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I've had a couple motors over the years that were just hopeless. Everything looked perfectly normal inside, but they would quickly get very hot, even running them with no load. Jeff

Yes, that's it. You may want to try cleaning the contacts first with a very thin file or piece of sandpaper to see if that solves your problem. The "nuclear" option is to just solder them together. Another issue that I've been seeing a lot of lately is high resistance where electrical parts...

Some electric motors have a bimetalic thermal protector in them which can get too sensitive over time. I've had to solder the contacts closed to get the motor working again. Jeff

Not exactly sure how those work. It appears that there's no battery power required. Brown goes to coil negative. Black to chassis ground. Gray is power for the light bulb. Jeff

Did they ever work since you have owned the car? It's unusual for all the bulbs to be burned out, unless the voltage regulator failed at some point in the past and fried all the bulbs by spiking up to 20 volts or so. I have seen this happen a few times over the years. Jeff

Marty must have shut down his website. He's been trying to retire for some time now. Doesn't matter anyway, since he sold those some years ago. Jeff

I've found that it's a bad idea to use any type of insulated crimp terminal. On jobs that matter I now use only the unisulated terminals, crimped and soldered, then I add a bit of shrink tubing over the joint unless it's a ground connection. For connectors I bought a decent sized Weather-Pak...

If you're currently shopping for ignition stuff, I'd recommend staying away from MSD. I'm currently fighting with an MSD system on a customer's car that was installed by his brother, and it's had multiple part failures in less than a few hundred miles. Much of what they sell is made in China...

Compared to some of the other Chryslers, it's not too bad to get the cluster out if I'm remembering correctly. My '66 had a tilt column, so I don't know if that would have made things a bit easier. While I had mine out, I also wired up the green turn indicators in the cluster so that they...

Hi Tim, I too have always thought that the cold light was a really neat feature. The '69 and up cars are a bummer in that the lens is no longer green. It's black with "COLD" in a washed out, barely green lettering. The number one suspect for your problem would be the pins on the back of the...

Long, long ago, I managed to remove the rear regulators from my '66 New Yorker coupe without messing with the window tracks. I'm not sure if the fast tops are more difficult than the standard coupes. I think Chrysler wants you to pop the clips off of the rollers to get them out. I think you...

Although the 1965 bulkhead is quite a bit more robust than the '66 and up, the system still isn't immune from trouble. I think it's wise to keep the high charging current from the alternator on the shortest path possible on it's way to the battery. I would make sure to have a fusible link on...

Sounds like you either have a bulkhead connector that's in the process of burning up, or a failed ammeter. The horn works because in '66 the horn relay takes it's power right off of the starter relay. Everything else goes through the ammeter. It's time for the MAD bulkhead bypass...

For troubleshooting, you could simply hook a voltmeter into the positive feed for the radio and keep an eye on the voltage when it fades out. Most likely the problem is in the radio with the Germanium transitors. That type of transistor is no longer available and you can't simply substitute a...

The service manual isn't all that clear on removing the tailgate. Looks like after removing the bumper you unbolt the upper hinge plate from the body of the car, then unbolt the lower hinge. The tailgate would have to be open to access the upper, and it's probably in the closed position when...

I just solder the points closed when I come across one of those bimetallic circuit breakers that's failed in the open position. Those are for cars that have kids in them that will play around and hold the switch in one position for minutes to see what happens. Jeff

Yes. Looks pretty standard. They just decided to use red and dark blue for the grounds for some odd reason. I did find it a bit surprising that they used separate ground wires up to 1973. I believe they started grounding the speakers to the body in 1974. I know that our '78 NYB with the...

The black wires to the front speakers are ground. The speakers ground through the radio. Green and violet are positive. I'd have to see the rest of the diagram to figure out what's going on with the wiring to the rear speakers. Seems odd that there are 4 colors going to the rear and none of...

I don't know if you'll find anyone who knows exactly what the Cletron box does, but I think CBODY67 is pretty close. With three speakers in the dash, I'll have to assume you have a right channel, a left channel, and the center speaker is mixed mono. The Cletron may be responsible for pulling...

Can't believe that car has a 2 speed wiper motor. That means it was ordered without the "basic" group, which most dealers put on just about every car on the lot. What's essentially a triple white car, or at least as close to it as you could get on a non-Imperial in '73 is quite unusual too...