Search results for query: *

Those photos have been on b bodies only also

I have a pair of early heads and they have 1.95" intake valves, odd looking. No bolt holes on end of heads. I believe they are from a 1959 383, but not absolute.

Time delay relay for the factory A/C system. A mysterious device, It's in the manual.

Roll Tide? Warning, maybe don't play this with sensitive ears in the room.

what a lucky find on this car and the paperwork. Four door just makes it better!

Next question, do you want 4 bolt valve covers as original? The don't have cast in rocker pedestals. Or do you not mind 6 bolt valve covers? Mid 1963 was the change. And remember you need to have the bolt holes on the end of the passenger head for the alternator bracket. So 1960 and older...

Neat car, they made many of the long ram 4 doors, it was an optional engine. I wouldn't want open chamber heads on that engine. I would use the fairly common 516 heads and leave the 1.60 exhaust valves. Because that is what the combination is and it is small cubic inches.

Steel head gaskets seal just fine put on dry, but the paint won't hurt. Yes use the thin gasket. And if you replace pistons don't get 8:1 compression, it will make it more of a dog than it is now.

Tire code is 2 digits in 68. 3 digits in 67 and the last number is how many and it's usually 5, sometimes. They have a 4

The lone 5 next to the 83 is automatic transmission.

I think way back 50-60 years ago they did raise the car. In the last 20 years they are not very strong springs, you can move the springs up by hand. And we are not very strong compared to the weight of a car.

I've tried them with saggy rear springs and it didn't change the height at all. None

1969 and up. Not for a 68

Where do you live

Yes the 1962 carb linkage is a solid rod and it pushes forward. So you would need to get an original AFB from the era. I'd leave the 1.60 exhaust valves in a 361. Definatly a different camshaft. Compression ratio in the mid 9's would good. Need to check out the rear end gear ratio, a 3.23...

Looks like a great start to some fun. Good color too. Welcome.

DMT is great, we are lucky to have his products!

Cooler pressure is quoted as 5-30psi in the shop manual. It will leak immediately on start up so don't go drive, it will just spread all over in bigger area. Clean and wrap the line with a paper towel and the leak will show itself quickly.

Make sure there is lube in the steering box, some say 90wt, some say fill with grease. Lube the fittings in the steering linkage. Jack it up and cycle the steering, is there a stiff part in the system? The idler arm has a replaceable bushing. Maybe it's bound up? Less caster makes it easier...

Swap front tires side to side and see if it changes the pull.