Adjustable Strut Rods

could you explain, did you weld a bolt in on the LCA side and then put a nut on it or did you just use a bolt altogether that goes through the LCA and in the Rod? I'm curious on how you did that!
 
No I used grade 8 5/8"x2" bolts. Same way PST did theirs.
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Great information, thanks for sharing all of this (especially the parts list) Did I read correctly that you used stock style strut rod bushings at the radiator support? I'm completely digging your car and your mindset!
 
Great information, thanks for sharing all of this (especially the parts list) Did I read correctly that you used stock style strut rod bushings at the radiator support? I'm completely digging your car and your mindset!
Yes I used the "Moog K7027" Suspension Strut Rod Bushing Kit, I have about 400 miles on it since the install, rechecked tightness of everything, hasn't moved a bit.
 
I'm gonna copy you for both my wagon and my 71 SF! I'm even getting Drum spindles so I can use Wilwood brakes on my 71. My 65 Satellite had Wilwoods on all corners and it stopped extremely well. Again, thanks for the great posts!

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I'm gonna copy you for both my wagon and my 71 SF! I'm even getting Drum spindles so I can use Wilwood brakes on my 71. My 65 Satellite had Wilwoods on all corners and it stopped extremely well. Again, thanks for the great posts!

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Sweet B body there!
I really like my Wilwood brakes so far. I ain't easy on them either.
Is there a reason you would want to go adjustable strut rods? In my case, the pocket for the front strut bar mounting point was pushed back just a hair, and the car always acted funny driving through dips, like a bump steer. I was being really anal about making sure it was all square, turns out torsion bars fixed that problem.
I don't think you can beat factory engineering on an important suspension component like a strut bar, I sure wouldn't reinvent the wheel if not needed.
 
well, I like to over-think and overkill most projects I take on. The idea of adjustable strut rods (for adding caster for stability) have always been something that I 'liked' and I've got it sketched out in a notebook somewhere from when I did my Black 71 Sport Fury. I'm sorta recreating that car using the remaining pieces (Dana 60, Alston battleship ladder bars and panhard bar, exhaust, transmission...) it's not a 'practical' car at all, but the original sure was fun. The black car, Vicky, is long gone. The Brown car, Coco Chanel, is back in my possession and all of those parts are just sitting in my garage/basement. So, you see...I gotta use them!

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Wow you know which direction you are headed, that black Fury looks mean.
Any idea what headers those are?
I thought about using the ASRs to pull for a little extra caster, then chickened out at the thought of tweaking the LCA bushings. I guess a guy could pull a little, how much as the $64 dollar question.
 
Wow you know which direction you are headed, that black Fury looks mean.
Any idea what headers those are?

Thanks! Those are custom headers I had made with 2 1/4 primaries with 3" collectors and full 3" exhaust with an X pipe. It's a slip fit design that I can take off without moving the engine off the engine mounts. The long upper tube slips out to adjust the valve lash or get at spark plugs. They will work on a 440 based engine with Indy raised port or Victor Edelbrock heads. So, I'm planning on building a similar engine, but bigger and kinda milder. Like 510 cubic inch and around 600 hp/600tq should be easy.
 
I guess I put about 3000 miles on these and a buncha wheels up starts at the strip. I think the hinged joint doesn't stress the front SB bushings so much.
Tire wear is nill.
 
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