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After some more searching, it's hard to believe that I don't have some of those hood bars laying around somewhere. I took a look at the parts manual, and the roller was only available with the bar as an assembly. That makes it very likely that the end of the bar was swaged or crimped to keep...

No dice last night on the bars. I have one more place that I can look on Wednesday. I'm 95% sure that I have them somewhere. Jeff

I took a look last night and couldn't see anything since the roller is up against the track bracket. I may have a loose torsion bar in my parts collection that I can look at. I'll see if I can find it tonight when I get home. Jeff

I'll try to remember to take a look at one tomorrow to confirm for sure. Jeff

I think they're held on by one of these...

Maaco is one of the few places that I know of that will paint a car that's been prepped by the owner. I've seen some pretty nice jobs done this way, but you have to find the right location and make sure the right guy does the job. The Maaco in Montgomeryville, PA. is supposed to be a good...

Chrysler took a page out of the GM design book on that one. GM loved to make you remove the right side wheelhouse to get to HVAC parts going back to the early 1960's, even on cars that only had a heater. I've got the wheelhouse out of a 1963 Impala at work right now to get access to the A/C...

Hi Julian, I don't think that it's supposed to have the yellow tint. After seeing such a high percentage of flawed NOS parts, I've come up with a theory that many non-mechanical factory replacement parts are ones that failed quality control inspection and deemed not good enough to go on a...

Also, I really don't think there are any "structural" concerns. The roof skin isn't structural on these cars. There's a very thick structural skeleton that runs around the perimeter of the roof and down behind the C pillars, and you don't have nearly enough rust where I would be worried about...

Considering the size of some of the holes, I think the best plan would be to use fiberglass cloth to cover them up. You can get a small kit at any auto parts store that will come with resin, hardener, and some cloth. This will give you the thinnest "covering" over the holes, and it's pretty...

This stuff is the bees knees for detail work on the dash: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Silver-Molotow-Liquid-Chrome---2mm/p/80858456 Really looks close to the factory chrome trim, though I don't know if it will eventually start to oxidize and get...

That's a very common rust area on slab sides. Seeing that you are in the northwest, it was most likely caused by acidic pine needles collecting in that area of the cowl. I would not consider it a structural issue. I would cut it out and patch it to stop it from progressing further. Jeff

The original Chrysler seal is pretty robust. The most common failure is the sealer between the gasket and the glass or the sealer between the gasket and the body. The slab sides usually don't rust bad around the windshield, unless someone has been in there before and gouged up the paint, or if...

Use Tiger Hair or Kitty Hair or All Metal, but not just regular plastic filler. Jeff

Quarter bulges in the circled areas are not unusual for these cars. Since your bulge is centered over the wheel, it's most likely warped from someone welding in a patch. Here's part of an article about it from Collectible Automobile: Jeff

Problems with the sheet metal around the fast top rear wheel openings are fairly common. It's a complicated panel and the scrapage rate for defective stampings was very high. Some bad panels made it through the system and onto cars. Jeff

I'll check into it as soon as I can. Might be a little while, since things are pretty busy for me right now. Jeff

I should be able to get you dimensions for where to drill the holes. There are two different roof racks. Which one do you have? Jeff

No I don't. I sold them to 67 ragtop. It's possible that I might be able to dig up another set, but I probably won't be able to look for them till Sunday. Jeff

In my opinion, base/clear is a waste of money and time on a solid color, especially white. Not using base/clear for a metallic would be crazy, unless you are really going for an original look to the car and want to get as close as possible to how it left the factory. Jeff