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Yes I would get the stealths but the dollar and the worry of them getting dropped or tossed around during shipping and the brokerage that fedex will rape me with made me want to look elsewhere. I cant go over the border, ever. so thats not a option

I read the "sold in pairs" and jumped to conclusions. Good eye

Sorry I didnt give the details. I live 50 miles from this place. Its a canadian company. its the price difference from 2018 and 2024 I am in Canada. Nothing like paying $1250 extra for a $999 part. plus tax

Thats insanity

I'm a manic so it will be living over 3000 but yes I plan on gears and a stall but I have a coarse input and old style flexplate pattern so its not that easy. I'll need everything and hopefully the hole in the crank is big enough

yes I watched them all. the weakie 383 and this one where he mentions 400hp with 906 heads and the 21-223-4 268 cam

I messaged the shop about my 516 heads and what valves he is gonna use. (I thought ferrea) He said: iron heads i would use an SBI or a SI replacement valve Am I wasting my time and money here? I'm really sick of Chinese junk, is that what these brands are? thanks

I would guess rubber. I heard the side seals are not availible anymore.

I'm wondering what pushrods I would need. I will be using stock heads and rockers. With the newer 68 and up lifters, I know I need a ball on each end but does the comp cam have a lower base circle?

I was thinking this too. I was thinking the next step down the 21-223-4 Nick had 400hp with that cam with 906 heads. I would expect the shop will blend the bowl after putting 1.74 in. Should I be looking for 452's? I'd like to keep that closed chamber. If I could get 374 to 400 I'd be happy. Is...

It does but its a rope seal. I see guys using pipe cleaners and silicone. The original plastic pieces fit tight. It seems like the factory used contact cement and maybe this? I do watch nick and he had that leaky 383 nightmare. I want to avoid that at all costs. I think he got a new crank to...

looks like mine has the 67 style

try soaking in white vinegar. I'd say fill it half way then after a few days to a week, flip it over. You'd be surprised how good it cleans

I am starting to stress out about how to do the rear seal. The crank still has the knurling untouched. The seal plate had these plastic inserts that look like they are in good shape. Should I reuse them? Does anyone know what the black glue was they used at the factory? It looks like they used...

The duplicolor industrial red is next and this was spraying horribly. The tip would not come out so I could not change it. It sprayed like chain lube. Gonna be alot of runs but this isnt a beauty contest, I just what to get something on it before it rusts. As my fore-fathers would say, "good...

Well on with the primer and paint. proform 654 primer was what I was told on the tins and block

This camera doesnt seem to like to play with this light or something. I see some lint and I think the shop coated the surface a bit. I will wipe it down with acetone I guess on build day. does it look ok? hopefully its a good enough surface for steel shims like the factory gaskets?

I am leaning heavily towards building the 516 heads. If places would broker this stuff it wouldn't be so bad but leaving it up to fedex I'm gonna get my a$$ handed to me. As much as I want some hot heads, I dont think in my case I'm gonna get to see the benefit. Its a tough decision. If it was...

yes he true'd the deck and it was about 10. the light was playing games I'll post some pics in a bit, just in the middle of painting