear, correct?

Also, can I use a small block crank bolt to re-install the harmonic balancer? I know there is a tool you can buy just for this particular part of the job, but this is the only 440 I own, and I can't see myself investing in a special tool that I will never use again for its stated purpose.

The puller and installer is cheap at harbor freight and will turn out to be a pretty handy thing to have on hand. However I wouldn't use a bolt to pull the balancer onto the crank. You run the risk of the bolt breaking in the crank or stripping then you are really in deep crap.

Use a chunk of wood and a decent mallet if you don't wanna grab the tool.

Single bolt cam gear.

The summit chain will treat you well, I am very happy with mine.

I also think its funny these guys scream Cloyes. CLOYES...but didn't even provide a link to one for you to consider.
 
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