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I love them too! I have a set of MP valve covers on mine but have always dug the M/T valve covers.

You can also buy ACC carpet through Rock Auto, that’s where I picked up mine last year for my Fury when I redid the interior.

A mild cam, intake and carb on a 440 will make 400 hp without any issues. Without a stroker kit or aftermarket cylinder heads, the jump to 500 hp is going to require porting the factory heads and probably more camshaft and a looser converter than most people would want in a C-body. You trade...

Agree with everyone, figure out how much you want to spend, what your goals are, and what you want to reuse from the current engine. If it's a good running 440 that doesn't need a rebuild right now, I'd swap the camshaft and put a set of closed chamber heads on it. You can also mill the heads...

How much work has it been to put the 46RH in there? The trans tunnel and subframe crossmember doesn't seem like it lends itself to trans swaps in our cars.

Big blocks you have to jack the motor up a couple inches to get the pan off, but it’s really not a bad job either.

I bought a TS switch from Rock Auto for my '68 a couple years ago and the arm fit fine, it didn't have a mismatch like yours. It looks to be a different part number than the '66 switch though. Bummer, but if the second one comes and it's identical, it shouldn't be too bad to add in a channel...

Completely agree, I wouldn't start it again until you've tried priming the engine with a drill to verify the oil pump is functioning. It could've broken the oil pump driveshaft or done something else silly. Then check for all of the lifters and pushrods being in place. Another random one...

I put a Dana in my '68, what swayed me from the 9" to Dana was if I went with the 9" I would've needed a new driveshaft. The Dana's snout was close enough that I was able to get my original 3.5" driveshaft cut down. The aftermarket definitely favors the 9" though, and starting from scratch...

My '67 Imperial had one in the underhood location, was originally a California car. My 68 '300, '68 Charger, and '68 Fury didn't have them, I also didn't know they originally were in the glovebox on '68's though. None of them had glovebox liners!

The only C body full length big block headers I’m aware of are either TTI or Hooker. You can get them from TTI ceramic coated, but not in stainless. There might be block hugger headers available in stainless though.

Sounds good, thank you!!

I'm definitely interested, would need to weld a sump on it so I can go with an external pump. I'm in the Detroit area though, could you give me a price on shipping it to 48170? Alternatively if you can hold onto it for a bit, I drive to and from Milwaukee a couple times a year and could grab...

Those mounts are high and mighty for sure!!

That makes sense, thank you!

There is a chart on a bunch of different sites that show the rear axle width changed from 69 to 70 for C bodies but I don't know how accurate it is. I know for sure the 65-68 C body rearend is 56 3/4" and 46" perch to perch, which is almost identical to the 70-74 E body rearend. The chart...

In addition to changing the mufflers, I’d also suggest putting in some type of dynamat- there are lots of options for it now. I went from 3.5” with 2 chamber Flowmasters and dumps, to a 3” TTI system with tailpipes, Flowmaster 40 series Delta Flows, and added dynamat to the floor when the...

That's definitely where it went, lol. I think it was Yukon axles, 4.10 gear, 1350 yoke, and a conventional clutch type sure grip. I still remember when it showed up on a pallet at Roush!

I've bought two Dana 60's from Dr. Diff, one was a cut down truck housing when he was still offering those, that one had mostly Yukon parts in it. The more recent one was a Strange S60. Both transactions were great, definitely recommend him! That being said I am surprised he is out of stock...

I think I saw that same car in 2014 on vacation, was driving from Detroit to Florida.