Stock Mopar 6x9 speakers in the old oval speaker holes in the trunk?

I used Utah speakers.
6x9” in back, 4x10” in front.
They both had whizzer cones to extend the highs.

Next best were Jensen co-axial.
The Jensen tri-axial sucked! Too tinny sounding

Now that you reminded me, yes, the Jensen triaxials sucked. Thanks++ for that. I'll tune my Golden Oldy Search algorithm accordingly
 
PLUS music with "Channel A - Channel B" stereo separation. Back when Jensen Coaxial 6x9s were a great upgrade for the noisy environment of an automobile, plus some staticy (back then) reception issues. Reberb units claimed "concert hall realism", but those earlier multiplex/stereo units took it to a much higher level. The higher tape speed of the 4- and 8-track tapes helped, too, with the earlier tapes.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

YES! The EARLY 4/8 track tapes were well made, as were the players, but by the late 1970s, they were slotted to join the dinosaurs. I recall the analog vs digital debates of the late 1980s well. Remember Digital Audio Tape? Like analog laser disks, such a half arsed bridge technology was doomed from its malconception, but I miss the old 8 tracks of the early 1970s. Now that vinyl has been resurrected for the analog purists (with money, I love analog and vacuum tubes too, but must forego such tastes) I might get a good turntable for some vinyl and rip FLAC tracks, as I would CERTAINLY NEVER USE BITTORRENT TO DEPRIVE THE RECORDING INDUSTRY OF A PENNY'S PROFIT!! COMMUNISM!

Anyway, audio engineering must remain in the back seat for Mathilda's continued regeneration. I have an axle shaft to clean up, re-bearing, then install, rear springs, a stacked plate tranny cooler, possibly a lower ball joint pair, et cetera ad infinitum all well in front of any further audio installation for Tilly. I'm the ONLY one old enough to have seen a rock concert (or a couple hundred) and my BEATMEAT earbuds really do a damned fine job of conveying the toonz to what's left of my eardrums. Combine those with some soft/hardware also designed by Dr. Dre, and you have some mighty fine listening! I have a laptop so equipped even.

Be that as it may, I look forward to hearing some music from an old school tuner through old style speakers when I cruise solo occasionally! When doing so, I don't WANT to be reminded of how many years have actually passed.
 
I’ve recorded some of my cleaner analog lps to digital. Still love that warm sound from an lp as apposed to the clipped mp3 type digital sound.
 
All food for FUTURE upgrades. Our luxury budget is VERY tight. Having looked at the 6x9s out there, I think some 90+dB sensitivity should respond to the signal from that KOSS unit well. Hell, I can run it into a bluetooth amp easily for that matter. I extracted the old Motorola 3 yrs ago, just to see how much flexibility I would have for twin shafted receiver options. We want a working, antique receiver which fits into the dash. This I have purchased and will use.

The PROBLEM with high wattage amplifiers is that high POWER MUST BE SUPPLIED BY THE AUTOMOTIVE CIRCUITRY!! A 60 amp alternator running full out (720W @ 12VDC, though 840W @ 14VDC, until the field windings burn up would just), won't deliver enough juice to sustain a 750 W load. So any expenditure on amplifiers requires further expenditure on a suitable alternator, AND WIRING, to accommodate it. NO such expenses suit either my needs or those of the wage-earner of our household, The Babushka. If I spend $ on a high current alternator, as I've considered, an electric water pump and second electric radiator fan would warrant the expense, but high wattage tunes won't get it. My Dr. Dre BEATMEATearbuds do fine for that kind of stoner listening as it is.

I've seen some nice looking Pioneer and JBL 6x9s with sufficient sensitivity for an old style receiver. If I drop a little more bread, I think the 100-110 dB sort would do VERY well, given that Mathilda is a FAMILY RIDE, which hauls 3 young females driven by one old junky hated by insurance actuaries and cops for his continued breathing and breeding. The youngsters don't dig their daddy's loud jams at ALL, and I shan't change their sensible tastes, or equip the ride for any potential tom-toms should puberty seduce the spawn in a few short years; (DEO) ABSIT!

The JBL Stage 2 now IS a PERFECT amp for my purpose, and THAT I likely WILL obtain, later, and install. 60 W is a very REASONABLE gain for our collective audio tastes, which will do for FM radio Mass on Sunday (Our Parish stays on top of the latest COVID 19 fashions, Deo gratias) and will also enhance Daddy's appreciation of Mr. John Osbourne's Homiletics in "War Pigs" or Mr. Robert Plant's hymnals such as "Stairway to Heaven." For this tip I sincerely thank you.

No doubt amps require more work but some of what your worried about is addressed by class D amplifiers that are more efficient and require less power to make the wattage

This 4 x 60w example is small enough to for under the dash and only requires a 15 amp fuse. Plus its bluetooth ready and $100. Class D allows a small footprint that then has created a set of amps called motorsports amps that are for ATVs, motorcycles, boats. Small stuff but it all can be used in cars too. I don't have this amp but I have 2 other similar ones in another car (4 chanel & 2 channel that fits under the drivers seat easy). This style will go in my Fury when its time.
 
The PROBLEM with high wattage amplifiers is that high POWER MUST BE SUPPLIED BY THE AUTOMOTIVE CIRCUITRY!! A 60 amp alternator running full out (720W @ 12VDC, though 840W @ 14VDC, until the field windings burn up would just), won't deliver enough juice to sustain a 750 W load. So any expenditure on amplifiers requires further expenditure on a suitable alternator, AND WIRING, to accommodate it. NO such expenses suit either my needs or those of the wage-earner of our household, The Babushka. If I spend $ on a high current alternator, as I've considered, an electric water pump and second electric radiator fan would warrant the expense, but high wattage tunes won't get it. My Dr. Dre BEATMEATearbuds do fine for that kind of stoner listening as it is.
The power ratings they list on those small 2-channel amps are more hypothetical peak ratings and are to be taken with a grain of salt. In reality the amplifier current draw will be far less & for practical purposes a 10A fuse would likely never trip unless you want to power an big subwoofer or enjoy making your ears bleed for extended periods. A 60 amp alternator would be more than adequate.
 
I loved my Jensen coaxial 6/9's in the 70's. I had one of those small amps to add to my pioneer supertuner. Worked great. Had considered finding those Jenens used and re cone them. Actually I would like to just find the speaker grills for my back deck and use new speakers. Does Bluetooth sound any good.? Are there equalizers anymore? I am intrigued by the 40 waItt a side amp with Bluetooth and bypass my stock radio that is so efficient. I don't want to upgrade the electrical in my 69 Fury. It has a stock alternator so I am guessing 35 amps? Does that sound right? Maybe wire the amp to the battery with a relay to a switch or ignition?
 
loved my Jensen coaxial 6/9's in the 70's. I had one of those small amps to add to my pioneer supertuner. Worked great. Had considered finding those Jenens used and re cone them. Actually I would like to just find the speaker grills for my back deck and use new speakers. Does Bluetooth sound any good.? Are there equalizers anymore? I am intrigued by the 40 waItt a side amp with Bluetooth and bypass my stock radio that is so efficient. I don't want to upgrade the electrical in my 69 Fury. It has a stock alternator so I am guessing 35 amps? Does that sound right? Maybe wire the amp to the battery with a relay to a switch or ignition?
There are equalizers still and they are useful. I had one in car not that long ago that connected to my head unit AND my phone with a switch on the front to select between the 2. As far as amp wiring to battery and relay most amps have their own relay built in that requires a second connection to a switched 12v source. When the key is on then the amp draws power from the main power wire from the battery. If you want an EQ I could send a few links.
 
There are equalizers still and they are useful. I had one in car not that long ago that connected to my head unit AND my phone with a switch on the front to select between the 2. As far as amp wiring to battery and relay most amps have their own relay built in that requires a second connection to a switched 12v source. When the key is on then the amp draws power from the main power wire from the battery. If you want an EQ I could send a few links.

That would be great to see a link of if it is not much trouble of a EQ unit.
I appreciate it.
 
There are equalizers still and they are useful. I had one in car not that long ago that connected to my head unit AND my phone with a switch on the front to select between the 2. As far as amp wiring to battery and relay most amps have their own relay built in that requires a second connection to a switched 12v source. When the key is on then the amp draws power from the main power wire from the battery. If you want an EQ I could send a few links.

Equalizers ARE useful! Furthermore, such would be in keeping with the aesthetique I want for this ride. By ALL means, if you feel the urge, DO post some links to equalizers. Hell, I've not conversed about this sort of thing since 1979!
 
Before I start there are so many options other than what I'm going to suggest so please make alternative suggestions. My assumption is you have an existing stock HU (low power) but you also want to use your phone wirelessly to play music. You want little more volume than the stock HU and you don't want to have to buy a new alternator. Understand even if you have a 1000 watt amplifier it will work with the stock alternator it just wont get that loud without trying rob power from lights, battery recharge etc. So we need an efficient amp and high sensitivity speakers that can play louder on less wattage. And all of this shouldn't cost a lot or take up too much space. And while you dont need an old school EQ you asked about it so that's a part of this solution.

I owned this Clarion EQ in another car and had this setup - more or less. Put this under you dash. Connect you the speaker wires from your stock headunit to the Hi-level inputs on this eq. This will be your main input. Then use this Bluetooth receiver and mount it behind/under you dash and connect the 2 RCAs to the AUX IN rca inputs of the EQ. This will be you aux music source which is your phone. Then use this small (4"X6") MB Quart amp that should also fit under your dash. You will need 2 sets of RCAs - Front and rear - that will connect from the EQ to the amplifier. From your amplifier you will connect speaker wires to the front speakers. This Infinity reference 3.5 are good. You will need to cut a piece of paneling do adapt these 2 speakers to the single dash speaker hole. I've used them throughout the years. For the rear speakers try these 6X9s. When you turn on you stock headunit the EQ will turn on automatically and so will the amp. You can adjust the high and lows with the EQ knobs and can use the fader to balance front to rear. With the settings on the amp you can limit the bass getting to your dash speakers that they were not designed to play. For the Bluetooth you will pair your phone with the Bluetooth receiver ahead of time and when you start up the car the next time it will connect. To play phone music you press the Aux button on the EQ to switch to the BT receiver source. To control the volume you can use your phone or the volume knob on the EQ. And if you wanted a sub you could get a second amp and connect and control that too to the EQ.

And if you want a more expensive amp that is reviewed well and has a brand name try this kenwood

You can go cheaper than what I described and for example if you don't care about getting music from your stock HU there are other options that make more sense. But this combo will give good sound at a modest price and allow both phone and stock HU to function. The EQ does double duty. It lets you change the HI-Lows and combines the 2 sources. The amp should have its own wire to the battery - or starter stud, maybe starter relay. I used to do more of this but newer cars are pretty complicated. I'm looking forward to doing my fury and will replace the EQ with something more flexible, add 4 dash speakers, kick panel speakers (PO already cut holes) and 2 amps - bigger than the one I suggested. Have a good rest of your weekend all. mike
 
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Before I start there are so many options other than what I'm going to suggest so please make alternative suggestions. My assumption is you have an existing stock HU (low power) but you also want to use your phone wirelessly to play music. ....

Have a good rest of your weekend all. mike

THANK YOU MIKE, for your effort and thought toward my driving entertainment. For the present, I've tested the little KOSS unit with some modest Kenwood speakers I snarfed from Worst Buy yesterday for $45. (SALE!) So, all told, I'm out about $130 for this little luxury diversion, with the $15 NAPA antenna counted in. Everything works, which pleases us all well. I'll finish installing the stuff tomorrow, and by next Sunday, we can tune in for our Mass in the parking lot, if the inside of the Church is too crowded. I'll probably pick up one of those cassette player adapters which will permit me to use my phone's 128 GB SD card for music, and also to give a little pre-amplification to the player. This will have to do for some months, as I have plenty of stuff on the old car that needs attention before I get back to music. But I've pdf rendered this thread, for ease of reference, and your work here will be of use.
 
Thanks for all the info bnz84. Its going to take me some time to go through it all and the links. I really appreciate it.
 
YES! The EARLY 4/8 track tapes were well made, as were the players,

8-Tracks sucked... I'm glad I was young enough to miss out on the 4-tracks but did have a little battery powered 3 inch reel to reel, later to graduate to a audiophile Lafayette reel to reel (laff) even had a Akai 8-Track recorder:

Vintage Akai GXR-82D Stereo 8-Track Tape Recorder-Player..jpg


I see those units are going for a pretty penny now-a-daze, or at least someone on eekBay thinks so (0 bids).
I've been recording songs off of AM/FM radio since I was 5 or 6 years old, so guess I'm a life long commie eh? :rolleyes:
First reel to reel, 8-Tracks, cassette, CD's, heck I have a pretty fine internet free radio application on my PC now that will record up too 256k and split & title tracks (Most times)
RADIO.PLAYER.TITLE.BAR.jpg
.. cut out advertisements etc. I support music by paying to see live acts, many over the years if fact $$$$$. Any music I spread around is considered 'Free Promotion' and many artist's are starting to realize that, in fact many years ago in one of the famous RIAA cases it was proven that SONY was salting the internet with content to see what was popular. heh
You got to understand that some songs that we heard or liked on the radio weren't available down at the local Woolworth's in town in the 60's & 70's and some weren't worth buying the whole feck'in album for just 1 hit song.

Now if I could recoup all the lost time repairing and splicing my 8-Track tapes with my little Radio Shack splicing kit that would be a Godsend!

:rofl:
 
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Before I start there are so many options other than what I'm going to suggest so please make alternative suggestions. My assumption is you have an existing stock HU (low power) but you also want to use your phone wirelessly to play music. You want little more volume than the stock HU and you don't want to have to buy a new alternator. Understand even if you have a 1000 watt amplifier it will work with the stock alternator it just wont get that loud without trying rob power from lights, battery recharge etc. So we need an efficient amp and high sensitivity speakers that can play louder on less wattage. And all of this shouldn't cost a lot or take up too much space. And while you dont need an old school EQ you asked about it so that's a part of this solution.

I owned this Clarion EQ in another car and had this setup - more or less. Put this under you dash. Connect you the speaker wires from your stock headunit to the Hi-level inputs on this eq. This will be your main input. Then use this Bluetooth receiver and mount it behind/under you dash and connect the 2 RCAs to the AUX IN rca inputs of the EQ. This will be you aux music source which is your phone. Then use this small (4"X6") MB Quart amp that should also fit under your dash. You will need 2 sets of RCAs - Front and rear - that will connect from the EQ to the amplifier. From your amplifier you will connect speaker wires to the front speakers. This Infinity reference 3.5 are good. You will need to cut a piece of paneling do adapt these 2 speakers to the single dash speaker hole. I've used them throughout the years. For the rear speakers try these 6X9s. When you turn on you stock headunit the EQ will turn on automatically and so will the amp. You can adjust the high and lows with the EQ knobs and can use the fader to balance front to rear. With the settings on the amp you can limit the bass getting to your dash speakers that they were not designed to play. For the Bluetooth you will pair your phone with the Bluetooth receiver ahead of time and when you start up the car the next time it will connect. To play phone music you press the Aux button on the EQ to switch to the BT receiver source. To control the volume you can use your phone or the volume knob on the EQ. And if you wanted a sub you could get a second amp and connect and control that too to the EQ.

And if you want a more expensive amp that is reviewed well and has a brand name try this kenwood

You can go cheaper than what I described and for example if you don't care about getting music from your stock HU there are other options that make more sense. But this combo will give good sound at a modest price and allow both phone and stock HU to function. The EQ does double duty. It lets you change the HI-Lows and combines the 2 sources. The amp should have its own wire to the battery - or starter stud, maybe starter relay. I used to do more of this but newer cars are pretty complicated. I'm looking forward to doing my fury and will replace the EQ with something more flexible, add 4 dash speakers, kick panel speakers (PO already cut holes) and 2 amps - bigger than the one I suggested. Have a good rest of your weekend all. mike
Before I start there are so many options other than what I'm going to suggest so please make alternative suggestions. My assumption is you have an existing stock HU (low power) but you also want to use your phone wirelessly to play music. You want little more volume than the stock HU and you don't want to have to buy a new alternator. Understand even if you have a 1000 watt amplifier it will work with the stock alternator it just wont get that loud without trying rob power from lights, battery recharge etc. So we need an efficient amp and high sensitivity speakers that can play louder on less wattage. And all of this shouldn't cost a lot or take up too much space. And while you dont need an old school EQ you asked about it so that's a part of this solution.

I owned this Clarion EQ in another car and had this setup - more or less. Put this under you dash. Connect you the speaker wires from your stock headunit to the Hi-level inputs on this eq. This will be your main input. Then use this Bluetooth receiver and mount it behind/under you dash and connect the 2 RCAs to the AUX IN rca inputs of the EQ. This will be you aux music source which is your phone. Then use this small (4"X6") MB Quart amp that should also fit under your dash. You will need 2 sets of RCAs - Front and rear - that will connect from the EQ to the amplifier. From your amplifier you will connect speaker wires to the front speakers. This Infinity reference 3.5 are good. You will need to cut a piece of paneling do adapt these 2 speakers to the single dash speaker hole. I've used them throughout the years. For the rear speakers try these 6X9s. When you turn on you stock headunit the EQ will turn on automatically and so will the amp. You can adjust the high and lows with the EQ knobs and can use the fader to balance front to rear. With the settings on the amp you can limit the bass getting to your dash speakers that they were not designed to play. For the Bluetooth you will pair your phone with the Bluetooth receiver ahead of time and when you start up the car the next time it will connect. To play phone music you press the Aux button on the EQ to switch to the BT receiver source. To control the volume you can use your phone or the volume knob on the EQ. And if you wanted a sub you could get a second amp and connect and control that too to the EQ.

And if you want a more expensive amp that is reviewed well and has a brand name try this kenwood

You can go cheaper than what I described and for example if you don't care about getting music from your stock HU there are other options that make more sense. But this combo will give good sound at a modest price and allow both phone and stock HU to function. The EQ does double duty. It lets you change the HI-Lows and combines the 2 sources. The amp should have its own wire to the battery - or starter stud, maybe starter relay. I used to do more of this but newer cars are pretty complicated. I'm looking forward to doing my fury and will replace the EQ with something more flexible, add 4 dash speakers, kick panel speakers (PO already cut holes) and 2 amps - bigger than the one I suggested. Have a good rest of your weekend all. mike
I am using that same bluetooth kenwood in my '65
 
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