'68 Newport dash vacuum actuator removal and identification

Metalmarty

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Hi all,

I did a vacuum test to check to see if my dash controls work on my '68 Newport. I came to tje co conclusion that 2 of the 3 dual port vacuum actuators are not working properly anymore :(

I can't get the one in the back out (with the longest rod) Anyone have any clue how to remove this? I've been able to loosen the nuts. But I cant seem to get it out.
IMG_20210326_123740.jpg


I got the one on the bottom out (with the shortest rod). But it doesn't have any part number? Are these still available?
IMG_20210326_124522.jpg
IMG_20210326_115304.jpg



And what PNs do I need for both of these?
 
Let me see if I have any extras.
DEE398BD-6C96-45E7-A9DD-CEE14C30BE62.jpeg
19E78A9D-0616-4ADF-B57E-04D7900B8B8D.jpeg
 
You might want to just pull the entire HVAC unit out of the car. I think it will come out without having to remove the dash. The service manual may have info on that. It's going to be due for a good cleaning and lubrication of all the linkage. As you can see in your photo, the foam rubber seal on the recirculation door is turning to dust, and should be replaced.

heater box.JPG


Jeff
 
As Jeff ^^^ alluded to above you can remove it without taking the dash out.

The fan motor has to be removed from under the hood. Also there are four or five nuts that need to be removed from under the hood, they hold it to the fire wall. Inside the car if I remember correctly (it's been 20 some years) you will need to remove the ash tray to be able to get to the duct work and HVAC switch that is located below the radio. Be extremely careful when removing the cluster of vacuum lines from the back of the switch. The nipples break off very easily then you will need a new switch. While you can look at the switch I suggest that you do. The parts of the switch sometimes separate which allows the switch to work on some settings, but not all of them.

As a side note; if you intend to do anything with the radio now is the time to do it. In order to get the radio out it comes down through the dash not straight out toward the front seat. I would hate for you to have to do all of the work over again.
 
I got the one in the back with the long rod out.
The top vacuum connector broke off, wtf.
I found it still connected to the hose, so I think I can repair it :)
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The one with the short hose has a small leak past the actuator arm rubber. Looks like it's fixable too. I hope so.

I've pulled the vacuum lines from the back of the switch unit and vacuum tested them. All vacuum lines are intakt and dont leak! :)


Thanks Matt!
Which books are those? Looks handy.

You might want to just pull the entire HVAC unit out of the car. I think it will come out without having to remove the dash. The service manual may have info on that. It's going to be due for a good cleaning and lubrication of all the linkage. As you can see in your photo, the foam rubber seal on the recirculation door is turning to dust, and should be replaced.

View attachment 448704

Jeff

Thanks for the info Jeff.
I was hoping to fix the dash and vent stuff without taking the whole HVAC unit out.
My goal is to drive the car this year (before winter returns), so I'm making sure that all electrical stuff works and that all mechanical parts are in good condition.

Taking the HVAC unit out to recondition it is a nice job for next winter :)

As Jeff ^^^ alluded to above you can remove it without taking the dash out.

The fan motor has to be removed from under the hood. Also there are four or five nuts that need to be removed from under the hood, they hold it to the fire wall. Inside the car if I remember correctly (it's been 20 some years) you will need to remove the ash tray to be able to get to the duct work and HVAC switch that is located below the radio. Be extremely careful when removing the cluster of vacuum lines from the back of the switch. The nipples break off very easily then you will need a new switch. While you can look at the switch I suggest that you do. The parts of the switch sometimes separate which allows the switch to work on some settings, but not all of them.

As a side note; if you intend to do anything with the radio now is the time to do it. In order to get the radio out it comes down through the dash not straight out toward the front seat. I would hate for you to have to do all of the work over again.

Also thanks!
My switch turns on the fan motor on Max A/C and A/C mode, but not on Heat and Def mode. I figured that was because I had a masse vacuum leak. Can that be the case?
Is switching the blower motor on/off also vacuum operated on OFF/Heat/Def modes?

Thanks for the tip on the radio.
I've partially rewired the dash and the bulkhead connector. And I've fixed all the switches including the dimmer switch. I took that opportunity to install the radio since a previous owner took it out.

I got a AM/FM thumbwheel radio of Cbarge that's working well. My speaker was also toast after 50 years, so I've replaces that while I was busy.

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Looks way worse on the picture than in real life.
I've restored all the wiring to original specs, but I did bypass the ammeter.

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Don't mind the mess... :p
 
@Metalmarty
That’s from the ‘68 parts book. I refer to it several times a week, very handy!:thumbsup:
 
@Metalmarty
That’s from the ‘68 parts book. I refer to it several times a week, very handy!:thumbsup:

Thanks for the info! Seems like a good book to buy.

After some testing I've noticed that both actuators have a leaking membrane :(
2837891 (AC door, long shaft) and 2837889 (heater shutoff door, short shaft)
If anyone has them laying around or knows where I can find them, please let me know.
 
No idea how easy it is to get those parts (I imagine you can find them on eBay or even here for cheaper if nothing else), but this thread did get me pondering if it is possible to replace the vacuum components here entirely with an electronic actuator and switch, while keeping the look of the original buttons. Vacuum parts are a pain.

Mainly because on my Newport (same year as yours), the defrost function seems to operate fine (I hear the door moving), but does not turn off when switched to another setting, and the system has to be set to OFF to be switched properly.

So it got me wondering for a far more reliable electronic method, to avoid the issue here, since vacuum diaphragms turn to dust with age, and are generally a pain to replace and find parts for.
Good luck with the restoration!
 
I got the one in the back with the long rod out.
The top vacuum connector broke off, wtf.
I found it still connected to the hose, so I think I can repair it :)
View attachment 449371 :p
We're you able to fix the broken nipple on the actuator with the long rod. I have two of them that are broken off...:BangHead:
@Metalmarty
 
We're you able to fix the broken nipple on the actuator with the long rod. I have two of them that are broken off...:BangHead:
@Metalmarty

Yes I managed to fix that one, but apart from the broken nipple it also had a small leak in the membrane.
I ended up with used actuators I got from @detmatt
But fixing the nipple was easy and well worth a try :)
I still have that actuator, I'll take a picture this weekend

In my case the broken nipple was still attached to the vacuum hose.
I cleaned up the metal around the nipple hole in the actuator and on the nipple and made sure I knew how far It should go in the hole.
If you place it too far into the hole it will prevent the actuator from making the full stroke!
I carefully pulled the membrane away from the hole to lessen my chance to damage the membrane.
Placed the nipple in the hole on the right height, applied some flux and heated the nipple and the metal around it with a small torch lighter.
Applied a little bit of Tin (containing lead ofcourse) around the nipple making sure it flows all around.
Let it cool down, done!

Make sure no tin, flux or debris falls into the actuator through the hole, that will cause excessive wear in the membrane!

This is the lighter I've used (The flame is smaller in real life :p )
HTB1W0gzPgHqK1RjSZFPq6AwapXak.jpg
 
Yes I managed to fix that one, but apart from the broken nipple it also had a small leak in the membrane.
I ended up with used actuators I got from @detmatt
But fixing the nipple was easy and well worth a try :)
I still have that actuator, I'll take a picture this weekend

In my case the broken nipple was still attached to the vacuum hose.
I cleaned up the metal around the nipple hole in the actuator and on the nipple and made sure I knew how far It should go in the hole.
If you place it too far into the hole it will prevent the actuator from making the full stroke!
I carefully pulled the membrane away from the hole to lessen my chance to damage the membrane.
Placed the nipple in the hole on the right height, applied some flux and heated the nipple and the metal around it with a small torch lighter.
Applied a little bit of Tin (containing lead ofcourse) around the nipple making sure it flows all around.
Let it cool down, done!

Make sure no tin, flux or debris falls into the actuator through the hole, that will cause excessive wear in the membrane!

This is the lighter I've used (The flame is smaller in real life :p )
HTB1W0gzPgHqK1RjSZFPq6AwapXak.jpg

Thanks
 
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