Convertible top slow to raise

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

So a few months ago I had a new top installed. After letting it stretch as recommended and now that we have experienced some warmer weather I have taken the top down a few times, which goes without issue. But the top now raises quite slowly, struggling, which it didn't do before the new top. Could this be a result of increased friction\pressure at the hinges due to the new top and needs lubricating or could the motor just be failing after all this time? I replaced the cylinders and lines a few years ago and filled the motor with transmission fluid according to the FSM instructions. Any low lying issues to look at before getting a new motor and installing it? Thanks for any suggestions.

I thought there was a similar thread on here not long ago but I was not able to find it.

 

[413]

Lubing all of the pivots on the top will be a benefit. It’s 50+ years old, it needs some help. I would hope the shop did that when all the top material was off. But that’s probably wishful thinking. Look at the top frame and count all the pivot (Friction) points.

Are you operating the top with engine off or engine running at Or above 1200 RPM? Doing it will have 14 to 14.5 volts to the motor instead of 12.6 or less with engine off. Try it both ways and listen to the mother operate. It will sound and operate different. Remember when voltage goes down amps go up, and that’s harder on the motor.

I realize you said it changed with a new top and it could be heavier material or pulled tighter. Or your electrical system could be strained, or tired electrics or hydraulics in the top motor and cylinders. That thing has been up and down a hundred times recently with a new top install job.

 

[polara71]

So a few months ago I had a new top installed. After letting it stretch as recommended and now that we have experienced some warmer weather I have taken the top down a few times, which goes without issue. But the top now raises quite slowly, struggling, which it didn't do before the new top. Could this be a result of increased friction\pressure at the hinges due to the new top and needs lubricating or could the motor just be failing after all this time? I replaced the cylinders and lines a few years ago and filled the motor with transmission fluid according to the FSM instructions. Any low lying issues to look at before getting a new motor and installing it? Thanks for any suggestions.

I thought there was a similar thread on here not long ago but I was not able to find it.

Check for air in the lines. Check for leaks at your hose connections. Check to see there is enough fluid in the reservoir.
It is an electric hydraulic pump. Unless something is binding there isn't much to it.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Lubing all of the pivots on the top will be a benefit. It’s 50+ years old, it needs some help. I would hope the shop did that when all the top material was off. But that’s probably wishful thinking. Look at the top frame and count all the pivot (Friction) points.

Are you operating the top with engine off or engine running at Or above 1200 RPM? Doing it will have 14 to 14.5 volts to the motor instead of 12.6 or less with engine off. Try it both ways and listen to the mother operate. It will sound and operate different. Remember when voltage goes down amps go up, and that’s harder on the motor.

I realize you said it changed with a new top and it could be heavier material or pulled tighter. Or your electrical system could be strained, or tired electrics or hydraulics in the top motor and cylinders. That thing has been up and down a hundred times recently with a new top install job.

Car always running. Tried raising it with the car in neutral a couple of times, no difference. Seems to strain hardest when first coming out of the well. Will have to check fluid levels when I finish my dining room flooring project.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Check for air in the lines. Check for leaks at your hose connections. Check to see there is enough fluid in the reservoir.
It is an electric hydraulic pump. Unless something is binding there isn't much to it.

Exactly, seems pretty simple system. Just asking for those who may have had a similar experience.

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

I remove my pump from its mount and fill it to about 1/3" from the top holding the pump upright. Also slowly remove the fill screw to let the air out first. And lastly, listen to the sound the fluid and motor make. You can hear the difference if too much air and not enough fluid.

 

[Snotty]

Fluid in the pump could be a little low.

On the other hand, mine has gone up slowly for 17 years; it lowers a lot faster. If I try to raise it on a driveway that slopes, forget it; it will not raise.

 

[Dsertdog]

If you're trying to raise it with the engine at curb idle you're working the pump at it's hardest.
Try raising the idle up to choke on speed and then running the top. It will help.

 

[bluefury361]

I'm guessing low fluid, air in the lines or a leak. Full the pump to the top of the hole and cycle the top several times.
If it lowers without any issue then the joints are probably ok.
If the header latch's latch with little effort then the top is not likely to tight.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Latching takes a little bit of effort, but not horrible. I will try adding some rpm's to the motor next time while running the switch. And when time permits I will take a look at the fluid and the lines. When I filled it after installing the new cylinders I used a turkey baster and filled it until it overflowed, but that was with the old top. If everything listed checks out OK is a new pump\motor going to change anything or this is just what these cars do? Thanks for the advice.

 

[sprice]

Lubing all of the pivots on the top will be a benefit. It’s 50+ years old, it needs some help. I would hope the shop did that when all the top material was off. But that’s probably wishful thinking. Look at the top frame and count all the pivot (Friction) points.

Are you operating the top with engine off or engine running at Or above 1200 RPM? Doing it will have 14 to 14.5 volts to the motor instead of 12.6 or less with engine off. Try it both ways and listen to the mother operate. It will sound and operate different. Remember when voltage goes down amps go up, and that’s harder on the motor.

I realize you said it changed with a new top and it could be heavier material or pulled tighter. Or your electrical system could be strained, or tired electrics or hydraulics in the top motor and cylinders. That thing has been up and down a hundred times recently with a new top install job.

Wouldn't a relay be good upgrade for this problem?

 

[Ripinator]

Car always running. Tried raising it with the car in neutral a couple of times, no difference. Seems to strain hardest when first coming out of the well. Will have to check fluid levels when I finish my dining room flooring project.

I replaced the pistons and lines in my '66 convertible too. The suggestions regarding air in the lines and sufficient fluid are right on. The system bleeds itself by being cycled-operated a few times. The only other issue I ran into was a marginal ground, which was cured by cleaning the ground wire attaching point. One other thing: I removed the pump/motor entirely to fill the reservoir, and I used DEX/MERC fluid (as recommended by the piston vendor). The motor/pump is attached with four little rubber grommets with "tits" that go through small holes into the car-body. I had to sever mine to get the pump out. When I re-installed the pump, I bolted it back to the body using four bolts and locknuts and what was left of the severed grommets. Here is a short video:

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

regarding filling the pump, I have seen other posts on here saying to fill the pump before installing, but the FSM and even the instructions from the shop that I got the pump from says to only fill when the pump is in place (which is why I used the turkey baster).

Something I just thought of too is that the top now has a glass rear window where before it was plastic\vinyl, so there is some extra weight that wasn't there before.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Wouldn't a relay be good upgrade for this problem?

I don't know, that is why I am asking.

 

[1970cat]

if it is cool outside the material will tighten and stiffen. they all strain some and are tougher to close when cold.