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the original magnum 500's were 14 inch and won't work with discs...newer reproduction ones come in 15's so this might limit the ability to find used ones....5 on 4 1/2, which i'm sure is what you meant to type

is that in an area where the bumper jack would have hooked on? maybe some paint transfer off a grey hook?

the problem I ran into was that most of the available pistons wound up with under 8-1 or over 10-1...for a mild factory air automatic barge I wanted to stay around 9-1...(cue the "my 11-1 motor runs great on regular" crowd)...I used the dished ICON's, but those only come with the .990 big block...

i'd try to check with manufacturer to see exactly what the difference between std and hd...if they both have the same arch and leaf thickness, and the only difference is one extra leaf I'd go with the HD and if you don't like the ride you could just remove a leaf...(one of the long ones,not the...

considering it will probably run you a grand per bumper to re-do them I'd be inclined to ignore them...of course without pics we really have no idea what the problem areas look like...when you say rub them out are you talking about by hand or machine?

I feel your pain...I THINK I can get the r/s valve cover off but i'm not positive...so I still haven't charged the system till i'm sure the covers don't leak

were the lights still on when you came out of the event? or was everything completely dead? if there was any juice left in the battery the alternator should be more than capable of keeping everything running for the ride home...I really think you're dealing with more than one issue...you really...

think cruisin moon is the one that's actually making the lenses...got mine from them 20+ years ago at mopar carlisle and they're still fine

no idea what year you car is, but just like doing a factory electronic conversion a stable voltage supply would come from an electronic regulator instead of a points style one...as far as an agm battery the main advantage is they are "sealed" and don't have liquid acid in them and so are less...

did it destroy the threads on the pinion or just tear the threads out of the nut and leave that metal in the pinion threads? i would think the steel alloy of the pinion would be a lot harder than the nut and would hopefully survive...

ouch...you were probably trying to line up the marks a full turn tighter

the new pinion seal I installed 2 yrs ago was a rawhide one (NAPA? Rockauto? don't remember) and it still dripped a bit...when I installed the Sure Grip I used a rubber one from Dr Diff an it's been dry so far...iirc the earlier end play spec was looser than the later one so I picked a number...

Cooler Classics has original style ones in their Ebay store.... there are other refrigerants out there that guys talk about (usually from Canada...possibly propane based?) that may require less conversion work than 134...thankfully I can still get R12 so I've never had to deal with any other stuff

think I recently read that Lunati had been absorbed by Comp Cams...

guess you answered your own question....yes a 160 themostat will open a lot sooner than a 195...now the next question is "why did it have a 160 ?" many times folks will put in a lower temp thermostat in an attempt to "cure" an overheating issue caused by something else...so you may have an...

went through a similar deal while chasing an overheating problem on my 454 chevy camper....every FLAPS thermostat in a different box was a Motorad...I removed a good new one while troubleshooting and wound up installing a new defective one, the third one worked...boiled them together to find...

my dad had a 62 Ford wagon...390 3 on the tree...back then a lot of folks just didn't trust an automatic for towing

I agree with fusible link...if thats ok get your testlight...check that the large red and black wires that go into and out of the bulkhead connector on the firewall have continuity through it and nothing's melted...then check in and out of the ammeter terminals, and in and out of the ignition switch

he's got some stuff that fits C bodies that he doesn't have listed as such, so having a part number ahead of time is useful...

think the white classic ones were the smaller ones for the A body...not wide enough...Quirey Quality designs in Pa has them listed in their Gary Goers catalog (pdf page 24) but idk if they actually have them in stock