The convertor fill in park is another goodie. I don't know what is involved though. I suspect that is more a 904 issue.
TF 727 "How To" shift lever seal replacement
- Thread starter MBar
- Start date
SO today I dopeed the pan and valve body and removed the old seal with really no problems at all. BUT: drained the converter this time too and the drain plug is done unfortunatly. Lost some threads somehow. But at least the thread of the converer looks ok. But where the hell can I get a new drain plug? I thought it´s as easy as oil pan drain plug but nothigns seems to be out there. Any Ideas?
P.S. Is there just the shaft seal I need? Heard of some smaller seal to replace too while I am on it one for kickdown whatever thing...?!
P.S. Is there just the shaft seal I need? Heard of some smaller seal to replace too while I am on it one for kickdown whatever thing...?!
Hardware store
It should be a tapered pipe thread. Many transmission shops drill and tap converter drains. Find a pipe plug the right size. Bring the original into the store with you.
Guess these should fit then?? ( I am in GER so...) Harley Davidson Custom S&S 1/8-27 NPT PLUG Verschluss Stopfen OEM: 45830-48 | eBay
Can't guarantee it but it should work. It is probably a USA tapered pipe thread. If you find one the right diameter and thread screw it on by hand. It should screw in 4 or 5 turns before it get's tight. Snug it up. tapered pipe thread usually seals fine without sealer or thread tape.
Frank Odenthal
Member
Hallo Stoffauge, welches Werkzeug hast du zum Ausbau des dichtringes von der Schaltwelle gekauft ? Würdest du es weiterverkaufen ? Die Reparatur steht mir auch noch bevor. Ohne große tropfwanne unter dem Auto komme ich nicht mehr aus....
Moin ! Mir war das Werkzeug zu teurer dafür dass es auch deutlich billiger geht, nur halt mit mehr Aufwand . Hab Wanne und valvebody abgebaut und dann den simmerring rausgedrückt von innen und neuen Eingezogen. Für einen Schrauber wirklich ein Kinderspiel gewesen . Hatte zwar erst Filter gewechselt daher zuerst zum Werkzeug tendiert, aber da es mit ein wenig mehr Aufwand deutlich billiger geht, ist das für mich die bessere Lösung gewesen
Sry. To make it short : he asked if would sell the seal shaft remover tool now where I am done . I replied I never got it and did it without by removing pan and valve body . A bit more work , but was easy and way cheaper .
3175375
Senior Member
Frank said “Hello cloth eye, which tool did you buy for removing the sealing ring from the switching shaft ?Would you resell it? The repair is still ahead of me.Without a large drip fir under the car, I can't do it anymore.”
Cloth eye (I think that should be Stouffage’s nick name LoL) said “Moin! For me the tool was too expensive for that it also goes much cheaper, just with more effort.Have removed tub and valvebody and then squeezed out the simmerring from the inside and new retracted.For a screwdriver really have been a breeze. Although filters had changed first so first it tended to the tool, but since it is much cheaper with a little more effort, this was the better solution for me.”
Frank Odenthal
Member
Hello 3175375,
Thank you for this perfect translation. I thought it would be an European deal I could manage in german.
Where did you learn german ?
Regards Frank
Thank you for this perfect translation. I thought it would be an European deal I could manage in german.
Where did you learn german ?
Regards Frank
3175375
Senior Member
I have been in Germany, but actually know very little. Drie dunkel comes to mind
RJ Squirrell
Member
Hello thought I would add another simple way for doing this, just did it on mine after reading about needing a special tool. I did not want to remove the pan AGAIN either (after thinking that was the cause of the red wet spot-)
I took this angle drill attachment I have and with the help of a small mirror drilled a hole in the seal and pried it out with a small screwdriver. Pressed the new one back in with a socket and a C-clamp. Went pretty easy. No more leak.
I took this angle drill attachment I have and with the help of a small mirror drilled a hole in the seal and pried it out with a small screwdriver. Pressed the new one back in with a socket and a C-clamp. Went pretty easy. No more leak.
Whiskytango
Member
For the thifty members here this works as well.
I hdon't need to change the filter and change the ATF, so I found a generic tool sold by NAPA & Etc. Will this work? It is relatively cheap $8.99. Thank you!
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...exitBh19fgBNEAQYAiABEgKrM_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...exitBh19fgBNEAQYAiABEgKrM_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&
Yes, that one should indeed work. Mine is getting pretty worn, so I might pick up one myself.
If you are going to get a new seal, then just to be sure it is the right size, you should order the seal in advance along with the tool so that you can compare the seal size with the tool size to make sure they are compatible.
The tool otherwise looks exactly like the one I use
If you are going to get a new seal, then just to be sure it is the right size, you should order the seal in advance along with the tool so that you can compare the seal size with the tool size to make sure they are compatible.
The tool otherwise looks exactly like the one I use
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I am happy to see there are other ways. That's a beautiful thing 
I chose the special tool because it came with the seal (plus extras for my other car) and allowed for the available space. I'm getting a bit "aged" and had a hard time seeing and maneuvering under the car (wish I had a lift) and getting my big hands in there. And, strangely enough, I like any opportunity to use my c-clamps! LOL
I chose the special tool because it came with the seal (plus extras for my other car) and allowed for the available space. I'm getting a bit "aged" and had a hard time seeing and maneuvering under the car (wish I had a lift) and getting my big hands in there. And, strangely enough, I like any opportunity to use my c-clamps! LOL
