Search results for query: *

Remade the pedestal. Quite the task making something out of nothing. Hopefully all the measurements and guesswork pays off. Still a little finishing work to do, as well as weld on the captured nuts and fill in the drilled out spot welds.

I'll take a sun-baked car over a rusty one any day of the week. This thing is giving me nightmares as well.

Patched this panel. Going to soak it in some DIY "evapo rust" to get rid of all the rust. Started as this: During: After: Compared to this mess, I feel that was the easy part.

Today's after-work progress: Stripped this mess off the car. The floor patch was laid over top of the old crap. It's a bit soft above the patch, so I'm going to bridge the gap with some new metal. Also got to replace half of this crap. Should be fun. At least the other side is good...

So, the floor has definitely been patched in places. Most of it is still original, though. Not the greatest patches, but certainly not the worst I've ever seen. At least they're welded to solid steel. The original metal above the initial patch is soft, so I'm going to patch that while I'm at...

I haven't confirmed, but visually, they appear to locate it in a different spot. I made a jig to locate the '66 mounts correctly once I remove them from the old stub. Up until a few days ago, I was hoping that was going to be the hardest part of this project. Oh, how I miss the good ol' days.

Yes, the Canadian cars used Plymouth stubs. The only stumbling block in my way is the stub I sourced is for a '65. Other than the engine mounts, there aren't any major differences.

I'm strongly considering replacing everything in that area. Like an onion, the more layers I peel back, the worse it gets. I've sourced a mint floor and cowl, so I think it'll be better in the long run to have proper, factory steel in place. I won't make a final call until I pull the interior...

Not alot. The seller's package only went as far back as 1972. However, it seems to have been a local car it's entire life, as far back as '72, at least. It had a 400 and 727 out of a '73 or '74 C body installed at some point in it's life. The guy I bought it from didn't know anything about cars...

But wait- - there's more! I can tell at least two pros worked on this previously, as this repair was held together with scraps of sheet metal, self tappers, tar, AND hopes & prayers. It's rather disturbing to think this was all that was holding this car together. The rest of the car appears...

This frame is K-R-U-ST-Y! I'm in love with these expert level repairs held together with booger welds and hope.

Passenger Side: Everything seems to be far nicer on this side. Only rust prevention needed.

More pics of the underbody: Driver's side Trans tunnel, driver's side I would have naturally preferred less corrosion, but all in all, it looks pretty minimal.

Similar to what mine looks like. I had to cut one of those strut bolts out unfortunately, as the captured nut inside separated from the inside. The other one came out fine. Can of worms opened.

Talk about your 1st rate s**t show. But. It's free. Just about every bolt on the driver side had to be cut out. The only one that didn't was the vertical bolt accessed in the cab. The floors have been patched in the past, and the previous guy patched right over the access holes. So new holes...

Did you have to remove the seat to get to those top 2 bolts?

Blind lady. I like that. I'm definitely rerouting the wires when everything goes back together. I prioritized enjoying the car before and only cared that it was running and driving. The spaghetti factory has been eating away at me.

This portion is fortunately not the transmission cross member. The cross member is in decent shape. This is the portion next to the rocker panel. I have been soaking them for awhile, to no avail. I will likely cut the heads off the bolts, after further reflection.

Nobody said this was going to be easy... It would appear as though rust has fused the frame and the body together on the driver's side. Those rear bolts aren't going to budge easily. I'm thinking I may need to remove the torsion bars and cut that part of the frame apart from the body. Should be...

Thanks for the advice. It lines up with the plans I had, so thanks for confirming I'm on the right track. And yes, I am swapping stubs. In fact, the stub that's going in used to belong to you.